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100 in one day

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 rustaldo 17 Apr 2011
Hi,

Anyone ever tried getting 100 ticks in a single day?
I think I read about Ron Fawcett doing something like this.

Stanage being the optimal destination, short routes and shit loads of them.

Was thinking of giving it a crack over the next few weeks, anyone got any tick list suggestions? Trying to keep it HVS and below, as in the interest of time most will be done solo.

If the weathers good, should make a grand day out!
 Conf#2 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

Just start at one end and do every easy route you can as you continue along the crag.
If you want <HVS you can easily do 100 just at the popular area.
 Petarghh 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: If downclimbed mods and diffs and counted them it would be relatively easy

didnt a couple of WC climbers do over 500 in 24 hours ?
 aln 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: I went to some sh*te crag in Perthshire that everybody else seemed to love and I think between me and the dog we ended up with about 150 ticks. Oh, happy days.
ccmm 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

> Anyone ever tried getting 100 ticks in a single day?

If you stripped off bollock naked and rolled down Glen Etive you'd be covered in the wee sh1tes!
 aln 17 Apr 2011
In reply to Craig Mc:
> (In reply to rustaldo)
>
> [...]
>
> If you stripped off bollock naked and rolled down Glen Etive

Was that you? I said to the missus, no Mabel, don't look! But it was too late, she'd already been boondoggled
 gnc760 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

Did this last weekend. Started at the far end of Burbage North at 8am had 50 done by 12pm. Grabbed a fry in Hathersage and kipped at Hooks Car Park till 3.30pm - let the crowds and sun disappear a bit. Did another 25 on Stanage as far as FBD by 7.30pm. Nipped down to Birchen to finish off. Topsail onsight in the dark was the last climb of the day. Best day out I've had in a long time.

Included downclimbing in the total. Bring a comfy pair of boots, if there is any kind of tightness thats what'll stop you first. Worth waiting for good conditions as well - don't want it too hot or busy.
 jacobjlloyd 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: Few mates of mine did it, you can see the routes they did on page 18-20 of this logbook:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=13799&nstart=850&...

It is a challenge I a game for myself one of these sunny days - best of luck! 500 has been done - see this article:

http://condense.it/climbingchallenges
 John_Hat 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

Just a cautionary note from someone who regularly solos 30-50 routes a day.

You get tired. You get knackered. Not necessarily physically, if you're in condition, but you do get knackered mentally. You then start making small mistakes. Your foot placements are not as precise, you stub your toe on a descent, etc.

This is a very good time to stop, or complete the 100 on the easiest mods you can find.

It's a great thing to do, but it might be worth leading up to if your mind is not used to being utterly concentrated (as you tend to be whilst soloing) for the 8-10 hours it will take (I generally solo at 10 routes an hour at places like Stanage).

Obviously, if you regularly solo lots of routes in a day then feel free to ignore the above!
 BenTiffin 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: From past experiences at the 100 on Stanage - make sure you take plenty of water on a hot day - dehydration and soling don't mix.

Make sure you have a crap before arrival at the crap as wide bridges and the need for a crap also don't mix!

Ben
bill briggs1 17 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

not the best way to bo this but I was young.

Walk to stanage from Stoney , no food ,no water , 126 routes , walk back to stoney ,went to the moon. Happy Days.
 Mick Ward 17 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:
> (In reply to rustaldo)
>
> You get tired. You get knackered. Not necessarily physically, if you're in condition, but you do get knackered mentally. You then start making small mistakes...

> This is a very good time to stop...

Very. Good. Advice.

Mick

 PeteH 19 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

I did sixty today at Stanage; never done that many in a day before and I really found this to be true! Physically fine, but mentally exhausted by the end. I was definitely noticing myself getting a bit tenser and not thinking quite as clearly on the last few routes.

To the OP, in case you're interested in timings etc, I started at 11ish and stopped at 5:30 and got 60 routes up to VS done in that time, with a decent half-hour break for lunch and a lounge about on my bouldering mat. I just started at the right-hand end of Stanage main edge and did every route up to VS that I hadn't done before and that wasn't occupied. Backed off a couple (Kirkus's Original!)

