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Aims of 2018?

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 zv 28 Dec 2017
It's the time of year I am a bit bored in between the holidays. So let's have a chat about climbing, even though New Year's is kind of arbitrary.

Have you got any aims for 2018?

I'll start:

1) Try a lot of new outdoor routes and hopefully book at least 3 foreign sport trips this year. 1 booked already so a third of the way there!


2) Try hard to tick a Font 7B. Interesting in continuing the siege on both Left Wall Traverse at Parisella's and something short and powerful (I really liked Caveman on the Little Orm);

3) Try hard to tick a 7c route and above.

Possible candidates - Stone the Loach at the Embankment at Cheedale and a couple of other things I tried abroad.

4) Try the moves on an outdoor 8a, just to see what it feels like outdoors. Hopefully a stunning looking line somewhere to get inspired and train for.
 1poundSOCKS 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

> Try the moves on an outdoor 8a, just to see what it feels like outdoors

If you mean route, not as hard as Font 7B by a long way. Maybe not even Font 7A.

My objective in 2017 was to climb 8a, but I got injured. I'd be happy in 2018 to not get injured. And then I'll take it from there...
OP zv 28 Dec 2017
Looking forward to getting on one then!

Good luck with injuries, mate. People almost always become stronger than before a few months after they come back from an injury.
 paul mitchell 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Possibly move back to Sheff and become a climbing coach.
1
In reply to zmv:

Pretty simple this year, stop wasting time with an on sight head attitude and get red-pointing. Same for bouldering, I need to project my way up the Font grades.
When we get away on trips, I need not to treat it as a holiday, and get some work done on the crag. It looks like Mallorca, Font (x2), Dolomites and Austrian Sport, and maybe Sicily are on this year. I’m 60 in two years time and would like to celebrate it with even a little bit of dignity left
 Ben_Climber 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Get my arse back up the Blanc (Trois Monts this time).
Get back on the Trad and spread my time better between bouldering and routes.
Grow a pair and do Wings of Unreason (E4 6a)

Ben
1
 gribble 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Get up some of them there routes up Tryfan with my daughter. Ultimately, my dream is that she is able to take the lead on a few pitches. Daddy and daughter days out on rock - they're great!
OP zv 28 Dec 2017
In reply to gribble:

Sounds great that!
 Wft 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Ben_Climber:
> Grow a pair and do Wings of Unreason (E4 6a)

> Ben

Girls have climbed it too
Post edited at 12:42
18
 GridNorth 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

I'm 70 in 2018 and I would like to be on-sighting 7a before I get there. I did several in Kalymnos last year but they have all been down graded to 6c+ so I need to try harder. I'm not one for redpointing or training for that matter but I have just ordered an exercise bike and I'm hoping I can be disciplined enough to use it. Therefore my aim is to climb "proper" 7a come April.
 Ben_Climber 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Wood for Trees:

Correct, because they have bigger ones than me
 Pete Dangerous 28 Dec 2017
In reply to paul mitchell:

> Possibly move back to Sheff and become a climbing coach.

I'm going to start saving for a potential move to Sheffield. Kent is the worst place to be for a climber I'm sure, unless you
stay in climbing centers and don't venture outside.
1
 Skip 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Find some reliable partners.
 Alex Riley 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Skip:

1. Not leave my ropes in other people's cars this coming year.

2. Boulder 7B

3. Tick a well known Welsh classic at tremadog

4. Climb some new routes
 Dr.S at work 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Ben_Climber:

> Correct, because they have bigger ones than me

drink more beer?
 Fishmate 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Pete Dangerous:

>Kent is the worst place to be for a climber...

Truest words of 2017. I'm considering moving to Spain for exactly this reason. Hope your xmas was good mate. Are we likely to see you at The Reach at some point?



 Pete Dangerous 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Fishmate:

> >Kent is the worst place to be for a climber...

> Truest words of 2017. I'm considering moving to Spain for exactly this reason. Hope your xmas was good mate. Are we likely to see you at The Reach at some point?

