/ Belay device recommendations
Best trad climbing belay device for general use and abseiling?
A Petzl Reverso or DMM Pivot will allow you to use guide mode which can be quite useful sometimes. I use the Petzl.
If you want guide mode then a dmm pivot is excellent.
+1 for the Pivot, I also regularly use a GriGri for sport.
ATC XP over the Petzl Reverso, definitely. XP has a hhol at the back big enough to move the screwgate of a big HMS krab through which the Reverso does bot, also from having used both devices for about two years each the reverso quickly develops burrs where the krab taps it while belaying, these then become a knife-like cutting edge.
Reverso or Pivot for multipitch/trad for sure. Nothing else is as good with half ropes IMO.
Agreed, I wouldn't buy another Reverso for this reason. Wore down to sharp edge really quickly.
Bucking the trend, I've had a Reverso since the Reverso3 was released, and I've had my current one since 2011. Can't say I've ever had an issue with sharp edges or burrs that have needed filing.
Same here - well used reverso, no sharp edges.
Re another thread. Don't get one that helps you break.
DMM Mantis - it works on smaller half ropes up to larger singles and it's really light.
If you want guide mode I'd get a DMM Pivot if not a Black Diamod ATC XP is more durable imo (regret giving mine away).
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