I had an awesome day out, and it was really nice climbing routes that I probably wouldn't do otherwise, but I did get pretty dehydrated as well. I may try the 100 at some stage, but will aim for a cooler day, start much earlier and allow myself decent rests, and drink more water
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to PeteH:

Nicely done Sir!

I think the approach used by Garath above sounds a really good ides - have a kip in the middle of the day - it may stave off the mental fatigue

Personally I find 50-60 about my limit before I'm aware that I'm losing my focus a bit, and which point I'm pretty strict with myself and go home. I'd like to do the 100 though, and have plans to do so.

What I'd really like to do is the 100 Extremes in a day thing, which is (technically) possible. I'm soloing confidently up to about 5a/5b at the moment (and have soloed E1 plenty of times), given most E1's are 5a-5c then if I can push my ability to 5c then most E1's come within reach. A few more year's work and I reckon its possible. I'm no Ron Fawcett - I'm a low grade punter - so it would literally be 100 E1's, but that still counts!

It might appear a high ambition, but there's no point having *low* ambitions!
 Jonny2vests 19 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

There are 108 routes at Stanage with at least 1 star below HS - according to the latest definitive guide.

I tried that once but ran out of daylight at 86. Serves me right for doing it in early April though.

I did the starred ones to avoid untravelled choss & dirt. There's a surprising amount of chimneys in that lot as well too, some pretty green moments.
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

There are very few choss or dirt routes on Stanage, a handful at most. For soloing, the classics on average feel harder due to polish and as they cluster on the higher sections are longer and you have to walk round further in descent; you also have to work round more climbers. Having climbed every route on the crag below VS I can't think of one where I think the route is more than a grade out in the latest BMC, so its a good crag for such an attempt. Personally I've never done a hundred but have done over 50 on quite a few occasions. For 100 I'd probably spread over a few crags taking a break and climb the odd harder route; you need to break it up as focus starts to drift after a while and as some have said above that might catch you out, even on easy terrain. Hydration is very important: a few litres of endurance isotonic would work wonders.

John Hat's target would be amazing, anyone soloing 100 routes in a day close to their normal solo limit is a superstar in my view. I could never even consider that.
 tom290483 19 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

thats an awesome goal john. good luck to you!

i'd settle for ten E1's in a day never mind 100!
 EeeByGum 19 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: I did 30 VS's in a day and also 50 routes in a day. By the end of both I was absolutely knackered although I think 100 routes is definitely possible. I would suggest that Stanage is not the best place unless you are happy to solo up to VS. The best way for the average punter to do it would be to start at somewhere like Birchin and then end up at Burbage North.

You will get some people that will say that a 6 meter climb is not a route, but I define a route as something described as a route in the BMC definitive guide.

Good luck!
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> John Hat's target would be amazing, anyone soloing 100 routes in a day close to their normal solo limit is a superstar in my view. I could never even consider that.

Well, hopefully, if I ever get to a stage where it is possible, it won't be close to my solo limit...

There's twenty or so E-grades I could solo now with ease (and in many cases have), but they are inconvieniently located all over the country Now where's that teleport device....?

I would say that I was talking in a couple of years in the future, assuming that I could push my solo grade up from 5a/5b to 5b/5c. It's early days, but like I say, no point having a low ambition!

We shall see....
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to EeeByGum:
>
> You will get some people that will say that a 6 meter climb is not a route, but I define a route as something described as a route in the BMC definitive guide.
>

Slipstones is a good one for this... 25-odd buttresses, mainly easy stuff, all 6 metres high..
 Jonny2vests 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> There are very few choss or dirt routes on Stanage

Depends when you do them, the North facing ones can be pretty green early in the year. Some of the routes at Secret Stanage maybe only get 2 or three ascents a year, so they're never clean.