Well, my boiler broke down and needed replacing and we had to cancel our holiday because of it, then my car was written off by a lorry on a roundabout three weeks before Christmas. Dealing with the insurance and finding a new car has been such a ballache, so not a great end to the year. I have no one to rope climb with any more and the bouldering at The Reach isn't nearly as fun as other places so I don't know. I'm getting out to the sandstone a lot and working my way through the higher grades slowly which is great, but I need a midweek fix somewhere. When I climbed at Westway I got to hook up with loads of people outside but The Reach doesn't seem to have that vibe. I'm, keen to get back on some good rock though so if you're going anyway, happy to hook up. I have three pads so I'm handy to know, haha
 Fishmate 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Pete Dangerous:

You can't beat a shit December
Every time I've wanted to get out on SS it's been raining. There's still plenty of routes and problems worth doing. I'm going to grit quite often and will be looking at Font early next year and Ticino/Chironico late March/April. Albarracin September/October. Hopefully padded out with a couple more Font trips. I'm very interested to get up to Torridon if you're interested. If you're friended with The Reach on FB I'll pm my number to you later. If you have time to hook up or vice versa we'll definitely be pad rich
 Pete Dangerous 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Fishmate:

Yeah I'm on there.

It's a shame High Rocks is still off limits. There's so much there. I was in The Peak last month and was overwhelmed with the rock, volume and chatty people. I need some more of that. Hit me up on FB and I'll let you know when I'm heading to the sandstone. I'm on Maybe When You're Older at the moment but only one session in!
 Brass Nipples 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Crush Tower Ridge with Bear Grylls
 Mr. Lee 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Attempt to un-injure myself. Get over the stress fracture in the ankle, then start cashing in some of the annual leave that I have unintentionally accumulated whilst being out of action in 2017.
OP zv 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Lion Bakes:

Hope you send it!
 bouldery bits 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

I'm going to win the OMM C class.

 bouldery bits 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Lion Bakes:

> Crush Tower Ridge with Bear Grylls

Radical.
 Goucho 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Everything hinges on how well my shoulder recovery goes, but a few straightforward ice climbs over the last couple of weeks have given me optimism

So if everything continues well, then I'd be delighted to get round to these over the next year.

Another trip to Bhutan with Mrs G, including the possibility of some skiing in the Chomalhari region.

Colton Mac on the Jorasses and Peutery Integrale, in Winter - curtailed this year through shoulder injury - and still possibly wishfull thinking even for the back end of 2018, but you never know?

Getting fit enough on the rock to get back to E5, if for nothing else but Whillance's magnificent Edge of Extinction on The Brack, whilst I've still got at least a slim chance before old age finishes the fingers off for good?

Getting back to the grit at some point to see if I'm still up to repeating some of those classic John Allen masterpieces.

The Bat, Carn Dearg - I'm at that age where some old scores still need to be settled

Getting as fit and strong as possible, because for 2019, I've still not given up on the possibility of the Cassin Ridge on Denali, and an 8000'er?

Of course if the shoulder doesn't get back to full working order, then the big ambition for 2017 in terms of climbing, could well be Central Trinity at Stanage


 Misha 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Goucho:
Great list including the 2019 goals. Good luck!
 bouldery bits 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Goucho:

Hope the shoulder sorts itself nicely. best of luck with your aims!
 Misha 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:
Get my application to the BMG training scheme accepted (need a bit more Alpine and ski touring experience).

Do a few classic Scottish winter VIIs and may be VIIIs, especially on crags where I haven't done much or haven't done anything.

Do a big Alpine mixed route in spring. The Ginat, Drus North Couloir, Eiger NF, that kind of thing. Hoping conditions will improve in the next three months...

Do a few more classic E5s in the summer. Realistically, doubt I'd get to E6.

Do some classic multipitch E grade routes on mountain crags in the summer (not done much last couple of years due to poor weather / conditions).

Do some Swiss Alpine ridge ADs and a big Alpine route like the Peuterey Integral in the summer (I'm not up to Goucho's aim of doing the Integral in winter!).
 Goucho 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Misha:
> Great list including the 2019 goals. Good luck!

