In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Agreed mate, yeah I did Psycho at Caley a few years ago and it had chalk all over it. I was probably the tenth person to do it that day.
I was actually with Leo Houlding when he tried to repeat If 6 was 9 in 1994 just two years after its first ascent. The route was dirty and needed a proper clean. Needless to say although Leo had done The Torture Board E7 6C the week before this route was something else.
Routes Like Echo Wall will probably have to wait for a decade or more for a repeat just becasuse of the massive walk in and the fact that its only in condition for around 1 month a year.
Dont get me wrong when I was bouldering around V9 I tried The New Statesman on tope rope and couldn't touch it ha ha. Oh and I certainly wouldn't want to lead it.