As far as stiffly graded routes go though, I did actually back off one - Lusitania. There was something that felt a bit height dependent about it, so I err'd on the side of caution as one does.
 Alex@home 19 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

possibly slightly leftfield considering previous responses, but if you're just after quantity then start at windgather. i regularly do about 20 in an hour there and there are 40ish routes at VS and below (haven't got guide book to hand so can't confirm numbers). of the HVSs only portfolio and the one on the right hand side of the right most buttress should really be avoided. the E1 is fairly easy but falling off isn't really an option and downclimbing is tricky.
then go to castle naze and you can probably get another 25+ done at vs and below. again haven't got book so there may be more than that.
then depending on traffic (road traffic that is) you could get over to burbage / stanage in not much over 30 minutes to complete the task.
i'm trying to find it in my head for how to finish the challenge staying out west - are there enough easy routes at ramshaw and roaches that are short enough? i wouldn't want to go to newstones/baldstones as i don't think there's enough that counts as routes and i certainly wouldn't want to walk up to hen cloud towards the end of a day like that
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

I've climbed north facing routes in every month of the year; you just need consecutive dry days. All the secret stanage stuff is clean to VS, its only harder than that you need to worry. The weird pebble dash stuff between Stanage North and Marble Wall can be slightly gritty but even then its OK to VS.

We have Lusitania as HS 4b on tha Offwidth site and the direct as VS 4b.
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Alex@home:

Coomb's my man: enough easy ticks with Windgather, Castle Naze and Oldgate Nick to get to 100 without a big drive.
 Alex@home 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

do you mean the bits around the edge of Combs Moss as it heads SW towards the White hall Centre? there are some routes in the first few hundred yards but i thought the ones further round were too broken for there to be much. mind you, hobb torr's just round the corner as well.
and once you get to white hall centre there's buxton boss just round the corner which must have 10 or so easy routes.
oldgate nick? aka cat's tor? seriously? i thought there were only about 3 routes up there.
still, the seed has now been planted. i'll have to have a look at some books tonight and see what i can come up with
 Jonny2vests 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> I've climbed north facing routes in every month of the year; you just need consecutive dry days.

Wow, so you've gone out, every month and done every north facing Stanage route. You scientists certainly are meticulous. Did you solo them though? (I knew you would have to argue the toss).

I was merely pointing out that because of human nature, starred routes get more travel and therefore on average, are a better bet for inclusion on a solo tick list. So three star routes might be more sustained, but there are usually less surprises. We all like surprises, just not 20m above pointy rocks.

> We have Lusitania as HS 4b on tha Offwidth site and the direct as VS 4b.

No arguments there.
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

Our website work started in the late 90s with Stanage; more recently I was one of the main contributors to the Stanage guide. So although I've not climbed every route every month every year, I do know that north facing routes can be climbed on good days in January. I guess scientists are meticulous to the extent they need to be. I've also soloed pretty much anything on Stanage given less than Severe and in mid winter soloing on Stanage is often a necessity, as messing around with ropes can be baltic. Quite a few Stanage severes are still on my solo ticklist, including Lusitania.

I was merely pointing out that your good intentions may be misplaced and counterproductive: that short routes with no stars on the wings of the popular areas don't get silly grades any more and will take less energy out of you and I'd recommend them. The 100 ticks would be way easier if you dont need to travel beyond the plantation.

More info here:

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/stanagenorth.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/stanagehighneb.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/plantation_north.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/plantation_south.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/popular_end_left.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/popular_end_right.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/stanageupgrade_topten.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/stanage07upgrade_topten.html
http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/easterngritstoneupgrades_topten.html
 PeteH 19 Apr 2011
In reply to everyone:
Just another 2p of mine:

Starting at "The be all and end all" (C Craggs) at the right-hand end of the main edge, my sixty VS-and-unders took me almost to Inverted V; you'd easily get 100 VS-and-unders between the Popular end and Plantation. Lower your maximum soloing grade, and obviously you're going further, but the majority of my sixty were still HS and under.

As for choss and dirt, there was none whatsoever to be found on any of the routes I was on yesterday. Polish was definitely more of a danger. My foot slipped twice during the day, once on the start of Crack and Corner (no surprises there!) and once on some random VS when I was getting a bit tired and just didn't look properly where I was putting my foot. Hooray for three points of contact!