Thanks Misha.

At the beginning of this year, they did seem realistic goals, but the shoulder surgery might yet prove to be the end of my Indian climbing summer

And on the last couple of miles of a 10 mile run through the Aosta valley yesterday, both my knees, and particularly my right knee, started hurting and are still sore today, which could be an isolated event, or the ageing process finally starting to catch up with the years of abuse?

I suppose the only thing worse than a young fool, is an old one
Post edited at 21:15
 alx 28 Dec 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

> Radical.

Celebrate with a warm glass of the pale ale?
 alx 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Having watched 2017 go down the pan with personal injury, my other half being signed off to long term sick leave. I will pleased enough with her being recovered enough to start her own business and pursue her wildlife photography. And having chased boulder grades for over a decade I am pleased to announce I have no great climbing aspirations!

Need to nail the full planche, this last lever still eludes me!
 Bulls Crack 28 Dec 2017
In reply to paul mitchell:
You're spotting a niche?
Post edited at 21:33
 SenzuBean 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

I'd like to:

- Lead 5.10c trad (roughly low-end E2 5c), with a much greater number of 5.10bs (roughly hard HVS 5b to solid E1 5b) thrown in. To achieve this, I will be continuing the last few month's focus of getting sustainably lighter (I've managed to get down from 78kg -> 74kg, hoping to break into the 60s), and then doing some actual training (I've been purposely focusing on technique gains instead), and then trying really, really hard (I've noticed that as I've got better, I seem to find it harder to try hard).
- Do some alpine routes. Mileage over quality. I will hopefully get some ice climbing practice in this winter, and then I have avalanche course, and need to practice glacier stuff, and then by Spring I should be ready.
- Stretch goal: Lead up to WI3 ice. Main issues are buying the rest of the gear, finding the time to get out there and get the experience, and getting better at putting screws in. Physically - I can toprope WI3 now.
- Stretch goal: RP 5.12a sport. So far didn't find anything worth coming back to, but I guess I'll just have to look harder.
- Stretch goal: Boulder V6. Haven't found anything yet that appeals, but to be fair I've only been out 4 times bouldering ever.
womblingfree 28 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Not really climbing related but want to get proper hill fit again, and spend a lot more time in the mountains than last year

Going hut to hut in Europe somewhere would be nice

And fingers crossed a new wall is opening near me, so start bouldering again
 Misha 28 Dec 2017
In reply to Goucho:
If I did a 10 mile run through the Aosta valley, it wouldn’t be just my knees hurting and I’m half your age!

Shoulder injury must be annoying but the climbing on something like the Integral isn’t that hard (at least in summer - I’ve done the Noire SR, I imagine in winter it would be sketchy and slow but not necessarily that hard for most of it). So hopefully you’d be able to do it even with a so-so shoulder.
 Skyfall 28 Dec 2017
In reply to alx:

Ah welcome to "old" age and injury induced time off. Having had a few good years of relatively injury free climbing I have been bit by a combination of biceps and forearm tendonitis (same arm) and nothing is shifting it at the moment. However, I've been here before in various shapes and forms and will no doubt get back climbing seriously again (though maybe not at the standards of some (most) people on this thread!).
 BrendanO 29 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Get my Honda CX500 back on the road and to Germany in April.

Make more use of the CWA, and get a bit more training/courses...hopefully NOT at my own expense!

More trad.

Actually, just more climbing!
 aln 29 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Tatties
 aln 29 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Be good, be more helpful, spend more time with my son, spend more time with my GF, have more fun, look at the stars more, eat better, experience more, live music
 ChrisBrooke 29 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Get more sleep...
 JackM92 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

1) - Lead Right Wall. Or Pacemaker at Sharpnose. .

2) - Do far far more indoor climbing, bouldering and sport and less trad. Most of the routes I now want to climb are harder than I'm capable of leading.

