UKC

Concrete chimney or dream of white horses?

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger and britomartis

In reply to Rory Shaw:

Gogarth

In reply to cheek to the rock:

scavenger

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Dream over Britomartis in my limited knowledge. More history, more scale, more fear the first time you venture onto the slab.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Was gonna say the queue at McDonalds but I reckon that deserves E1

In reply to Removed User:

I've been told that the top of concrete chimney is weird and scarey,and better than britomartis or dream ????

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Gogarth is E1! Not sure many would give it HVS.

Scavenger is definitely best out of those mentioned thus far in my opinion.

Having put off climbing it for ages, I finally got around to climbing Concrete Chimney a few weeks back. Turns out it doesn't actually involve any chimneying, or concrete for that matter, and is excellent. I haven't done the link up yet but I reckon the Concrete Dream has got to be a contender for best HVS at Gogarth.

In reply to cheek to the rock:
Nothing weird about the top pitch of Concrete chimney, although the line is not obvious at first. Thought Concrete was best, followed by Britomartis, then Dream.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

neither - the main cliff girdle

In reply to cheek to the rock:

I thought that the direct version of Scavenger Pitch 2 was absolutely stonking.

However, the other pitches of Scavenger are not special. Wen Pitch 1/ Concrete Chimney pitches 2 & 3 gives a 'bottom to top' climb with more consistency.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Green Slab, Concrete Chimney or Scavenger Direct.

In reply to Pagan:

Green Slab is excellent, but clearly only VS

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger and Dream of White Horses get my vote, Hustler is really good as well.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Scavenger is the best I've done there but having not yet done concrete chimney I cannot say its the best. Dream is pretty darn special but scavenger is a true Hvs experience.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Mousetrap (In my original guide at least) Failing that Concrete Chimney

In reply to victim of mathematics:

I was going along with the faint-hearted majority for once just so I could get it into this thread.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

The strand.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Thanks i hadn't considered scavenger but i will now have a good look at it.Only got Sunday,Monday and my partner will want to drag me up some e2 and god forbid e3,s.So i need to choose wisely when its my go.

In reply to john morrissey:

You climb up a couple of slabby corner things, then traverse right and up a bit of a wall... As that eases off onto grass, the birds swoop, vomit, try to take your eyes out. Is that classic?

In reply to victim of mathematics:


I obviously got Green Slab all wrong, I thought it was about E2 4b, crap pro and belays and the finish was seriously life threatening. And that is from a Swanage and Gogarth regular. Mousetrap was grades easier.

In reply to Al Evans:

If a HVS leader got on mousetrap they would be terrified

In reply to John Stainforth:

My thoughts entirely. And to add to that, history alone is not enough to sustain a classic.

In reply to Al Evans:

Agree with you about the finish on Green Slab, like climbing chocolate brownie and cookie pieces swirled in ice cream.

In reply to cheek to the rock:

Concrete Chimney for me, any day. I'm sure it would get far more plaudits if it had a more enticing name.

In reply to Al Evans:

To be fair, the presence or absence of the pegs must make a huge difference to the feel of the route. Making a committing move into the chimney on pitch will feel totally different

In reply to Al Evans:
When I did it ( mousetrap) there was no sign of any fixed gear. just rusty marks on the wall. Brilliant route just very committing. The climbing is easy just run out and scary.