UKC

A1 pulley injury advice

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 mikekeswick 09 Jan 2013
A few months ago I was bouldering at Brimham, I ended up trying an eliminate problem with tiny crimpy edges whilst not at all warmed up....
The next day I had a bit of pain in my middle finger around the a1 pulley. It hurt for a few days but then seemed to get better pretty quickly. I rested it for a week or so then only did light climbing with the finger taped for a few more weeks. I've now started trying harder stuff again but
the problem is that although experiencing no pain during climbing it is tender the next day if I squeeze the area.
I've got an appointment with a hand specialist on the 22nd and am hoping he can shed some light on what exactly is wrong but in the mean time there must be something proactive that I can do to help myself. I've read about massaging the area and using ice after climbing.
Any advice??
 el_monty 09 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick: use cold treatment on the hand and stretch to increase blood flow!
 Skyfall 09 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick:

Have a look at Dave MacLeod's comments on it. Many people refer to this almost by default nowadays.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.h...

This is also good.

http://climbinginjuries.com/fingers-pulleys/

When recovering from pulley/colateral strains I have tried contrast 'baths' but tend to use icing on its own, plus gentle massage helps. Anyway, read these and see what makes sense for you.
OP mikekeswick 10 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick: Thanks for the links. Very useful.
 nniff 10 Jan 2013
In reply to mikekeswick:

I've been plagued for years by these. My usual matra is rest and massage (firmly, along the length of the finger). And wait until you're absolutely sure it's better - an experimental pull-up will put it back to square one. It is not possible to 'climb without using it'. Tape it up when you do start again - Strappal is the only tape worth using - the others either don't stick or have some stretch, which renders it uselss for supporting a pulley.

However, we were having a clear-out recently and I found a pair of those Chinese ringing balls (shiny metal things that go 'clong' and vibrate when they're knocked together (sub-snooker ball size). Heaven knows where they came from.

I thought I'd give them a go and found that the gentle exercise and the vibration worked a treat. It's even better when they're cold.

Highly recommended.

 Skyfall 10 Jan 2013
In reply to nniff:

> However, we were having a clear-out recently and I found a pair of those Chinese ringing balls (shiny metal things that go 'clong' and vibrate when they're knocked together (sub-snooker ball size). Heaven knows where they came from.

Clue: when you found these, did your other half look embarrassed?
 nniff 10 Jan 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to nniff)
>
> [...]
>
> Clue: when you found these, did your other half look embarrassed?

You've got a grubby mind and should be ashamed of yourself!

Beyond that I will not comment.




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