3) - Do ML assessment in the spring and get everything ready to do MIA training. Right now I'm sitting in a dark stockroom on a crate of Carlsberg Special Brew on my break, in 5 minutes it's back to shelf stacking and it's a bit crap really. So the main goal next year is to take some steps to get more fulfilling work.
 crimpsoplenty 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Get out and do more trad.
Boulder outside more and make use of all the weekdays I have off work.
Work on my head and get above those clips in a calmer state
Get up a 7a
Lead something tufa filled in kaly
 purkle 30 Dec 2017
In reply to Wood for Trees:

Grow a pair of tits???
4
 girlymonkey 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

Having not climbed outdoors this year at all due to too much work, training a dog, poor weather and injuries, I just want to climb outdoors in 2018. I don't care what grades, I just want to get out.

Happy New year when it comes and hope you manage your goals!
 purkle 30 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

. Put some more serious effort into recovering from stupid hip/femoral nerve injury which is seriously impacting my climbing, and more seriously impacting my general fitness. Walking, especially hills, running, cycling etc are mostly out of bounds.

. Put more serious effort into getting fit for walk-ins and for next winter. F*ck I miss winter & it's here, I just can't get out into the mountains.

. More fall practice, more training in general.

. Climb more sea cliffs. Especially south cove, stonehaven area & mull of Galloway. And Wales.

. Finally read the rock warriors way.

. Keep pushing myself /head game. I can definitely lead HVS this year.
OP zv 30 Dec 2017
In reply to girlymonkey:

Thanks! I probably won't but I'm gonna gave a good time trying.
 ChrisBrooke 31 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

I’m hope to climb Fiesta de los biceps in October. The process of getting fit for that should enable me to tick a few long-standing trad aspirations (Resurrection, Tippler Direct, Western Front and lots more).

I’ve been climbing for twenty years now and have never ‘trained’ a day in my life. As a result my achievements have been hard won, fun, but modest. I’m curious to see what effect a year of focussed training will have and am going to get some coaching to help point out my weaknesses and take some of the guess work out of constructing a training program. As such my main aim is to get strong and fit without getting injured.

I had my second child this year and took up trail running (1000 miles, 37,000m ascent) as it fit better with my available time, so am starting from a pretty low base. I’m cautiously optimistic that my climbing will improve in ways it hasn’t for the last two decades.

Good luck everyone. Have a good one and stay safe.
1
 Misha 31 Dec 2017
In reply to JackM92:
Pacemaker being the far safer but noticeably harder and less historically satisfying option... So you’ve got to do both
 annar 31 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

My Aims 2018:

Increase my art skills as much as possible
Move to or at least stay a few months in Italy
Be a better person
Help my parents with their fitness
Learn to cook better
Improve all my skills/studies
Read/Finish my 22 books waiting on my desk
1
 Fraser 31 Dec 2017
In reply to zmv:

One of my main aims for 2018 is to bow out of UKC participation, other than still uploading photos and probably voting on others'.

I've tried before and failed, but this time round I'd really like to stop contributing to discussions, and ideally reading them. Too frequently these days I seem to either wind up folk or they wind me up - life's too short for either.

And this should leave me a lot more time to climb, Happy New Year!
 Jon Stewart 31 Dec 2017
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Fiesta is very easy to train for, since it's a lot like indoor climbing. Doing laps on steep juggy routes a couple of times per week (say, 20 routes per session) for a winter did it for me (from a low base, a year of very little climbing). I didn't lead the crux pitch, but it's soft for 7a and vertical on small holds, so you need to be able to do that kind of thing as well.

