In reply to Ciro:
> (In reply to tk421)
> [...]
>
> From that article:
>
> "Arresting a fall requires an almost instinctive response, there isn't enough time for the fine motor skill required to allow for controlled rope slippage, the risk is you will drop them altogether (note: this can be done but requires gloves, a figure of eight as a belay device, and preferably a back-up belayer.)"
>
I haven't read the article but the bit you quote clearly says it is a bad idea and basically says what I have said a load of times.
> I regularly do this without gloves, or a figure of 8, or a backup belayer. I have been doing so for several years, and I've never came close to dropping anybody. I've also got friends who do it, and seen instructors doing it at the wall, and haven't seen any of them coming close to dropping someone.
>
Fair enough. If you belay that way and you feel safe and in control then that is up to you. Personally I would not let you belay me in that fashion. Another thing is that I have never seen anyone actually doing what you describe nor has anyone I know ever tried to belay in this manner. I sport climb a lot, see a lot of fall etc. and only ever see the method I have described. Occasionally I see some crap belaying but mostly at the wall and mostly by people who don't sport climb outdoors. Obviously this is a generalisation.
Do you do a lot of sport climbing and do you regularly fall/hold falls? I only ask because I have looked at your profile and you seem competent and therefore I am surprised at your responses.This isn't a challenge to an argument just a genuine question about background.
> You can argue about whether it's good practice or not, but to say it's a myth is demonstrably wrong... people are out there doing it and not dying.
Okay it's not a myth. People do lots of things in terms of belaying that I personally don't like and most don't die. Personally I don't believe it is good practice.
Cheers Dave