UKC

Operation Zig Zag - Never never land -Dinorwic

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Twiggy Diablo 31 May 2021

Hi - The start of the 5c route is now to the right of the blunt arete. 
 

The alternate (direct) start is wrongly depicted on the app, and must be closer to 7a and involves a dangerous run out above a ledge to the second bolt- our friend broke his ankle yesterday as a result. Would hate for that to happen to someone else!

 jrobinson 31 May 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

The route has always started to the right, adjacent to Release the Kraken, from the bolts  that traverse up and across the blunt arete. Your friend started up the (newer) direct start which is Operation Bee Line 6c+. Sorry that happened to your friend, Topo lines should generally be treated as indicative.

Post edited at 13:06
2
OP Twiggy Diablo 31 May 2021
In reply to jrobinson: oh ok. There are some chopped bolts hence i assumed the start had moved further right.

Without the direct start being in guide too it’s just really confusing. We debated it for a while but the topo definitely shows the line going straight up the left side and the description sheds no light... 

I think a better description in the app would stop anyone making the same error.

 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 01 Jun 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

Sorry to here about your accident, as has been explained above there was a new direct version in 2019 (6c+), which has not quite made it into the Rockfax App although we did do a slate update around that time, it must have just missed going into that. As it was most people found the route prior to an additional line of bolts that makes any sport crag more confusing to find your route. I can assure you that the info has now been changed in the master documents for the next app and guidebook update. I think Alan is trying to update the app ASAP.

Thanks again for you feedback, as you can imagine keeping up with all the new routes on the slate can be hard, as there are still up to 20 new routes a year, some of which get better reported than others. Sometimes I literally stumble across new routes whilst I am out climbing.

OP Twiggy Diablo 01 Jun 2021
In reply to Mark Reeves:

Thanks Mark - i definitely wasn’t trying to criticise you guys in the above so apologies  if my tone came across that way (typing on my phone...) - it’s always a swiss cheese of chance occurrences that line up to cause these things, but just hoping to avert another accident

Post edited at 20:45

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...