It's got to be one of the best routes in the world!
 JackM92 31 Dec 2017
In reply to Misha:

Out of interest how dangerous do you think right wall is? I thought Memory Lane was fairly safe so how does it compare to that?
 ChrisBrooke 31 Dec 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Thanks. If left to my own devices I’d just try to do laps on the overhang at Awesome Walls until October , but part of me feels there’s room for a bit more sophistication than that I’ve led 7a on crimps in the past so just need to get back to a reasonable level of fitness and strength. And then have the balls to leave the ground.
Post edited at 19:21
 Misha 31 Dec 2017
In reply to JackM92:
Yeah ML is ok on the tricky bit. On RW you can deck or at less take a nasty fall on the initial traverse up and right but it gets easier as it gets bolder. The middle section is a bit bold but you’re high up by then so it’s ok. Then there’s gear at the girdle ledge but nothing above that until you’re onto easier ground above the porthole - apart from an offset just before the porthole which is tricky to place and might or might not hold (one of those funny offset placements). You’re high up so no risk of decking but I wouldn’t fancy hitting the girdle ledge from a few metres up. It’s quite deep so you’d need to think about pushing out if you ping off. The climbing up to the porthole is sustained 5c, may be an easy 6a move or two, then there’s a quirky 5c move to get past the porthole onto better holds.

ML is easy to mid E3. RW is easy but bold E5 so still over a grade harder. Most people do Resurrection first as it’s safer and harder. If you can onsight Resurrection, RW should be fine.
Post edited at 20:02
 mark hounslea 01 Jan 2018
In reply to Misha:

I always felt that ML was very serious for E3. The crux is fine but I never found good gear on the ledge or on the arête above which I found tough for 5a. A fall from the top arête doesn’t bear thinking about.
 Ciro 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

1) find a job to make some money

2) find a gym near the job to get strong

3) quit job and drive to catalunia
 keith sanders 01 Jan 2018
In reply to Goucho:

I’m with you there regards the knees spent last night drinking and dancing on the beach in Benidorm till into the early hours no hang over as I’ve never had one but by f—k my knees today are knackered so am resting up on Ibrofofen surgeons suggest a new knee but looking at cartalige replacement So new year is sort out my knee and get back to somewhere near my better grades
Keith s
 HeMa 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Climbing outdoors would be great.

Maybe even next fall start developping that mixed/drytooling crag I ”found” a few years back.

Oh, and hoping to get more than 5 mornings of skiing done. Pushing my luck, but perhaps even get to use my new boots (that I have had waiting for 2 seasons now).
 TobyA 01 Jan 2018
In reply to Fraser:

> Too frequently these days I seem to either wind up folk or they wind me up

You've always struck me as one of the most level headed and fair minded of longer term UKCers!
 GridNorth 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

I'm going to spend less time on UKC especially with none climbing related posts, I'm tired of all the name calling and abuse.

Al
 DerwentDiluted 01 Jan 2018
In reply to GridNorth:

> I'm going to spend less time on UKC especially with none climbing related posts, I'm tired of all the name calling and abuse.

Bum head.
 Misha 01 Jan 2018
In reply to mark hounslea:
Agree but it’s 5a with a bit of 5b so you shouldn’t fall off... in both senses!
 Misha 01 Jan 2018
In reply to keith sanders:
Glad to hear you’re still a hell raiser
Removed User 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Climb more, canoe more, enjoy work more, drink less.
 Brass Nipples 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

To get my fitness back to 2013 levels and do a min 30 mins of intense exercise every day.
 snoop6060 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Free monster at WCJ
Positron
Onsight a 7c (actually did this on New Year’s Eve but it was so soft that not even my low morals can take it!)
More trips than I did 2017 (8)
More routes than I did 2017 (240)
Less alcohol than 2017 (way too much)
Stop smoking crack.

OP zv 01 Jan 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

Cool aims! What's the super soft 7c, gotta keep a note if I need a confidence booster
 tehmarks 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Trad: solid at VS and pushing E1 onsight (the same goal as the past three years, sigh).
Alpine: take a look at the Brenva Spur - but the below goal means it's highly unlikely I'll be in Chamonix past February this year, so I'll settle for getting up a classic TD ice route. Petit Viking would be nice.
Life: end 2018 at Sandhurst. Which essentially means lots and lots of running and press-ups for the next few months...
 snoop6060 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:
Talibania (7c)

First chains of this. When I say soft I think I actually mean the guide is wrong (probs be corrected by the new one next year).

