UKC

Brightside - Froggatt beta

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 PTatts 25 Aug 2021

Had a look at Brightside (E2 5c) at Froggatt yesterday and found moving around the corner from the chimney very hard to read.

The break where your gear is was massively chalked (and even the lower slots on the face), but moving around on to the face on those felt properly hard on poor footholds.

Was this me blindly following bad beta, and I should have been foot traversing the break? Or was I just not good enough?! 

Post edited at 08:18
 GrahamD 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

Its 5c.  For me that is hard !

 neilh 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

Any consolation I have nveer been able to figure out where it actually goes and have similar experience. Its pretty rubbish.

1
In reply to PTatts:

> Had a look at Brightside (E2 5c) at Froggatt yesterday and found moving around the corner from the chimney very hard to read.

> The break where your gear is was massively chalked (and even the lower slots on the face), but moving around on to the face on those felt properly hard on poor footholds.

> Was this me blindly following bad beta, and I should have been foot traversing the break? Or was I just not good enough?! 

I led this some time ago and found it easy for the grade to the point where I thought it might only be E1. Annoyingly, when attempting it again, I floundered miserably before giving up. I concluded that I needed to go a bit further left before going up.

 Moacs 25 Aug 2021
In reply to neilh:

>  Its pretty rubbish.

I disagree! the moves up the wall are gorgeous.  Yes, getting to them is the crux

 neilh 25 Aug 2021
In reply to Moacs:

LOL!Its a very frustrating route when you realise you have missed the crux as you know deep down its not a tick.....................

 Graeme Hammond 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

You traverse with you hands on the lowest break out of the chimney, to get stood on a small foothold in the middle of the face with a finger slot for hands & gear from where lovely moves lead up the wall. Have seen several people traverse from much higher up the chimney thinking they were doing Brightside which misses out almost all the climbing 

 Derek Furze 25 Aug 2021
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

A variant that should really be called Darkside...

 Jon Stewart 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

It's quite hard, not a lot for your feet - it is 5c. Quite a good route though, nice face climbing once you commit. 

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

> Had a look at Brightside (E2 5c) at Froggatt yesterday and found moving around the corner from the chimney very hard to read.

> The break where your gear is was massively chalked (and even the lower slots on the face), but moving around on to the face on those felt properly hard on poor footholds.

> Was this me blindly following bad beta, and I should have been foot traversing the break? Or was I just not good enough?!

Have a look at the photos on here?

Chris

 Michael Hood 25 Aug 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Am I right in remembering that some people have claimed to have failed on this because they couldn't manage the initial (S 4a) chimney?

In reply to Moacs:

> >  Its pretty rubbish.

> I disagree! the moves up the wall are gorgeous.  Yes, getting to them is the crux

It is a lovely route. I intend to try again!

 jkarran 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

Pretty sure it's just quite hard for a couple of moves out onto the face, sounds like you did it right.

Jk

 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 25 Aug 2021
In reply to PTatts:

That's about the right place. Below the break where there are runners on the arete is a slopey edge on the face. Match this from the chimney and swing round and down into good low break on face. There is a good double foothold below the overlap on the front face that you are aiming for, but you can't see it at all from the chimney! 

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