UKC

Hi I am going to Indian creek this year, and am looking for stuff to do: I want to make a list of the all time best have to do climbs to do, from 5.9 - 5.13. Anyone been and got anything for the list??

Thanks Oli

In reply to olilyon: Supercrack (5.10) is a mega-classic

In reply to olilyon: Supercrack is the obvious choice. The Incredible Hand Crack is also very good (friend size 2.5 size) and, if you can hand jam, much easier despite being a similar grade.

Bunny slope.5.9 and it's in a quiet area

In reply to olilyon:

Also, Chocolate Corner would be a worthwhile intoduction for a first time visitor

In reply to olilyon: These are great thanks, a bit more of an insite, am looking more for real classic 5.12 - 13, then 5.9 - 11 for chill out days, have been to the creek a long time ago, but cant remember any climbs...

In reply to olilyon: Presumably you have looked at:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah/Moab/In...

In reply to olilyon: Also Coyne Crack (5.11d) looks a great route expecially if you are not a fan of wide cracks. I didn't have time to try it as we weren't there long enough.

In reply to olilyon:

You can't go far wrong doing all the starred routes in the guidebook - classics without exception!

Don't forget to do some towers too - Castleton area is best introduction.

In reply to olilyon: Wow that is perfect thanks, the website link is really good and coyne crack looks immense!! cant wait. Yes casleton tower looks really good definatly on the list. Thanks again
oli

In reply to olilyon:

Fine Jade (E3ish) and Jah Man (E2ish) on the neighbouring towers are truly brilliant days out.

In reply to olilyon: to be honest any 3 star route in the book is going to be amazing. It really depends what siZe you like. Choose a good looking crag and get stuck in!

In reply to GDes:

Doesn't the guide only have no stars (mostly very good) or one star (brilliant)?

In reply to olilyon:

Although if by 'this year' you mean 2012, Utah in general may be a bit cold at the moment. There was snow in the San Rafael Swell area recently

In reply to Robert Durran:

Hmmm, rather reminiscent of the YDS grading system...

In reply to jon:

Not really; the starred routes are generally better than the unstarred ones.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Well, in that it only gives you part of the information that you need, but could give you more, it is.

In reply to jon:

I see what you mean. I thought you measnt that it didn't tell you which routes were better just like the YDS doesn't tell you which routes are harder.

Actually I think the one star system and the YDS both work at Indian Creek (with alowance for hand size).

In reply to Robert Durran:

So my attempts at trying to get you frothing at the mouth are failing?

In reply to jon:

How could on froth at the mouth while day-dreaming about Indian Creek?

In reply to Robert Durran:

Well I obviously have failed. I didn't actually like Indian Creek.

In reply to jon:
I didn't actually like Indian Creek.

WHAT!! Are you stil trying to wind me up?

In reply to Robert Durran:

No. I really didn't like it. I found it monotonous - bit like cascade ice. Despite supplementing my double set of cams with those of a friend, I was woefully short. I watched people virtually top roping every move with their set of 15 #3s whilst I ran it out on my meagre rack. It occurred to me that it would be far better if it was sportingly bolted and cams were banned. Seriously!

Quite honestly I thought the two towers that we did were far better - Castleton (classic) and Moses (Primrose). I'd like to have done more towers but in fact we were only down there waiting for bad weather to clear from the Tetons.

In reply to GeoffRadcliffe: Having led Supercrack, it is a perfect route, but would still only warrant VS/HVS in the Peak. (That is the grade I was leading when I did it, with only 4 correct size cams, and no walking them up the crack, put them in, clip, climb past and do the run out!)It is technically easier than, say Minus Ten, if a little longer.

In reply to jon:

Now you are definitely trying to wind me up!


Yes. The towers are one of the best climbing experiences out there. That's what I really want to go back for.

In reply to Robert Durran:

No. I was trying to wind you up about the YDS.

I did think this was fabulous, though: youtube.com/watch?v=rkbD73oEu_Q&

In reply to jon:

I think I prefer this one; the cam fumbling is first rate: youtube.com/watch?v=j63aJbzgORk&

In reply to Robert Durran:

Yes, I've seen it. I think the only thing it shows is how incredibly hard the route is and how cool Haydn Kennedy looks when he climbs it. I like to watch people climbing really well. I can fumble cams perfectly well myself!