/ Over the Hill FA

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I have spent years disputing Nipper Harrison's first ascent of Over the Hill (E4 6a) on the Castle, when in fact I made the first ascent in 1978, but leant out of the cave to check the continuation, up the overhanging wall, and never actually 'rested' as was proclaimed in several guidebooks (ask my partner Alan Baker). The CC guidebook editors said they would acknowledge my ascent|?

Now I'm saying to UKC/Rockfax, PUT it RIGHT, please.

Smiler
Post edited at 12:18

2
Pedro50 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:
Hi Smiler
My 1981 CC guide says 2pts aid. How did this discrepancy occur?

Cheers

Great route by the way
Post edited at 12:50
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:

I've edited the database.

Cheers, Paul.
In reply to Pedro50:
Hi Pedro,
Glad you liked it. I'm hoping one day, someone will accept that being naïve, I should never have said I leant out of the cave on a Moac to check what was to come. At least I was ready, after my checks, for the brutal lay-awaying that followed. If what I did was considered resting, that's total bull, and I didn't even abseil inspect it. Ask AB baker. he'll tell you all. I've never got involved in such disputes in 54 years of climbing, but seeing the 'first accent' name/s for Over the hill' still annoys me. I have never done many 1st ascents in my years of climbing, but I was proud of that one!

Cheers and it's good to hear someone has done it!

Smiler
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the change, but you still don't get it?
My name is Smiler Cuthbertson, not Dave Cuthbertson>
Don't people realise and see how long I've had to live in 'Cubbys' shadow? it's a good job I'm not a prolific new router and just get on with repeating good climbs?

Gripes officially over now!

Smiler
jon 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:

Hey Smiler,

In Pat's 1981 guide it's credited to you and Al with two points of aid on May 24 1980. In my 1985 guide it's still credited to you with aid, with a mention of FFA Nipper and Pat on 4 April 81. That information (that you used aid) could only have come from Nipper or Pat (quite where they got it from, I've no idea) and I must have taken it at face value when re writing the guide. I must say I don't remember any controversy at the time, however I'll apologise to you now, not that that helps that much! Hope it gets sorted in future guides.

On the same lines, spare a thought for Al Evans whose best route (his words) at Pembroke, Charisma, is wrongly credited... to me, in the latest guide! Just shows, even with computers (mine was hand written!) mistakes manage to creep in.

Hope you're well, I believe you hurt your back recently? All the best

Jon
In reply to Jon:
I guess my memory is going. I thought it was May 26th 1978, that's 40 years ago, when 'anyone who was anyone' in the climbing world seemed to be at that Pembroke weekend. What a great time we all had. New routes fell thick and fast. It was my birthday on the Saturday, hence the name 'Over the Hill'. I'm quite clear about 'no resting' though. I just leant out of a cave on a nut a couple of times to spec what was to come. But naively, I reported this. I recall having to pull all the stops out to get up the wall, and I have no recollection that the 'top moves' were any harder than the rest of the wall? I suppose I was 'flowing'?
I also probably (under) graded it at 5b/c E2/3 if I recall, and was delighted when I learnt Nipper and Pat did their ascent at 6a, but not so happy they were claiming it was a first free ascent.
P.S. My crushed vertebra have fused now. I fell off a 5-foot wall strimming backwards ??!! Doh, and just hit the deck as it came up as I couldn't do anything with the strimmer on my body. June last year and I'm fine now, but it's awkward tying my shoelaces. I get by!
Post edited at 14:52
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:

Sorry, I checked the name we have saved under your profile and it was D Cuthbertson so just assumed you were Dave. It's updated.
Rob Parsons 15 Aug 2017
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

> Sorry, I checked the name we have saved under your profile and it was D Cuthbertson so just assumed you were Dave. It's updated.

The surname is spelled incorrectly: you have

"Rockfax Description
"This burly climb follows the steep crack in the narrow east facing wall. Of the climbs here, this one probably has more scalps on its belt than the others since not only is it steep and sustained, but it also has a mysteriously technical move at the top. Follow the crack above a small cave, past one rest to another below a steep section. There are plenty of holds, though lots of them are not very useful! © Rockfax

"Smiler Cutherbeston 26/May/1978"

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator15 Aug 2017
In reply to Rob Parsons:

> "Smiler Cutherbeston 26/May/1978"

I have changed it now,


Chris
Michael Gordon 15 Aug 2017
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:

Doesn't help that Cubby also did a great route called Over the Hill!
jon 15 Aug 2017
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

> Sorry, I checked the name we have saved under your profile and it was D Cuthbertson so just assumed you were Dave.

He is, Paul. There are two - Smiler and Cubby.
Michael Gordon 16 Aug 2017
In reply to jon:

So he was correct?! But I can understand the value in recording their names differently.
Rick Graham 16 Aug 2017
In reply to Smiler Cuthbertson:

> Hi Paul,

> Thanks for the change, but you still don't get it?

> My name is Smiler Cuthbertson, not Dave Cuthbertson>

> Don't people realise and see how long I've had to live in 'Cubbys' shadow? it's a good job I'm not a prolific new router and just get on with repeating good climbs?

> Gripes officially over now!

> Smiler

Hi Dave!

IIRC when Cubby started up on the scene, 1976 ish, Ken Wilson made a point of pointing out that there were two Dave C's, Cubby and the not to be confused with Smiler, the noted Welsh scene activist.

Ian P will be along shortly with the issue # of the Mountain mag.
Ian Parsons 16 Aug 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

Hi Rick

I presume you're referring to Ian Parnell.
Rick Graham 16 Aug 2017
In reply to Ian Parsons:
He is probably not old enough to have a full set of Mountain, Mags

Edit; Fixed for you
Post edited at 19:18
Ian Parsons 16 Aug 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

Don't call me Mags; the "M" is for Michael.

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