UKC

Mixed trad category

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 tjekel 02 Nov 2020

@rockfax team, i suggest a mixed trad category (and have seen it on other sites) denoting routes that have some bolts/bolted belays, but still rquire a considerable amount of gear and therefore may not be considered pure sport.

Think many rebolted classic climbs in the Alps. It gives a clearer indication about the style of some climbs.

Opinions? 

3
In reply to tjekel:

Hi Thomas

Thanks for the suggestion.

We have had this issue in a number of UK areas for a long time, going back to the 1980s when bolts first started being added to limestone (mainly) routes. Our method of dealing with it has been in the route descriptions since there is a lot of variation. Sometimes it is just a single wire needed, other times it is a small rack for a long easy section. 

I would think it would be similar for long alpine routes. There will be some where you need a tiny rack and others where you need a bigger one, and others where a competent climber could get by without anything. Creating a category would not make this any clearer I don't think.

We also resist adding extra categories and grading systems since they just make everything so much more complicated.

Alan

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