Closer to home this is well soft tho:

Ozone Bozo (7c)

Got that second go tho!
Post edited at 21:21
 snoop6060 01 Jan 2018
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

No way you’ll not have the balls to leave the ground on fiesta. It just looks like too much fun from the ground. I climbed it severely out of shape and had a tough time at the top. It’s relentless. But fun and easily doggable if you run out of gas. As Jon says the lower 7a pitch is steady and the difficulties short lived (2 bolts). The top is so pumpy as it's almost all open handed so defo train like that! Flat, smooth jugs if that makes sense.
OP zv 01 Jan 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

haha cool, I'm actually headed to El Chorro in February! Any recommendations for a good real 7c there?
 snoop6060 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Honk Down.

Absolute class and bottom end of the grade. But still 7c so probs won't get downgraded.
 spidermonkey09 01 Jan 2018
In reply to mark hounslea:

I agree; I thought the gear protecting the crux was about 5/10, mostly because it was behind flexing flakes or in shit rock in the groove. Would probably have been fine but you never know! High up I remember climbing for a very long way before finding a bomber blue wallnut and thinking 'thank christ for that!'
 spidermonkey09 01 Jan 2018
In reply to snoop6060:
I absolutely endorse this; one of the best routes I've been on. Soft but definitely 7c for my money as the crux is right at the top and you need to be either very fit or very tall to make it feel piss; preferably both! Probably two boulder grades harder than anything else on the route.

I did it a few weeks ago so if you want beta drop me an email
Post edited at 21:44
OP zv 01 Jan 2018
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Awesome! I actually love routes with a crux high up. It means you have to climb the whole bottom part perfectly and properly put you in the zone. Thanks for the recommendation guys.
 snoop6060 01 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

You might regret saying that when you see how high up we are talking it's a big route but does have a couple of rests. Very cruxy but realistically that is only V2 (and I'm super short). But we all know how V2 feels having just climbed 35m of steep limestone.

This is right next to it and well flashable as well:
Anack Sunamun (7b)

In reply to zmv:
1) Pass my summer ML assessment!

2) Get stuck into Scottish winter climbing as much as possible - Lead some classic III's and maybe my first IV (North Buttress on the Big Buachaille would be ace!)

3) Learn how to ski at the Snow Factor in Glasgow (lessons already booked)

4) Get stuck into summer trad climbing - Climb as much as possible & hopefully try some classic multi-pitch routes like Agag's Groove, Square face, Savage Slit & Eagles Ridge.

5) Traverse the Cuillin Ridge in summer!

6) Do some classic alpine routes on my 2 week holiday to Switzerland in July - I'll be in Arolla for 1 week followed by 1 week around the Saas/Zermatt area - Maybe lead my first AD.

7) Have fun, get involved, stop leaving axes on hills and try to control my FOMO better!

Hope you all have a great 2018!
Post edited at 00:24
 walts4 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

To finally try to embrace the limestone, because after my recent jaunt to Sardinia, I now have aspirations to climb what must be yet another Piola sandbag of a route.
Obviously this means tearing myself away from the granite & actually climbing on limestone in preparation both physically & mentally for this route.

Sept ans de solitude on Punta Giradili, link below:
Punta Giradili

If its anything like the Piola route we climbed on the Masua sea cliffs (Porto Flavia) the quality & situation will be outstanding.
 steve taylor 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

I just want to climb more than the last couple of years! I've averaged 10 routes per year in that time, which is terrible.
 Si dH 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Having recently become a parent it's difficult to commit all the time I'd like to training and I've also put on quite a bit of weight, but I'm very keen to avoid letting parenthood completely stop me doing the other things I love.

First thing is to lose the podge again - I want to lose about 5 kg in the next 2-3 months. This would almost take me back to the weight I was 18 months ago.

I've been doing a Fingerboard training programme recently but that finishes next week. After a short rest I'm keen to spend some time on the Climbing Unit's new 50 degree woodie. It looks really good. I'd like to get better at that style of climbing, have fun on it with my mates and maybe set some 7s of my own.