The chimneys were a welcome retreat from the sun - lovely and cold and dark in there...

As for 100 extremes in a day, it's definitely on my list, but it feels a long way off... There are plenty of E1s I have soloed, and ones I've led that I would solo, but there are plenty that I really really wouldn't! I think onsight soloing a large number of extremes in a day would be a serious challenge (in more ways than one), and finding 100 extremes I've already done and would be happy to solo, which are in a relatively small geographical area, would be pretty tricky. As you say, John_Hat, no point in having low ambitions!

Pete.

Pete.

 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to PeteH:

You'd easily get 100 under VS on the popular end! From memory there are 50+ right of Flying Buttress to The End All.
 PeteH 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
Ah, well in actual fact you're right. I was thinking I had missed out fewer than five or six because they were occupied, but I'd forgotten there's a bird ban between Eliminator and the Unprintable, which includes quite a few. Plus I didn't do routes I'd previously led.

Pete.
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to PeteH:
> (In reply to everyone)
>
> As for 100 extremes in a day, it's definitely on my list, but it feels a long way off... There are plenty of E1s I have soloed, and ones I've led that I would solo, but there are plenty that I really really wouldn't! I think onsight soloing a large number of extremes in a day would be a serious challenge (in more ways than one), and finding 100 extremes I've already done and would be happy to solo, which are in a relatively small geographical area, would be pretty tricky. As you say, John_Hat, no point in having low ambitions!
>
> Pete.

Well, a little bit of research - albeit with the rockfax guide and not the definitive stanage guide (which would make life a lot easier) - indicated around 65 routes in the area that could probably be candidates. I suspect the definitive guide would add the rest, but frankly its looking pretty hard to actually find the routes without straying into E5+ land.

By the way, I was never, ever thinking of on-sighting any of them. My top on-sight solo is E2 5b and it scared the bejesus out of me!

The other way, of course, would be to find 50 routes and then solo them all twice. Much easier, counts as "100 Extremes in a Day", and actually do-able.

Unfortunately, the thick end of that particular wedge is finding something ridiculously easy for E1 and soloing it 100 times. That's do-able (if boring as hell) for me *now* (and I know which one I'd pick too!). However, although counting as "100 Extremes in a day" it's not exactly playing fair....
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

My top onsight solo is E2 5b and you won't catch me soloing 100 routes with more than the odd route harder than Severe. Its a great aim and good luck with it.
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

I guess I'm semi-serious in that

a) I love soloing.
b) I regularly solo up to around 5b now.
c) I regularly do 50+ routes a day.

So, logically, on the basis of the above, it should be potentially possible (note wording) if, say, I was soloing 5c. Logically.

However, there's a massive step from that to 100 E's in a day. A massive, jaw-dropping, stomach-clenching, dinner-vomiting step.

It might never happen, but as I said, there's no point having low ambitions!
 PeteH 19 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:
I definitely wouldn't be satisfied with the same route counting twice towards my 100. And it'd be a helluva lot more satisfying, although proportionally more difficult, to have 100 extreme onsight soloes in a day.

Pete.
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to PeteH:
> (In reply to John_Hat)
> And it'd be a helluva lot more satisfying, although proportionally more difficult, to have 100 extreme onsight soloes in a day.
>

You are certainly on your own with that one!!

Unless......

Ok, we conspire with a guidebook writer to accidentally print a small run (say, one copy) with all the grades inverted. Mod becomes E7, etc....

The grade's what's in the book, yes?
 Jonny2vests 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Our website work started in the late 90s with Stanage; more recently I was one of the main contributors to the Stanage guide.

Yes yes, we all know that you're a godammed hero

> I was merely pointing out that your good intentions may be misplaced and counterproductive: that short routes with no stars on the wings of the popular areas don't get silly grades any more and will take less energy out of you and I'd recommend them. The 100 ticks would be way easier if you dont need to travel beyond the plantation.

Empirical evidence of my own would seem to suggest otherwise and I reject your hypothesis forthwith.
And besides, spreading the ticks over the whole edge makes for a quintessential Stanage adventure, if somewhat logistically problematic.
bill briggs1 19 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:
> >
> So, logically, on the basis of the above, it should be potentially possible (note wording) if, say, I was soloing 5c. >
> However, there's a massive step from that to 100 E's in a day.

