In reply to Fredt:
> (In reply to r0x0r.wolfo)
> Answer. It all depends on what's available. If there's a big boulder I walk the rope round it and back to the stance and tie a figure 8 to a krab on my harness. Can be a faff in the same way as clove-hitching the anchor, but its my number one preferred belay.
I did this at weekend actually (topped out a sport route). Except replacing the figure 8 with a clove hitch, but it can be a faff either way as the rope gets jammed on the boulder and/or friction so adjusting is a bit of a pain either way.
> I'm surprised at the number of times I see big slings around boulders, so introducing at least two more links in the chain, but justifiable if you're short of rope.
Yeah true, sometimes I will lob a sling (or two if I'm feeling generous) over a boulder as it can (sometimes) be a little quicker to set up/adjust/pack down or if I am using something else as a backup aswell. Quick check for edges is good either way, doesn't matter how big a boulder is if it cuts your sling
.
> Next preference is a sling round a boulder, or around a chockstone or a tree. Krab on the sling, then my original dilemma.
> Next preference is a bomber hex or chock, ditto dilemma.
To be honest, this was more in the line of what I was asking about. But re-reading your O.P I guess you did just run back and forth adjusting the knot, you probably got this pretty wired though. I understand this rarely being a problem on multipitch but I was sort of wondering how often you topped out a climb to find the anchors were 10m back and then thinking 'there must be a better way' until the thread on UKC. You hint at mainly climbing elsewhere?
> Last resort is a cam.
Fair enough, they walk, more to go wrong, want to save them for the next pitch etc etc. For pure speed I sometimes use them a little more liberally on belays than I should.
> I have noticed on many busy days at Stanage, that few consider these options, as if the default is two pieces of gear. Is this a training thing?
To an extent, some people will place fiddly nuts/make a complicated 6 point anchor for the hell of it. It's their time they are wasting I suppose, though maybe the practice stands them in good stead for leading.
> All the replies to my OP seem to indicate a split in opinions, so I feel justified in asking people's thoughts.
>
> And while discussing belay position, I'll finish with one last observation. Again on busy days on Stanage, I often see belayers sitting with their feet over the edge, or sitting sideways with straight legs, i.e. without feet braced against anything.
> When I started we had to use waist belays, and we usually stood up, feet and legs braced to take any strain, or if sitting, you still had the feet braced against something. We'd avoid weighing the anchors, they were more a backup for holding you if you were pulled off your stance. The belayer took the weight by using the 'give' in the legs and waist. I am aware that direct belays may be necessary, especially in cramped multipitch stances, but I would always avoid a direct belay wherever possible. (And its a useful method to know when you have no anchor points.
I think the attitude towards belaying has changed. I do know that I will effectively direct belay unless I have some doubt about my anchors. Of course if I can arrange a better belay I will just do that over bracing. This is just more comfortable and I feel that I am more patient and concentrate more as a result. Even a 2nd fall with the odd bit of slack is held comfortably and the belayer has less strain on himself to be worrying about. It should impossible for them to be seriously pulled out of position in a way that will adversely affect his or her belaying if connected tight to the right anchors. I think the change has happened just because of changes to ropes/gear and the availability of bomber placements on most well rated climbs. Also, some 2nds I know tend 'work' routes more often, often not being able to follow the route without rests. This would grow tiresome rather quickly if I did not arrange most belays to be relaxed and comfortable.
You seem to be well aware of whether your belays are up to scratch or not, so one could argue that in 98% of situations there is no reason
not to belay in that manner