UKC

Has anyone any advice on the best/most memorable routes to climb in Palkencia, Croatia?

Or any other help in things to do there.

Arriving there this October.

Thanks for any help 

We were there 4 years ago.  Can't remember names, i'll have to go and find my list tomorrow.  There's a few pleasant short routes but that's not really what you go there for.  We did a couple of the big ones on the RHS, as you walk in the 'upstream' direction.  Celski Stup rings a bell,  6a+ , about 8 or 10 pitches, cracking day out.

Three shorter routes that I enjoyed for different reasons were:

1. A route that was called Hare Rama in the 2003 guide but now seems to be called E dulcis in Fundo (6b) in UKC. I found it really hard and sustained at its grade and run out at the top but that made it the most memorable route of the trip.

2. Tron/Throne (6b+). We only went up here because there was a gale howling down the gorge and this faces out to sea. It was out of the wind and gave some really good climbing.

3. Kosovo (6a+). The main reason for remembering this is the sea of grooves on the second pitch. They look like a sea of Andean snow runnels transformed into limestone.

I don't think any of them gets a star on UKC but I remember them.

As well as climbing, Split is well worth a visit if you're doing the tourist thing. Diocletion's Palace is something else.

For me the best most memorable are the multi-pitch routes. we did Nosorog on Kukovi ispod Vlake (5 pitches and close to the car park) and further up the gorge past the popular end there is more to go at. The climbs around the shop area are very popular but getting quite polished.

There is a really excellent walk/scramble going up Mala Paklenica over the mountains and back down velika Paklenica (Where the climbing is). Its a longish trail but easily doable in a day. The first section involves following a dry river bed (assuming it isn't in end of winter flood) with some interesting scrambles over huge boulders. We saw an amazing array of wild life and fresh bear prints up in the hills. Fantastic views and a cafe at the end.

+1 for Nosorog. Also you can't go wrong with Mosoraški (6a)

And Klin ... one of the 10 routes that were deemed worth to travel for ...Klin (6c+)