I think it is a very big step.

Ron could safely do the deed because Ron was in his day the ultimate climbing machine. Climbing every day at the current limit, soloing on grit like no one had done before, so much reserve in the tank.
I would watch him on Stanage solo up and down the hardest routes on the edge.
Its a great target, but its a long and dangerous road.
 Offwidth 19 Apr 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

lol

Anyway, this thread has inspired me to give it a shot tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on. Starting Popular right with easy routes, including unstarred ones, at about 7:30am.
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

Good luck!

I'm planning to try at some point over the bank holiday weekends coming up, so we shall see if the weather plays ball with my schedule!

(Note: the 100 routes, not the 100 E1's! *grins*. The latter will have to wait until I am quite a *lot* better!)
 John_Hat 19 Apr 2011
In reply to bill briggs1:
> (In reply to John_Hat)
> [...]
>
> Its a great target, but its a long and dangerous road.

That's I guess it. It's a target. It may be a target I never hit, but like I've said, there's no point having a *low* ambition! Currently about 10 E-grades in a day (roped) is about my best - mind you they were mainly E2/E3's but equally they mainly had no gear. I would be stupendously chuffed if I got 20 E grades in a day
 PeteH 19 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
Enjoy, mate, and stay safe! Do report back
 John H Bull 20 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

My 1st attempt: boots too tight, blisters after 50 routes, knew I'd blown it. Plan for 3000 feet of descent in rock boots. Wear socks and take plasters. About a year ago I made it as easy as I could like this: Birchen 50/3h, Baslow 20/1h, Burbage N 35/2h, Stanage App N 10/1h, bit of a rest while driving to Windgather where climb until knackered - 15/1.5h. Mods/Diffs were included, but even with a low-end cut off of V Diff you'll be allright getting to 100 with this itinerary.
In reply to rustaldo:
> Hi,
>
> > I think I read about Ron Fawcett doing something like this.
>
>
Ron did 100 E graded climbs in one day.His write of of them, (see "Fawcett on Rock,) is something of a classic of climbing literature.


There is a list of his routes too, he solo'd up and down routes.
 Alex@home 20 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

had a look in the 2003 bmc roaches guide last night. if you're prepared to solo up to vs then there's comfortably over 100 from castle naze heading south west to white hall centre/buxton boss and then over to windgather. may not be as impressive as 100 at stanage but you could pretty much do it on foot (assuming transport to start and from finish) and there are pubs for food en route and for essential beer at the end. should make for an enjoyable day out
 Offwidth 20 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

Completed my first hundred in a day between 7.40 and 17.10; then one for luck (Gardener's Crack). Climbed from the far right of the Popular End to mid-Planation. My foot's still playing up so may have looked a bit odd soloing everything with an approach shoe on my left foot and a climbing shoe on the right. Did a few HS's, about 10 Severes and the same number of HVDs, than every route to VD except those in the bird banned bits. The heat was exhausting in mid afternoon, so I'm glad I started earlyish and very greatful my mate Chris FitzHugh came out to solo as many as possible of the last quarter with me. I also wish I'd taken 4 lites of isotonic and not three. Slipped on Crack and Corner start but held it; had to turn on the 'supercharger' unexpectedly on the delightfuly steep finish of Right Wall Route; couple of false starts on S 4bs; otherwise little in the way of incident. Knackered now.
Lynn BMC President 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

Very well done Steve! Now I'll have to do 102 in a day, not that I'm competitive or anything!! It certainly beats my '41 in a day' that I did on my 40th birthday xxxx years ago!

Moff xx
 John_Hat 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

Well done you!

Perhaps you should start a club...

Lets see, if evey route is 16m on average, 100 would be 1600m, near enough a mile.

So we could call it the mile-high club.

Erm.

