UKC

UK pendulum routes?

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 Baron Weasel 06 Apr 2021

I've always liked the idea of doing a pendulum like the king swing on the nose of el cap. The description for the stack of old wick describes a pendulum to access the climbing. Are there any more examples of pendulum's in the UK?

 Kevster 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

I have vague memories of something on the Isle of Wight having a description of a pendulum, maybe the big traverse. Whatever it is, being where it is will take a certain "taste" to be acquired first, and I suspect some fertiliser in yer pants prior to taking on the challenge - 'cos mine definitely wouldn't be big enough.

 Doug 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Does Spiders Web on Gogarth fit the bill ?

 John2 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

White Slab on Cloggy?

 Rick Graham 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

King swing at malham.

There used to be a pendule on the girdle of lower falcon .King Swing (A2) Falcon Crag

 Baron Weasel 06 Apr 2021
In reply to Rick Graham:

King swing looks just the ticket, I'll dig out my aiders!

 overdrawnboy 06 Apr 2021
 Michael Gordon 07 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Hammer (HVS 5b) used to be done with a pendulum to pass the crux. Though, not dramatic at all since it's just a 3m traverse on a slab. 

 alan moore 07 Apr 2021
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Hammer (HVS 5b) used to be done with a pendulum to pass the crux. 

I called it a tension-traverse when I did it.  Much more respectable...

 nniff 07 Apr 2021
In reply to alan moore:

> I called it a tension-traverse when I did it.  Much more respectable...

It becomes a pendulum when you fall off your traverse, with or without tension....

 johncook 07 Apr 2021
In reply to nniff:

Hence Pendulum HVS 5a at Stoney. Fluff a move and the result will entertain the onlookers for quite a few moments!

In reply to Michael Gordon:

What's that thing with a couple of neat little moves under a roof at Tremadog? That used to be done with a swing.

Pincushion, a spot of research tells me.

jcm

 petegunn 07 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Might be a very small one on Swinging Free (E2 5b) at Eavestone that you could do.

 Martin Hore 08 Apr 2021
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Second votes for Llithrig on Cloggy, which I've only done once a long time ago, and for White Slab, which I've done several times, taking up to 20 goes to lasso the spike (!). Harder folk than me will do both free of course, but the swings are quite character building.

Martin

In reply to Baron Weasel:

The Vixen's Embrace (VS) at Fox Promontory - an entertaining girdle with an equally entertaining pendulum

 Al Randall 09 Apr 2021
In reply to Martin Hore:

SPOILER ALERT:  The secret with the "lasso" on White Slab is not to attempt to lasso it at all.  Instead it is better to throw  a handful of several coils at the spike, which is admittedly very small. I've done it both ways but the small pendule is more in keeping with the history and tradition of the route and makes the route more interesting IMO.

With regard to the OP I don't know of anywhere in England or Wales that has the scale to accommodate a true pendulum along similar lines to those in Yosemite.  I would however have thought that it would be possible to "manufacture" one on a crag like Cloggy by stringing together a few routes and creating links.

Al

In reply to Baron Weasel:

The 1st pitch of Traverse of the Gods, Swanage has a pendulum/ab from a prow at the end. I think it can done free.

In reply to Martin Hore:

The weird thing about the White Slab lasso is that, while the lasso is more or less impossible, climbing across is easier than quite a bit of the rest of the route.

jcm


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