UKC

/ best catches on film

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Dominic Green - on 06 Dec 2018

Hi any suggestions would be gratefully welcomed.

I'm trying to explain to a non climber some of the aspects of belaying - especially with respect to sketchy leads and big falls (in particular multi pitch).

Can anyone suggest best footage of a belay catch on film. Things like coping with a bigger leader, soft catches and just holding big falls. Including old school belaying!

thanks 

 

D

Fakey Rocks - on 06 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

The recently posted footage of ondra on El Cap shows quite a whipper onto good trad gear, but see how the belayer, on a hanging belay, takes the fall ... He gets pulled quite violently into the rock!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kZDukn5JnE

There's plenty of scary to watch footage on u tube if you search something like big whippers , including trad gear ripping, ropes cutting, inverted falls, etc, some very near misses there.

If you want to watch safe big sports falls again, watch Ondra, Chris Sharma, etc on you tube.

There's footage of catching falls softly / dynamic belaying in climbing walls too if you search it.

Post edited at 21:34
Max factor - on 06 Dec 2018
In reply to Fakey Rocks:

Search for the petzl belaying videos linked on a recent thread I started on assisted braking devices.  Will show you plenty about fall factors, and the forces on the belayer in a fall. There is loads on their website, may cover dynamic belaying too.

jonathandavey - on 06 Dec 2018
spidermonkey09 - on 06 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

Look for the footage of McClure on Rhapsody. Sonnie Trotter is belaying him and there's a great shot of him belaying the crux section. There's loops of rope on the floor in front of ST, he watches them like a hawk as McClure falls off, and as the rope comes tight he jumps into the air. Beautiful work!

SenzuBean - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

Go nuts: https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/

It's a series of massive whippers that got caught on film (15 pages of 18 per page! - apparently!).

Minneconjou Sioux on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

Stone Monkey

Mark Collins - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

I remember a couple doing a series of vlogs I think about a year or more ago, which explored belaying techniques, hopefully this will remind someone on here who can send you a link. I think in the first video, the female fell off a short but very overhanging sport route and her shoulder hit the rock on swing, and subsequent experiments showed that it was possible to catch her softly and prevent her from hitting the rock. They then went onto do some more experiments on a bridge I think, to make the conditions more consistent I suppose. Sorry for my sketchiness, hopefully someone'll be along soon to fill in the blanks.

It's also worth seeking out the ascents of Rhapsody for differing belay strategies.

ChrisBrooke - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj2ql4C4Sm0 at about 3'35". A decent whip off Moon Walk at Curbar. Well held. 

McKEuan - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

Find the fall James Pearson takes on Walk Of Life..... terrifyingly huge!!!

Mark Collins - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

Wasn't so difficult after all:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjoRtkWv2nQ

graeme jackson - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Minneconjou Sioux:

> Stone Monkey


This.  Can't remember the belayer but he gives dawes enough slack on Parthian shot that he very nearly decks it.  Must buy a VHS player so I can watch that again.

pasbury on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

There’s a recent one of someone taking a huge lob off Lord of the Flies - Nico Favresse?

stp - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

The 'Day in Nature' Youtube channel has a whole series of videos about lead falls: the best way to belay, overcoming the fear of falling, how to practice falls, what can go wrong etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCnbbOxqwPK2lfkEP3FzIf2Q

Post edited at 17:25
Fellover - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to pasbury:

Think you're probably thinking of Nico Favresse falling off Nightmayer, don't have a link though.

pasbury on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Fellover:

Thats the one;

https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=3686

A butt-clencher but no evidence of how the belayer dealt with it.

 

ericinbristol - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to jonathandavey:

Yow! I knew about Weeksy's terror lob but didn't know it was on film. Eek!

Rampikino - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to graeme jackson:

I thought that was Gaia at Black Rocks.

Dave Todd - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to graeme jackson:

Off the top of my head I think it was Bob Drury...

'There's belaying, and there's ****ing belaying!'...

FactorXXX - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to Rampikino:

> I thought that was Gaia at Black Rocks.

It was on the route that became Parthian Shot and the belayer was Bob Dryer.

Dave Todd - on 07 Dec 2018
In reply to graeme jackson:

Last few seconds of this shows the fall...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_xOUKBMqaE

Dominic Green - on 08 Dec 2018

thanks for those, the ones that show the catch from the belayer are the ones I'm most keen to find - thanks for all of them all the same. 

How not to belay/ perhaps also portray climbing on film(!):-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9B7tjXbhnog

 

Post edited at 13:01
Dan Arkle - on 08 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

This is my favourite belaying film. A hard grit route, way into the no fall zone, but amazing belaying saves the day

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhxEMh6upSo

John Stainforth - on 08 Dec 2018
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Yes, superb belayer.

Dominic Green - on 11 Dec 2018
In reply to Dan Arkle:

That's an ace catch!

nice find

 

PaulJepson - on 11 Dec 2018
In reply to Dominic Green:

There are some good videos of whippers of Masters Edge. Only gear at half-height and crux at the top make for an interesting combo.


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