UKC

Trad shoes

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 Sefapla 09 Jun 2021

Any good recommendations for a trad shoe that’s comfy enough to spend a full day in on multi pitch

 C Witter 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

If they fit, the Unparallel UP are great. They're well-made, flat, stiff shoes - good for edging and smearing, but comfortable because you don't need to have your big toe knuckled for them to perform. Try one whole UK size down from your street size, e.g. UK 10 down to UK 9. Quite pricey, unfortunately, but they seem like they'll last better than some other similar shoes (someone on here described 5.10 shoes as 'made from tissue paper and kitten tears', and I'm increasingly in agreement...).

 brianjcooper 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

I like my Red Chili Spirit VCR shoes.

But as others are sure to say, and I generally agreed, the ones that fit. Try on lots. 

 Jackspratt 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

anasazi pinks, loads on sale now that they have brought out their NIAD range. sizing wise, I got an 8.5 and I'm a 9/9.5 street shoe.

Absolutely brilliant shoe.

 More-On 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

If Scarpa fit then look at the Maestro Mid.

Stiffer than the Maestro and super comfy (for me at least, during my low grade bumbling...)

 John R 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla: For pure comfort I’ve found Boreal Silex hard to beat. They seem to be available at a good price too at the moment. They certainly aren’t a toe-crushing high performance shoe, but they have remained comfortable for all-day UK use, and even extended use in Spain without ever holding me back.

 marky 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:Scarpa Vapour V Velcro’s are a good compromise between comfort and performance.

 Lhod 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

One that fits your foot shape well (different answer for everyone), isn't too aggressive and probably a half size up from what you'd choose for a performance shoe

In reply to Sefapla:

Mythos for me, for everything until the point that they become too bendy for the holds that need using. Which is virtually never, because I don't often climb trad on rock types that feature tiny edges. Obviously they need to fit your foot, first and foremost, but if they do that then they are exceptionally comfortable while also being exceptionally sensitive. Like climbing barefoot - but less painful or questionable.

(Don't upsize in them though, because they stretch like you wouldn't believe)

 Cobra_Head 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

All of my shoes are a size up from my street shoes.

Red Chili comfort zones are OK, steer clear of Jokers, the name says it all (very unpredictable)

I'm using three pairs of 13 year old Mad Rock Frenzy's which are on their 3rd or 4th resoling, but since these are no longer available I can't recommend them.

 mrphilipoldham 09 Jun 2021
In reply to Cobra_Head:

I was going to suggest Jokers having been my only climbing shoe for the last 5 pairs. Any reason why you find them unpredictable?! Don’t think I’ve ever thought to myself ‘I wish I were wearing a better pair of shoes right now..’

 misterb 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Sefapla:

Lasportiva finale is a good flat shoe , loads of rubber as well (5mm sole)

 Cobra_Head 10 Jun 2021
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

I had them slip, off quite substantial holds, but then stick on marginal stuff, my mate found the same. They'd stick where you thought they might not, but then slip on stuff you wouldn't dream they could, very strange.

They make for interesting climbing, I've been looking for a replacement for my Mad Rocks (C4) since I'm not sure how many resoles a shoe can actually take. Jokers aren't the ones for me.

In reply to Cobra_Head:

> I had them slip, off quite substantial holds, but then stick on marginal stuff, my mate found the same. They'd stick where you thought they might not, but then slip on stuff you wouldn't dream they could, very strange.

Maybe that's why they're called Jokers? 

In reply to Jackspratt:

> anasazi pinks, loads on sale now that they have brought out their NIAD range. sizing wise, I got an 8.5 and I'm a 9/9.5 street shoe.

> Absolutely brilliant shoe.


I agree that they're an absolutely brilliant shoe, however I'm really struggling to find any for sale.

Any help would be appreciated.

In reply to Skip:

Outside were selling Pinks at £77.50, no idea if they've got any stock left.

It would be interesting to hear if the NIAD lace up is actually an improvement on the Pinks - from someone with no connections to Adidas.

In reply to Michael Hood:

> It would be interesting to hear if the NIAD lace up is actually an improvement on the Pinks - from someone with no connections to Adidas.

I nearly bought a pair of NIAD lace up.

I take an 11 in Pinks, I could barely get an 11 in the NIADs on. I tried a 12 and they were also too small.

 Cobra_Head 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Maybe that's why they're called Jokers? 


This is the consensus in our club, I know three people who have bought them, all climbing in different shoes.

I might dig then out again, just for fun.

In reply to Sefapla:

Have found TC Pros, Miuras and Ansazi Pinks all comfortable enough to wear on multipitch climbs.

 Jon Read 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Skip:

> I agree that they're an absolutely brilliant shoe, however I'm really struggling to find any for sale.

> Any help would be appreciated.

You have tried Adidas? https://www.adidas.co.uk/five-ten-climbing-anasazi-lace-shoes/BC0889.html

 Jackspratt 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Skip:

ellis brigham and v12 outdoor

In reply to Jackspratt:

Cheers

In reply to Skip:

> I take an 11 in Pinks, I could barely get an 11 in the NIADs on. I tried a 12 and they were also too small.

That's interesting because I thought 5.10 since being bought by Adidas had moved to rock shoe sizing being as close to street sizing as possible.

I bought 11.5 & 12 Pinks (because my street shoe size is 12 but my old Blancos are 11.5) - decided to not have the extra pain; kept the 12's, took the 11.5's back. Still in the box, waiting for the Blancos to get to the needing a resole stage.


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