UKC

What determines which grading system is shown?

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 Dale Turrell 15 May 2023

Hello,

A few things I've noticed all relating to logbooks and Font vs Hueco grades:

If I look at my logbook stats, my "Average / Max Grades by Year" are V grades, but my partners is in font grades (I noticed yesterday using the browser on my phone). Just before posting this I loaded the page on my laptop and it was in font grades, but then I did a hard refresh and it switched to V grades.

On the same page "Ascents by..." for bouldering uses font grades so there is a mix on the same page.

My logbook preference is "use local grades", although I changed to font to see if that would make a difference but it didn't, I can't find any other setting which might influence this.

I'm not sure if this is related but when voting on the grade of a problem I often see a combination of V and font grades, despite the problems system. Here is an example of a problem graded V2: https://i.imgur.com/Set8tum.png

Lastly as a crag mod I've noticed that if you change the grade of a problem i.e. from V6 to 7A to make a crag use a consistent grade system, you loose the historic grade votes. It it possible for the system to just "translate" them instead?

Thanks!

OP Dale Turrell 22 May 2023
In reply to Dale Turrell:

Bump

In reply to Dale Turrell:

Hi Dale, sorry for the late reply.

> If I look at my logbook stats, my "Average / Max Grades by Year" are V grades, but my partners is in font grades (I noticed yesterday using the browser on my phone). Just before posting this I loaded the page on my laptop and it was in font grades, but then I did a hard refresh and it switched to V grades.

On the My Stats page we attribute a score to each grade to work out the average. See below for Trad and Bouldering. This works fine most of the time but it can lead to some slight oddities. It's smart enough to only pick from grade systems that you've logged within that year but not smart enough to always pick the most appropriate one out of that selection. If for example you've climbed mainly British Trad that year and had a holiday in the US and your average is in between HVS and E1, it'll come out with the average grade being 5.9 (there is no direct equivalent British Trad grade for this). For the bouldering section, it does take into account the grade system preference you've selected but I suspect you're viewing a cached version of the page if it doesn't look to work.

> On the same page "Ascents by..." for bouldering uses font grades so there is a mix on the same page.

The bouldering grades in the Ascents by... do take into account the bouldering grade preference you've chosen in the settings. It'll show all Font, All V or a mixture of before when local grades is selected.

> My logbook preference is "use local grades", although I changed to font to see if that would make a difference but it didn't, I can't find any other setting which might influence this.

I suspect you need to hard refresh (Ctrl+F5 on PC, Shift+Cmd+R on Mac) the My Stats page to see the change. I'll see if I can make it take your preferred bouldering grade setting into account when setting the cache time the browser uses as it's not so easy to hard refresh on mobile.

> I'm not sure if this is related but when voting on the grade of a problem I often see a combination of V and font grades, despite the problems system. Here is an example of a problem graded V2: https://i.imgur.com/Set8tum.png

This is definitely a bug. It's switching V grades (which the climb is assigned) to display Font grades for the voting using your preferred grade setting. When you're using the Higher/Lower grade buttons to show the next grade up/down though, it's not respecting your preferred bouldering grade system and showing V grades. That make sense? I'll fix this.

> Lastly as a crag mod I've noticed that if you change the grade of a problem i.e. from V6 to 7A to make a crag use a consistent grade system, you loose the historic grade votes. It it possible for the system to just "translate" them instead?

This is something we're looking at doing. I took the liberty of adding some extra V grades into the table we use (see below) so each Font grade has a 1:1 V grade. This will mean historic votes and votes resulting from the bug above will still show. You could've voted V3+ on that example you linked to and it'll show a vote for f6A+ when you refreshed the page.



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