UKC

/ Belay device recommendations

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marky - on 16 Apr 2018

Best trad climbing belay device for general use and abseiling?

jimtitt - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

ATC XP

Andy Johnson - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

DMM Mantis

olddirtydoggy - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

A Petzl Reverso or DMM Pivot will allow you to use guide mode which can be quite useful sometimes. I use the Petzl.

becauseitsthere - on 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

If you want guide mode then a dmm pivot is excellent. 

alanblyth - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

+1 for the Pivot, I also regularly use a GriGri for sport.

 
Roberttaylor - on 17 Apr 2018

ATC XP over the Petzl Reverso, definitely. XP has a hhol at the back big enough to move the screwgate of a big HMS krab through which the Reverso does bot, also from having used both devices for about two years each the reverso quickly develops burrs where the krab taps it while belaying, these then become a knife-like cutting edge.

Alpinetrek.co.uk - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Reverso or Pivot for multipitch/trad for sure. Nothing else is as good with half ropes IMO. 

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to Roberttaylor:

Agreed, I wouldn't buy another Reverso for this reason. Wore down to sharp edge really quickly.

Post edited at 23:29
teh_mark on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Bucking the trend, I've had a Reverso since the Reverso3 was released, and I've had my current one since 2011. Can't say I've ever had an issue with sharp edges or burrs that have needed filing.

gravy - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to teh_mark:

Same here - well used reverso, no sharp edges.

Andy Say - on 18 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Marky,

Re another thread.  Don't get one that helps you break.

springfall2008 - on 19 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

DMM Mantis - it works on smaller half ropes up to larger singles and it's really light.

 

Mike505 on 19 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

If you want guide mode I'd get a DMM Pivot if not a Black Diamod ATC XP is more durable imo (regret giving mine away).


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