/ Best fully treated 10mm (<0.2mm>) for new climber
Hi guys and girls I’m new to sport climbing and have a 30 meter rope (Mammut galaxy) for indoor lead. I want to get a 60 or 70 meter rope for outdoor lead climbing. I know I can just get something like the Beal karma 9.8mm 60m for £70 from go out doors or the mammut galaxy for £75 BUT! I would like a 60 or 70 meter rope that is sheath bonded and dry treated. The reason being, I want this rope as a projecting and workhorse rope for a long time And will have something else for redpointing my hardest routes later on down the line. Money isn’t really an issue due to the nature of the ropes job and longevity.
Recommendations/advice are needed
If you're new to climbing and just looking to sport climb then it really doesn't matter all that much. The rope will become fuzzy and damaged - just get a thick, cheap rope and retire it when it gets worn and damaged. There's no point in fancy pant features for this application. In my experience mammut galaxy ropes last really well.
Beal Tiger seems ideal. Unicore, dry treated etc. 10mm so not super light but it'll certainly last.
Must say I've had a galaxy for 5 years and it's still fine, although it's been chopped a few times. Cracking ropes.
I understand this but I don’t see the point in not getting a rope that is more durable and will stand up to much tougher abuse, especially for a first sport rope. It costs about £50 more and you get longer lasting, tougher rope.
Yeah this seems to fit the bill pretty perfectly. I’m just thinking why wouldn’t I get a more durable rope. It means when i feel the need for a thiner/lighter rope for redpoints I will still want this as a project rope
> I understand this but I don’t see the point in not getting a rope that is more durable and will stand up to much tougher abuse, especially for a first sport rope. It costs about £50 more and you get longer lasting, tougher rope.
I would say that the Galaxy lasts extremely well, it's hard to see how a more expensive rope could do better and provide better value for money.
> Yeah this seems to fit the bill pretty perfectly. I’m just thinking why wouldn’t I get a more durable rope. It means when i feel the need for a thiner/lighter rope for redpoints I will still want this as a project rope
The most efficient use of your money is to get a relatively thick, cheap, untreated rope. However, if you have the extra money to spend, and you feel good about dry treatments, etc., then go for it, and enjoy all those positive feelings about your lovely new rope! At the end of the day, it's up to you which rope you buy (they're all very strong, after all).
You pay more for skinny light weight ropes with fancy treatments - they don't last as long (because they are skinny) and you don't need the fancy treatments. What you're after is a basic, thick rope with lots of fall reserves and a thick sheath. It will last longer. You don't really go sport climbing in the rain or snow so dry treatments don't really matter, you're not doing high end alpine or ice or trad so the weight doesn't matter that much. You're planning to project on the rope so it will take falls and dogging so you want a chunky sheath and large fall reserve - usually the preserve of thick chunky cheap ropes.
I had a bottom-end price Beal which went floppy after 5yrs - which they might say is the normal lifetime; defo worth spending more if you're happy with 10yr usage
As others have mentioned, for a first time rope I wouldn't be too bothered by its treatment.
Dry treating: probably only useful if climbing in the Winter as you will most likely be in the Cafe if it's raining at other times of the year.
I have two 8.6mm 60m Beal Cobras of UNICORE construction. See the video of how much stronger they are compared to standard Kern and Mantel types regarding shredding.
Several manufacturers produce UNICORE ropes now.
One of the cheaper Edelrid 9.8mm ropes will do the job. I wouldn't spend extra for fancy treatments and I'd expect it to get trashed and need to get a few meters chopped off well inside a year especially if used for fall practice.
One thing to consider is how well matched the rope is to your belay device. A thick, relatively inflexible rope is a pain with a GriGri, it will lock up all the time where with a flexible 9.8mm it's really smooth and easy paying out but still totally reliable locking up on an actual fall.
The nice thing about the Tiger is that it's full 10mm but has all the bells and whistles of the skinny ropes. Definitely bombproof.
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