 Sam Marks 20 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: Theres plenty of short easy solos on the short edges between stanage plantation and popular.
 gnc760 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to rustaldo)
>
> Slipped on Crack and Corner start but held it


This one needs a lot of care, especially in the first half.
 Jonny2vests 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:

Splendid. Good effort mate.
 wilkie14c 20 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to rustaldo)
> Slipped on Crack and Corner start but held it

who doesn't!!

Great effort well done, especially in this glorious weather. Boy are you gonna ache the morra!
 Michael Hood 21 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo & others: I did 100 in a day back in 1992 all on Stanage at this time of year. All were ascents, all except 1 were routes I'd done before and lots were very easy - bottom grade was D, top grade was VS (unless you think Green Streak is HVS) which counted 15.

I started right at the north end at 11 and finished on Balcony Buttress at 6:30.

Points to note - it's easier if you do loads of routes north of the causeway because there are loads <10m with quick walkround descents.
- I'd previously done up to about 60 routes in a day so had an idea of what I was letting myself in for.
- As has already been said - be careful - after about 60 routes I realised I was getting mentally tired so had to concentrate harder to avoid making a stupid mistake/slip.
- Doing it N to S meant that I was getting on the popular end when I was tired, so I could get really selective with routes and chose ones that I was very familiar with.
- Keep eating and drinking throughout the day, it's hard work but rewarding.

Not sure I'd bother doing it again - but I would like to be fit enough to have the choice
 Offwidth 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

I was really being careful by 80 as it was so bloody hot and I was tired and running low on fluid. Also forgot to add I only did numbered climbs.

My early start and midweek attempt meant I had little problems with other folk at the Popular End but some kind folk did let me in on the two Leaning Buttress routes and on Hollybush Crack. You sure slow down due to the extra height and descents at the main Popular End... 20 in the first hour then 10 an hour. There was a young man who seemed to be on a similar mission, who was a few ahead of me when I last saw him (around the 30 mark), hope he made his target as well.

I ache a bit but not that much.
 PeteH 21 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
Good work

Pete.
 Michael Hood 24 Apr 2011
In reply to Offwidth: As per http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=443568 I did 26 routes A-Z in order on Friday at Stanage.

Worked from the 2002 guide (latest I own), since there's only 1 "X" - X-Ray HS 4b I set myself the rule that HS 4b was the hardest grade allowed. Managed to fit them all in between Titanic area and Crow Chin except for "Z" which was right down at the south end - Zip Crack.

It's a lot harder than just doing 26 routes because of all the changing in & out of rock shoes and loads of walking backwards and forwards. I was knackered by the end (being overweight, unfit and going for a run in the morning probably didn't help so drove along to the south end to do "Z" - is that classed as aid? However it's definitely lots easier than doing 100 so really well done to you for managing it in the heat.

Next time will be having HS 4b as the minimum grade, but will need to be climbing better and might need a rope on some.
 John_Hat 24 Apr 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

Nicely done Sir!

Yes, I had problems with the heat on Stanage on Friday as well. Only 16 routes, but that was because I managed to scare myself stupid soloing Hargreaves Original (and eventually sloped off on the left hand variant - not that there was any reason to get worried, I just did - go figure?).

Followed that up with Rabies (E1 5c - which I was quite pleased with), and ended up with Wall End Slab which was lovely. 1xE1, 4xVS 2xHS, 3xS, and a load of mods and diffs. All on-sight solos.
 JSA 24 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

Hi John,

I was at the far south of Stanage on Friday, starting from the left of apparent north working rightwards towards the cowper stone, not a climber in sight so had the whole area to ourselves. Anyway, 28 for me Friday and 36 for my climbing partner.
 John_Hat 24 Apr 2011
In reply to JSA:

Hiya!

I started at the right of popular and went as far as the plantation path, albeit with a small excursion to Tom Cat Slab to have a look, but decided that I was hot, bothered, achey and running out of time, and it would still be there at a later date!

Glad you had a good day!
 JSA 24 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

I gave up after 28 due to sore feet. Shame we didn't meet up, would have been good to catch up. I'll pm you next time I'm out, which hopefully will be next saturday...
 John_Hat 24 Apr 2011
In reply to JSA:

Yup, should be out, probably soloing, probably Stanage. PM away!

