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UK tech 7c exists in the UK?

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 meggies 05 Jan 2021

Total Lockdown pub talk to alleviate boredom - is UK tech 7c now a thing in the UK?

Guess we're talking bouldering here.

Personally, I quite enjoyed the days of UK 7a being a 21st Century version of Scottish VS - i.e., nothing can possibly be harder, ha ha!

 deacondeacon 05 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

We'll it'll definitely exist. Wether it's been climbed or not is the better question😉

 Alex1 05 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

If it does exist anyone capable of climbing it won't be bothering with the UK tech system

 PaulJepson 05 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

Does anyone still use UK tech grades for anything other than trad? Even when talking about cruxes in hard trad people seem to use Font or V grades to describe the difficulties. 

 ianstevens 05 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

7a??? Even that’s inflation enough. Everything is 6c and should be no higher.

Font 7A = 6c

Font 9A = 6c

 deacondeacon 05 Jan 2021
In reply to Alex1:

> If it does exist anyone capable of climbing it won't be bothering with the UK tech system

Exactly! When English 7a is anything from F7B To 8C (basically anything from competent punter level to world class elite level) it's about as much use as Anne Frank's drumkit. 

 petegunn 05 Jan 2021
In reply to deacondeacon:

All problems on the Bowder Stone are 6c arn't they ; )

In reply to deacondeacon:

> Exactly! When English 7a is anything from F7B To 8C (basically anything from competent punter level to world class elite level) it's about as much use as Anne Frank's drumkit. 


I wonder what Welsh 7a is in bouldering grades then?

In reply to deacondeacon:

> We'll it'll definitely exist. Wether it's been climbed or not is the better question😉


Anything exists theoretically, it only actually exists when it is realised.

 Philoosh 06 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

Isn't the sandstone around Tunbridge all graded in tech ?

 deacondeacon 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Philoosh:

Yep, and it doesn't work at the higher grades so routes get a supplementary (usually Font) grade. 

 GrahamD 06 Jan 2021
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Yep, and it doesn't work at the higher grades so routes get a supplementary (usually Font) grade. 

To be fair, given the wear and tear it doesn't seem to work sub 5a either !

 Sputnick 06 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

6c foothold?? On grit.   Ie   nothing viable 

7a... 3 connecting ones.  

Angels share...

It convinced me 7a exists

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Sputnick:

Still 6c, no such thing as 7a... unless you're saying its font 10?

 Enty 06 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

What would the trad grade for Partheon Shot be if the last two moves were The Ace?

E

 Sputnick 06 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

My thing was. Nothing can be harder than a 6c smear. As it's the absolute limit of friction. 

3 consecutive moves must be harder. 

The font thing isn't important to me. 

 Sl@te Head 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Sputnick:

Try  The Very Big and the Very Small (8b+) and see what you think...

 Sputnick 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Love J.D grit. 

Never ever climbed on slate..

Stone's too slippery for me 😁

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Enty:

> What would the trad grade for Partheon Shot be if the last two moves were The Ace?

> E

6

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Sputnick:

It’s a good comparison though, given that UK 6c spans 2 entire number grades which cover bang average to world class - showing what a fine inclusive grade the tech system is

 ianstevens 06 Jan 2021
In reply to Sputnick:

You’re missing out... the slate is better ;) 

In reply to ianstevens:

In what way is UK 6c "bang average" - I suspect that far less than 50% of climbers have ever done a 6c technical move.

And the problem with the tech grades up there was that the people doing the new climbs and setting the technical grades abused it by compressing loads into it.

Post edited at 22:26
 Sputnick 06 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

I know a guy who could do a foot less 1 arm dyno, reaching 19 inch.......... uphill

How would you grade that...

 Jimbo C 06 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

In Hard Grit, didn't Ben Moon say that Smiling Butress has a 7b, maybe even 7c move on it. 

In reply to meggies:

I never did understand the idea of tech 6b overlapping with tech 6c. Put them end to end and 7a should be good for at least v20

 ianstevens 07 Jan 2021
In reply to Michael Hood:

> In what way is UK 6c "bang average" - I suspect that far less than 50% of climbers have ever done a 6c technical move.

> And the problem with the tech grades up there was that the people doing the new climbs and setting the technical grades abused it by compressing loads into it.

Maybe I roll in the "wrong" circles, but in my mind Font 7A (i.e. the bottom end of 6c tech) does not place you a long way up the skill spectrum. 

 stp 07 Jan 2021
In reply to meggies:

I think Hubble was graded E10 7b and widely regarded as the crux being about 8B or 8B+ font.

There are still very few 8C's here which would be the step up. Though if we try to keep the spaces between the grades consistent then maybe 7c might not be reached until about font 9B?

 Michael Gordon 07 Jan 2021
In reply to ianstevens:

> Maybe I roll in the "wrong" circles, but in my mind Font 7A (i.e. the bottom end of 6c tech) does not place you a long way up the skill spectrum. 

Everything is relative, but it's certainly a good way above average.  

In reply to Mark S Davies:

welsh 7a is 8a+


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