UKC

/ Best sport crags accessible by public transport

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morphomouse - on 15 May 2018

Sorry if this exists on the forum already but my searches didn't yield any results.

We have no car at the moment so slightly reliant on public transport and looking to get to sport crags easily accessible by public transport from London (ideally no more than 3-4 hrs to get there).

Any heads up would be much appreciated.

Tyler - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Llandudno has a mainline station which is within walking distance of Pen Trwyn (25 mins walk from start of Marine Drive). You can get a connection from Chester, not sure about Crewe which might be better. 

Kid Spatula - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Giggleswick, or Robin Proctors Scar

London --> Leeds --> Giggleswick/Clapham respectively.

 

Sir Chasm - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Malham and Kilnsey. Train to Skipton, bus from Skipton.

morphomouse - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Masson Lees in Matlock was also recommended to me by a friend. Happy to visit smaller crags like this.

1
Hat Dude on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

 Train, London Waterloo - Weymouth then bus, Weymouth - Isle of Portland

climber34neil - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Train to matlock then walk up the hill to the crag of dreams ! ( Don't forget your axes)

Jon Stewart - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Kid Spatula:

> Giggleswick, or Robin Proctors Scar

OMG. Imagine the disappointment after that journey.

To the OP: just get on a plane?

 

1
Paz - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Dorset and South Wales.

I went to Portland a few times via train and bus from Weymouth.  some people seem to think it's the best sport climbing in the UK.  I like vertical walls, but even I don't like them that much.  One of the random buses to Swanage from Wareham used to stop at both Matravers villages for Winspit and Dancing Ledge.  Camp in the one with the Square and Compass.

One of the most convenient places might be Taffs Well, or any number of other crags in the valleys.  Nearly 15 years ago I walked over the hill to the Gap once and had a great day.  Witch's Point and Ogmore're doable with a bus from Bridgend.

Also, I don't know how long the train to Torquay takes, but Ansteys is awesome.

Cheddar is doable but trickey.  The bus from Bristol takes well over an hour, but a bus from Wells or Weston might be quite fast -check where the Berry's fast coaches to somerset stop at.  Brean Down might well be easier just to go on a dead easy flat cycle from Burnham & Highbridge or Weston.  If cycling and camping from, Weston stop off and get some Janet's Jungle Juice.

There's various stuff in Bristol now too, but mainly locals' crags.  The marginally less chossy New Quarry in Avon Gorge, the rejuvenated Leigh Woods on the other side of the river, and the in need of a clean, but good climbing sandstone of the Frome Valley - you're best off cycling to it all.

Post edited at 22:13
Paz - on 15 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Thinking about it, if you are keen to cycle, given that the fast train to Swansea is indeed surprisingly fast, the best venues might be among the Gower sport crags - they're quite good when they're in condition.

Bulls Crack - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Morphomouse is being sustainable! 

morphomouse - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Morphomouse is being sustainable! 

Read 'poor and desperate'.

rockcat - on 16 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

You can get a train from London directly to Colwyn Bay in 3 hours. That gives you access to some of the accessible A55 sport crags nearby. Penmaen Head, Castle Inn, Llanddulas Cave etc.

oldie - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Paz:

  One of the random buses to Swanage from Wareham used to stop at both Matravers villages for Winspit and Dancing Ledge.  Camp in the one with the Square and Compass.

Unfortunately the infrequent bus to Worth Matravers (Square and Compass) no longer runs. Regular 40 runs between Wareham and Swanage via Langton Matravers for Dancing Ledge and Hedbury,  camp at Tom's Field or other. Winspit probably best reached getting off before Langton M. 

Presley Whippet on 16 May 2018
In reply to morphomouse:

Look into car hire, if there are 2 of you travelling it can be cheaper than public transport. It is also way more time efficient, enabling you to do much more climbing on your trip. Even if the hire and fuel cost more than public transport, the cost per route climbed will be smaller. 


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