In reply to Offwidth:
> It follows to me as it shows a sad failure of climbers to understand the intrinsic nature of risk in the different climbing games and puts climbers in the same sort of illogical position as the public fall into out of ignorance. Any climber facing comparable risks to that faced by Alex on these long solo ascents, given his high skill levels, unusually sharp focus and careful practice, should be treated the same way and high objective risks will always trump any skill related subjective risks, so Alex is a good way down the list of climbers whose practices need discouraging.
I disagree on these grounds...
Pull on / step on 10 holds, small chance one breaks.
Pull / step on 100... more chance
1000 holds... more etc, the risk increases.
Don't know how many holds, 500-1000ish? on this multi-pitch.
You could break that down to a few months worth of weekend trad, just 1 weekend day a week, or less with sport, a few weeks of routes, just guessing, but how often do you experience hand / foothold breakage, of something that may even previously have seemed solid?
It doesn't always make u fall, but it has for some.
Post edited at 20:55