UKC

Best VS in the Cairngorms

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 DaveHK 21 Sep 2020

Did Scabbard yesterday which must surely be a contender. Does anything else trump it? 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_macdui_-_creagan_a_choire_etch...

Post edited at 18:09
 Doug 21 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

Mousetrap (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/broad_cairn_-_creag_an_dubh-loch-1... )?  or maybe one of the other Dubh loch routes which I've not done.

 d_b 21 Sep 2020
In reply to Doug:

I have had my eye on https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/broad_cairn_-_creag_an_dubh-loch-1... for a while, but haven't done it yet.

 CMcBain 21 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

Scabbard pitch 2 definitely my favourite VS pitch in the Cairngorms. I’m sure one of the logbook comments sums it up perfectly - “poetry in motion”.

OP DaveHK 21 Sep 2020
In reply to Doug:

I totally forgot about the Dubh Loch!

 Robert Durran 21 Sep 2020
In reply to CMcBain:

> Scabbard pitch 2 definitely my favourite VS pitch in the Cairngorms.

Probably best pitch but arguably not the best route?

Fallout Corner is good too.

 David Gainor 21 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

For location and atmosphere, I thought Koala on Braeriach was pretty amazing. The climbing itself is really good as well. Highly recommended.

 mike barnard 21 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

I still think Clean Sweep is a match for any. Honourable mention for Angel's Edgeway.

Best VS pitch? Having done it this year, I'm tempted to say pitch 1 of Amethyst Pillar. Totally brilliant.

1
In reply to DaveHK:

Good question. I really enjoyed The Clean Sweep which I climbed at the weekend, stunning route. Even the first pitch was dry, something I’ve been told is quite rare. No pushover either.  

Scabbard is ace too, although mainly because of that spectacular second pitch. 

Need to check out the Dubh Loch one day. 

 Mike-W-99 21 Sep 2020
In reply to mike barnard:

> I still think Clean Sweep is a match for any. Honourable mention for Angel's Edgeway.

From memory are there not 2 very scrappy pitches in Clean Sweep? 

> Best VS pitch? Having done it this year, I'm tempted to say pitch 1 of Amethyst Pillar. Totally brilliant.

I also did this this year and thought the 1st pitch was very good as well.

 Robert Durran 21 Sep 2020
In reply to Mike-W-99:

> I also did this this year and thought the 1st pitch was very good as well.

I think you'll find that the first pitch is pitch 1.

2
 mike barnard 21 Sep 2020
In reply to Mike-W-99:

> From memory are there not 2 very scrappy pitches in Clean Sweep? > 

2 and 4 are nothing much, yes. But 1 is pretty good and 3 is superb.

 Mike-W-99 21 Sep 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

Grammar was never my strong point.

 Drew52 22 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

Mousetrap or Black mamba

 ScraggyGoat 22 Sep 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

The Fly (Summer) (VS 4c)

Is reputed (by those that should know i.e. former Cairngorm guidebook authors) to be a very fine pitch, though I haven't done it to confirm.

If you climb King Rat (E1 5c) traditionally by one point of aid (yes I hear the ethical screams....) the route becomes a very fine VS, more sustained, more exposure and more out there than Scabbard, Clean Sweep, and Fall Out. Obviously similar to Mousetrap in style.

Post edited at 08:19

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