I've got family trip to Font with some other recent-parent-friends at Easter. It'll be fairly chilled for obvious reasons, but I'd like to do at least one 7B. L'Angle Parfait (f7B) would be great.

Tick off some long term projects.
Tetris (f7C). I spent 6-7 sessions on this last winter. Fell off the last hard move once, and the penultimate hard move many times. I've done quite a bit of shoulder training in 2017 that I am hoping will make a difference.
The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+). I've spent 13 (yes you read that right!) sessions on this over the last two years and have fallen off the last hard move to match the rail twice. I was falling off on the previous move getting my feet across regularly from session 6 onwards. This problem really got in to my head for a while, my biggest challenge became psychological and I stopped enjoying it. I'd ideally like to go back with someone else to avoid slipping in to that trap again. It'd be great to finally do it.
The Mentalist (f7C). I spent 6-7 sessions on this summer 2016 and almost did it, but then injured my fingers on the crux move immediately after my best ever go. Doh!

I'd really like to do some routes if time allows. This is a bit difficult as it's much easier to only get out for a half-day so I can properly share parenting duties and spend time with my son. If I can make it work out, I'd really like to do Caviar (8a+) and even better, a couple of other 8s like Powerplant (8a).

Finally, I bought the North Wales bouldering guide last year and there is so much amazing stuff in it at crags I have never visited. It's a bit of a drive from Derby for the day, but I'd like to find a few opportunities to go there, and perhaps combine with a trip to see my parents, who live in that direction and need more attention themselves now.

I'd also like to make some more films of my bouldering at Font and in the UK, and also do some filming of the little one as he grows up.

Si
 spidermonkey09 02 Jan 2018
In reply to snoop6060:

I worked it and still didn't think that crux was v2! I thought low v4, also as a midget. But as you say, hard to judge after 35m of climbing.
 d_b 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

I have a km long route in the Julian Alps that I was rained off last year... Apart from that, getting consistent on HVS would be nice.
 jkarran 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

This year I'd like to get a few days in Font and if I still fit in my harness a couple of weekends out in the hills or at the coast, long easy trad in the sun with friends, also an evening trip along Slipstones or two.
jk
 UKB Shark 02 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

I'd be up for Eastwood

 Si dH 02 Jan 2018
In reply to ukb & bmc shark:

Cool I might take you up on that... what have you got left to do, extending the reverse?
 UKB Shark 02 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Reverse into original (Back and There). Gotta be worth soft 8b
 steveriley 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Run less, climb more. But not slow down
 RobertHepburn 02 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

1. Climb Font 7b. Did a 7a+ last year, but it really suited me, and I was 4kg lighter and a bit stronger. Need to get my weight back down and do dull but effective strength training. Also need to find some suitable 7b's - was looking at Maybe When You're Older or Sonic Blue as possibilities (Both at Bowles).

2. Climb Font 7a on more types of rock e.g. Gritstone and Font sandstone. I have done 7as on limestone and southern sandstone, and have two 7a targets that I have done as overlapping halves.

3. Climb more in Europe. I've never bouldered outside UK, France and a tiny bit of northern Spain. Swiss gneiss, Via de Mello and Albarracín are high up my wish list, but it depends on both funds and cooperation from family.



 snoop6060 02 Jan 2018
In reply to Si dH:

I’d be keen as well though I’ve only been to check it out once and found a fair bit of it quite desperate. Recently moved fairly close so thought I’d at least not dismiss it. I suspect a willing partner and a bit of beta might enthuse me
 RX-78 03 Jan 2018
In reply to zmv:

Sport Climb more outdoors in the uk (especially try in Dorset as I bought the guidebook)

Hut to hut multi-day hike in Europe with wife and daughter (maybe Italy as the food is so good).

Fit in another ski trip??

In reply to zmv:

Sort knee injury - a continuing 2 year saga.

Maintain current level of exercise with arrival of second child imminent. I managed this with child 1 by diversifying e.g. pram run rather than solo long cycle, intense boulder hit with the lamps after bedtime rather than full trad day.

Make use of the attic woody so that when I get time on the rock I can feel strong.

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