/ What is the name of this climb? Gogarth, gearing

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Roberttaylor 08 Aug 2019

A friend and I climbed a c20m crack just above the gearing up spot before the descent gully to Gogarth. Nice clean crack, hands to fists, about E1. I can't find it in any guidebooks, can anyone help me with a name?

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Dan Arkle 08 Aug 2019
In reply to Roberttaylor:

There have been threads about these before, do a search. Unclaimed and unnamed iirc, but definitely done before. 

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Roberttaylor 10 Aug 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle:

It just shows how much good rock there is in N. Wales. If that little outcrop were anywhere else that crack (and the others there looked good too!) would be a local classic; in Wales it isn't deemed worth a mention.

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Martin Haworth 10 Aug 2019
In reply to Roberttaylor:

I moderate the crag for UKC, so if you log it as a new climb on Gogarth I will approve it and put the first ascent as "traditional". I suggest "Gearing -up crack" as a suitable name.

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Chris Murray 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Roberttaylor:

Remember looking at the routes above the gearing up spot last year and wondering if they were logged. 

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Roberttaylor 11 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Cheers Martin, I'll do that. It'll save UKC seeing more threads like this in the future, if nothing else!

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pete johnson 12 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

This has been mentioned a number of times on ukc. It's been done numerous times, first ascensionists unknown. HVS if you like jamming otherwise E1. The arete next to it has been done too.

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Martin Haworth 12 Aug 2019
In reply to pete johnson:

Thank you for the feedback. It is logged without a Registered FA, listed as "traditional". I have suggested the name just based on the location. I will review the grade if it gets a few logged ascents.

Is the arête worth listing as well?

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Rick Graham 13 Aug 2019
In reply to pete johnson:

> This has been mentioned a number of times on ukc. It's been done numerous times, first ascensionists unknown. HVS if you like jamming otherwise E1. The arete next to it has been done too.

I am sure I have seen it written up as a side note in one of the Gogarth guides. 

Even vaguer memories of actually climbing it once. Nice looking crack , too good to miss .

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Andy Moles 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

While you're on it, I noticed that the buttress markers for Wen Zawn and Easter Island Gully appear in the wrong places.

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Martin Haworth 14 Aug 2019
In reply to Andy Moles:

I think I've got that sorted now if you want to check.

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Andy Moles 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Looks better. If you're feeling industrious, the guidebook does a weird thing with the order of routes at Easter Island - going left to right, the routes from Microdot (HVS 5a) to Sex Lobster (E3 5c) should appear before Supercrack (i.e. in the opposite order to how they appear now; Sex Lobster is the route immediately left of Supercrack). Without the guidebook to hand, I'm not sure where Watership Down fits in.

Also, the very last two routes listed (the Dream escape routes) are the same thing. I've done that many years ago too, and it is odd that it's not described as a route in the guidebook, as it's the most direct way back out from the slab at about VS, and pleasant enough. It will definitely have been climbed a long time ago though, I would just call it 'Wen Slab Escape Route' or something. As disappointing as that might be to those claiming an FA variant on the most popular sea cliff route in the world in 2019 ;)

Post edited at 08:23
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Andy Moles 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Another thing that should be flagged up is that Big Groove has suffered rockfall and is now apparently more like E4, though the rock and consensus hasn't yet settled. Possibly worth a separate entry in its new state, with the E3 original shown as no longer climbable.

Post edited at 09:16
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Andy Moles 15 Aug 2019

Thinking about my previous, maybe it's not worth having a separate entry for the climb in its new state, as Big Groove Direct already provides a better top pitch and might now become more the default line choice at consistent E4.

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Martin Haworth 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Andy Moles:

Sorted the "Wen Slab escape route", and transferred the logs to that route. (I do wonder if this route has a lot of common ground to the alternative pitch 1a of Dde).

Not done anything with the Easter Island Gully route re-ordering, this needs some thought. It could be because the starting point on the abseil approach is at Supercrack. I don't think its a problem as it is but I'll have another look when I have more time.

I can't edit Big Groove because it is in the Rockfax guide/app database, so all the descriptions are the Rockfax guidebook descriptions and are locked. I have added an update to the description but I can't change the grade. I don't want to mark it as not climbable because it is  climbable but at E4 (or possibly E5 according to a recent comment in the logs).

There are one or two esoteric existing routes missing, and there are some new routes that need putting in. Obviously not getting many ascents because no one has shouted about them. I'll look at these when time allows.

Thanks for the input and just shout if you spot anything else.

Post edited at 13:41
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Andy Moles 15 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

I actually climbed Big Groove Direct today (hence browsing it earlier) and would say that crux pitch of Big Groove is now E4 6a. It's bold, but not E5.

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Martin Haworth 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Andy Moles:

I've emailed the UKC to change the Rockfax grade to E4 6a

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bensilvestre 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

I've noticed in the past that Wen Zawn is missing some important routes. (It's a) Broad Church, Mister Softy. Think there's a few others.

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Martin Haworth 16 Aug 2019
In reply to bensilvestre:  I've added the ones you have mentioned.

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Andy Moles 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Martin Haworth:

While I'm on a Gogarth binge, some other things that have changed by apparent consensus (not all of which you are able to edit, I realise):

Barbarossa is E6.

Wastelands is E5.

Sex Lobster is not ***.

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Dan Arkle 16 Aug 2019
In reply to All:

Also, just a reminder that the Gogarth Wiki is still being updated and can be a useful resource. http://gogarth.wikifoundry.com/

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Martin Haworth 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Andy Moles:

Sorted

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Martin Haworth 16 Aug 2019
In reply to Dan Arkle: Wiki Gogarth is excellent. I consider it to be the go to reference text for all Gogarth route information.

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