/ Babbacombe bolts

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Motown - on 03 May 2013
When did these three routes at the 'secluded' Babbacombe crag get bolted?

Not really looking for Cocytus style argument, but wandered what the plans were down there. It's too pleasant a location to encourage more traffic, isn't it? Are there intentions to bolt more - Neophron looks superb and wold be a shame to bolt anything at that end of the face.
misterb - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Will Cat:
The 3 routes in question were bolted last year.

I don't know the history of the routes apart from the fact that they probably haven't seen more than 1 or 2 ascents since they were put up in the 90's.

All of the routes relied on pegs and small thread's to a greater or lesser extent.

All the original pegs and tat are in a very poor state and it would be beneficial to take out said rusty metal work.

The access is a little awkward down to the crag so i doubt it's going to get busy down there and seeing as anstey's is closer anyway i suspect most sport climbers would be going there rather than exile buttress.

I have taken over the moderator's role recently and updated the crag to show the routes as sport climbs and as far as i know no one has been down there to repeat them.

The routes look good and with it being dry the last week they should be climbable now.

Best get down there before someone comes down and rips all the bolts out.The easier route does look like a reasonable onsight trad proposition but the other two just look desperate and bold , especially with just the insitu rotting pegs and tat.

It would be interesting to know whether they have ever seen an onsight?

Can i please state that i did not bolt these routes and have no particular feelings towards "should the bolts be there" or not.


Nick B
Motown - on 03 May 2013
In reply to Will Cat: Thanks Nick. Was planning to get down and have a go at some point. Access should limit numbers, although I have always been down there an alternative way to the one identified in your photos. Will check your route as it's probably preferable to my muddy slope.

My trad legs do not stretch to the fear offer on this buttress...

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