 JSA 24 Apr 2011
In reply to John_Hat:

Will do, expect a PM some time Friday evening
 Tiberius 25 Apr 2011
In reply to stroppygob:

> Ron did 100 E graded climbs in one day.His write of of them, (see "Fawcett on Rock,) is something of a classic of climbing literature.

Worth pointing out that all routes were E's and not all E1's, many were E2 and even a few E3's...when you're already knackered from a day's climbing?

I have the list in the Fawcett on rock book, but if I remember correctly very few were done at Stanange, Ron actually says the reason is he doesn't like it much.

As above, a very good read.
 Tiberius 25 Apr 2011
In reply to Tiberius:

Ok, just went and go the book to check. It's even more impressive than I thought. Not only are there quite a few E3's in, there's also some E4's and a couple of E5's.
 Tiberius 25 Apr 2011
In reply to Tiberius:

co-incidentally, I was watching Ron climb today at the Works in Sheff, on his own, quietly and slowly working his way round clockwise. Kinda wondered why he wasn't outside.
 Lukem6 25 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo:
I wonder how many a competent pair could lead in a day with gear?
I normally spend the whole day doing 4/5 climbs, including walking between chosen ticks. Maybe if i decided to do all vs's on stanage left to right.

has any one else tried this and how many could you do?
 Lukem6 25 Apr 2011
In reply to rustaldo: with the right gear perhaps and no random luggage to haul,
 Offwidth 03 May 2011
In reply to lm610: Im pretty sure I could lead 100 in a day having done it solo. You just need someone fit and able on the other end of the rope and a short thin rope to keep the weight down. It would probably take 90 mins per 10 routes rather than the 60 it took me. My current best is in the 50s.
bill briggs1 03 May 2011
In reply to lm610:
> (In reply to rustaldo)
> I wonder how many a competent pair could lead in a day with gear?

The trick is not to belay at the top but to walk back at the top onto the moor pulling the rope behind you. A short rope, a few runners and a similar partner equals lots of routes.
 Offwidth 03 May 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

I forgot to add that the A to Z is another one of my targets (although doing it in order is slightly mascochistic) and, of course, to say well done.

You should also do do a number route as well for the real tick, like 49 Bikinis (and an astrerix tick as well for the ultra Stanage fetishist!).
 Offwidth 03 May 2011
In reply to bill briggs1:

A body belay or a direct belay off a good runner is much less effort. If you walk with the rope it needs to be tight and that is tiring. You may need to specify a runner enroute per route otherwise people may cheat: my 50's often included roped solos with body belays for a trusted second.
bill briggs1 03 May 2011
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to bill briggs1)
>
> A body belay or a direct belay off a good runner is much less effort.

The walk back from the edge is about speed not effort , by the time you are belayed , my partner is up and we move on. ( Chris Craggs + Graham Parkes did 50 E routes like this before a Climbers Club dinner some years ago , good effort )
 Offwidth 04 May 2011
In reply to bill briggs1: I'm not surprised that did that... climbing machines those two. I still think its horses for courses and I wouldnt do it unless I had to (like being stranded on a grassy seacliff top-out with no belay when the second cant hear; or if climbing together on easy terrain). If your second fell on any slack in the system it could be a serious. Back on Stanage, on most routes a convenient direct belay at the top takes seconds; if not, and the risk of a fall is low, a body belay where you are braced and can communicate to me is safer and less effort.
 Budge 04 May 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

Tried to do it in between dropping the kids at school and picking them up again.

Failed not through lack of time but through having trouble focussing, I basically became mentally zonked after about 60 routes at Burbage North. I wasnt physically that tired but found it too draining. Perhaps if I had more time I could have relaxed for a while and finished.
 John Lewis 04 May 2011
In reply to rustaldo:

I noticed in a guidebook recently that the FA of a route was the particular climbers 111th climb of the day! Pity I cant recall the Route or the Climber in question. Could be at Rhylstone?
 John Lewis 04 May 2011
In reply to John Lewis: Or even Rylstone! :-S

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