UKC

Andy Kirkpatrick abs off Troll Wall

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 TheseKnivesMan 30 Sep 2011
http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/

Always thought he was gonna make it, but good effort!
 Jonny2vests 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan:

Epic blog entry.
 Simon Caldwell 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan:
He as good as did make it didn't he? Just did a different last pitch.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan:

I have enjoyed the blog entries hugely and am really greatful I have never had to put myself through that kind of wringer! Fantastic effort.


Chris
 pebbles 30 Sep 2011
In reply to jonny2vests: "Went up a way, clipped a bolt and placed 3 beaks in a row (I’m guessing I missed some holes), only to realise to my horror I’d been clipping the wrong rope (the end coming from the rope bag - not the belay), meaning if I’d fallen I’d have gone sixty metres plus. "

shudders
 Alan Dixon 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan:

Such a great read... was following the Blog online... thought it was really gripping. Looking forward to getting Cold Wars as well... is it out yet?
 Dave 88 30 Sep 2011
In reply to pebbles:

Yeah he's definately a few sandwiches short! What a hero.
In reply to Alan Dixon:
> (In reply to TheseKnivesMan)
>
> Such a great read... was following the Blog online... thought it was really gripping. Looking forward to getting Cold Wars as well... is it out yet?

yes, i saw a copy in joe brown's the other day
 pebbles 30 Sep 2011
In reply to Dave 88: not that many sandwiches - his blog says he took the sane decision and abbed off at the end when he found himself off route
 Guy 30 Sep 2011
In reply to Alan Dixon:
> (In reply to TheseKnivesMan)
>
> Such a great read... was following the Blog online... thought it was really gripping. Looking forward to getting Cold Wars as well... is it out yet?

Think you can get it on his site (think he gets a better cut of the money that way too which is a good way to support a top alpinist).
 JLS 30 Sep 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs:

>"am really greatful I have never had to put myself through that kind of wringer"

Seems a curious way to make a living – Give yourself and family a hard time then go tell funny stories about it later.

While I have respect for technical ability, courage etc,etc, even find his tales very amusing, I can’t be the only one not wholly comfortable with Andy’s (ad)ventures. There seems to be an element of “Big Brother House” tasteless-ness about it than I can’t ignore.

I apologise if this offends anyone, but for good or ill, this is how I feel.
 Dave 88 30 Sep 2011
In reply to pebbles:

Yeah off route....whilst climbing Troll Wall....solo!

Buzzing for Cold Wars.
 dr_botnik 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan: really gripping read. would rather be saying "shame I didn't summit" than "shame about the accident" for sure!
Mots d'Invers 30 Sep 2011
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> >"am really greatful I have never had to put myself through that kind of wringer"
>
> Seems a curious way to make a living – Give yourself and family a hard time then go tell funny stories about it later.
>
> While I have respect for technical ability, courage etc,etc, even find his tales very amusing, I can’t be the only one not wholly comfortable with Andy’s (ad)ventures. There seems to be an element of “Big Brother House” tasteless-ness about it than I can’t ignore.
>
> I apologise if this offends anyone, but for good or ill, this is how I feel.

Doesn't offend me, in fact I have no right to be offended, but I wonder if you feel the same about motor racing, horse racing, etc? What about transatlantic yachting?

 smithaldo 30 Sep 2011
In reply to JLS: indeed yes, climbing the troll wall solo does have an element of a bunch of fame hungry nowters going into a house and being filmed 24/7 talking rubbish for a couple of months about it.

errrrrrrrrrrrr?
 philhilo 30 Sep 2011
In reply to JLS: Funny we have some people in our club who complain about people sending out write ups about significant trips, routes, adventures. I always suggest that if they don't want to know about what other people do then don't read them (and don't join a club). Also a bit of 'what you do is crazy/unjustifiably risky' according to my ability/knowledge in the argument, not often heard from climbers themselves.
 pneame 30 Sep 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan:
Phew. That last post, where he decides to rap.... that's pretty harrowing stuff. Good decision.

Incredibly bold, given the history of that wall....
 Alan Dixon 30 Sep 2011
In reply to pneame:

I will buy it directly from his website. My non climber GF bought me tickets to his book tour in manchester so may get it signed!
 rgd1977 01 Oct 2011
In reply to TheseKnivesMan: His new book is available here on eBay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cold-Wars-Andy-Kirkpatrick-HardCover-NEW-FREE-P-H...

Bit steep at £140.73 But free postage and packaging tho!
 franksnb 02 Oct 2011
In reply to JLS: andy k posts here, so potentially you may of offended him. being in the public eye open oneself to this kind of criticism but i wouldn't expect it from a fellow climber.

Removed User 02 Oct 2011
In reply to franksnb:

I doubt he's easily offended
 ablackett 02 Oct 2011
In reply to rgd1977:

Or £15 here.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cold-Wars-Andy-Kirkpatrick-New-/200656990256?_trk...

Don't know where they get the pre publication copies from.
 Luke90 02 Oct 2011
In reply to franksnb:
Obviously none of us can speak for him but I strongly suspect Andy Kirkpatrick wouldn't be offended by what JLS was saying because, from what I can tell based on the pre-release blurb I've read, his newest book is largely about questioning whether what he does is actually worth the cost to him and those he loves.

"Psychovertical was a book about a man who is struggling: against the wall, against himself, but who wins through. The story is a hundred thousand word answer to the question: 'Why do you climb?' Cold Wars asks a different question: 'What is the price?'

He has more success, but the savagery and danger of these encounters comes at huge personal cost. Questioning his commitment to his chosen craft, he is torn between family life and the dangerous path he has chosen."
 JLS 02 Oct 2011
In reply to Luke90:

I haven't made my point well. To try to clarify... I think perhaps my discomfort is associated with the level of emotional honesty expressed in Andy's writing/blogging. I'm guessing it will make great reading in twenty years time in a "The Games Climbers Play" type book but, for me, now, it's all a bit too raw... I'm not sure how healthy it is to offer the world up to the minute family anguish.

We are all just trying to make our way in the world and it's not always easy but some people seem to take a perversely difficult route.

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