UKC

Best Stanage routes <=HVS; no stars

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Deadeye 15 Apr 2019

A couple of easy days beckoning.

What oft overlooked gems are there at Stanage HVS and below?

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

I'd say there probably aren't any 'real' overlooked gems on perhaps the most heavily explored and visited cliff in the UK,

Chris (1082 routes ticked at the last count)

1
In reply to Deadeye:

Wall Buttress (HVS 5a)

This one is quite good... It gets a star in Rockfax, but I think is no star in the BMC. 

Deadeye 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Thanks - the comments make interesting reading!

In reply to Deadeye:

I did it as part of the 1989 VS challenge and thought it was quite good. I think I might have done it since too.

In fact if you want a day (or two - depending on your pace) exploring some of Stanage's more quirky corners (as well as some turbo, mega classics), the 1989 VS Challenge is ace.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=437

 Offwidth 15 Apr 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

Paping About Like a Man With No Arms (VS 4c) will test you .... a real good week can be had doing Stanage Popular no star VS climbs. No bad ones and never a queue.

 Simon Caldwell 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

No classics, but I thought these were all worthwhile and might get a star elsewhere

Cheque (HVD 4a)

Ferret's Crack (S 4a)

Clare (S 4b)

Staircase Rib (D)

Ice Cream Flakes (HVD)

Angus (S 4a)

 acrkirby 16 Apr 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

Im possibly the only one who enjoys it but Grovel? You Don't Know the Meaning of the Word! (VS 4c) is great fun in my mind, if just for the sheer weirdness of it

 Simon Caldwell 16 Apr 2019
In reply to acrkirby:

Now in my wishlist


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