UKC

/ Burly slate climbs 7b-8a+with big-ish hand holds?

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DeaNomNom - on 14 May 2018

I climbed Coldbitz the other day and was pleasantly surprised by the big holds and powerful moves. Are there others like it that I can try? I'm not very familiar with slate so do mention the obvious climbs as I likely won't have heard of them. Powerful lay-backing, compression, gastoning and slopey/pinchy holds all welcome. Wizz-bang is another example that I liked, although looking for harder routes!

I've not got a pulley injury so I'm happy to pull on little holds to get to burly moves.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Dan Arkle - on 14 May 2018
In reply to DeaNomNom:

The Wall Within is superb, and has shiny new bolts

Ben Farley - on 14 May 2018
In reply to DeaNomNom:

Heatseeker 7c. Not been on it but think it may fit the bill.

The Dark Half 8a. Its not slab climbing anyway. Kind of burly/powerful at times. 

Forsinaine Motspur 7c. So it has some slabby stuff on it but some very cool powerful climbing too. A must do anyway.

Cirith Ungol 7a+. Easier than you want but excellent , bouncy climbing on grippy greenstone. Definitely not your average slate route.

Cavity Wall 7c. So its got a fairly excruciating crux but plenty of good wall climbing. Again not quite what you are after but its not your typical slate route and definitely worth checking out. Its fairly new so not in the guide but is in the ukc database.

Paz - on 14 May 2018

Gin Palace?

 

pasbury on 14 May 2018
In reply to DeaNomNom:

Geordie war cry in Bus Stop. Though I think it’s 7 a.

DeaNomNom - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Great suggestion, I found some good photos and a video of that route and it looks good.

DeaNomNom - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Ben Farley:

Have heard of the dark half. Glad you confirmed that it is steep. Will be worth a look.

Heatseeker and cavity wall are new to me so thanks for the suggestions.

DeaNomNom - on 15 May 2018
In reply to Paz:

Definitely worth a Fight! Will be good to find out how far kneebars will get me.

Sl@te Head - on 15 May 2018
In reply to DeaNomNom:

The only knee bar I've ever found on slate is on 'Dark Side of the Moon' a 7b in Twll Mawr. It's a technical slab where a rockover turns into a knee bar (you don't really need it, as it's not at all strenuous!)

Dark Side of the Moon (7b)

Ben Farley - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Hi Ian, I know you asked a while ago about ascents of some of your routes. Did you get any feedback on Glasgow Kiss? I tried it the other week and need to go back to finish it but loved it, despite the really hard crux. The smeary right foot on the crux is really quite hard to stick!

Sl@te Head - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Ben Farley:

The only successful repeat of 'Glasgow Kiss' that I've heard of was by Johnny Dawes. It would be interesting to hear what grade you think it is when you get it ticked. I remember the crux being desperate and having to press down powerfully on my thumb which was incredibly painful from many previous attempts. I swear I could hear squelching noises from my thumb joint on the first ascent even though I'd strapped it up tightly with finger tape!

Ben Farley - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Well I haven't got up it yet, but it feels a bit harder than 7b+, although its difficult to grade such cruxy, slabby things. Dead good though Ian, thanks for cleaning and bolting it. Similarly to what you say, I thought I was going to slice through my fingertip on a crux edge!


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