UKC

Cheating Stones!

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 May 2013
Something cropped up in conversation yesterday, I can recall using a pile of stones to start a route somewhere (possibly more than once) but can't remember which climb. I'm guessing it was the UK - any suggestions?


Chris
 GridNorth 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: Green Death at Millstone Edge?
 Reach>Talent 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
There is a pile below one of the sport routes at Winspit, can't remember the name though.
 Monkey_Alan 13 May 2013
In reply to Reach>Talent:
Rampant Love Jugs is the route where piling rocks under the start is "cheating".

Dry Time Climb and It Can't be Denied at Hedbury often have small cairns underneath to assist with the start.
 Timmd 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

The Reemergence block at Burbage has a route where using stones to start a route at it's left hand end is commented on as not being allowed in one of the guides.

I can remember there being stones lying around where people would stand.
In reply to Chris Craggs: I'd have considered it on Tacitation yesterday but in the event just didn't bother trying at all. Is that start really only 5a?
 Mark Bull 13 May 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) I'd have considered it on Tacitation yesterday but in the event just didn't bother trying at all. Is that start really only 5a?

No, but this is Northumberland where the first 3 or 4 metres don't actually contribute to the grade, because you should be hard enough just to jump off!

 Mark Bull 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Saxon, Carn Kenidjack? If I recall correctly the level of the boulder beach is a bit variable.
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 May 2013
In reply to all:

None of those ring a bell, I think it might have been on limestone.

On Green Death I always traversed in or got a bunk-up (so to speak), Tacitation is a bugger but it wasn't that - using cheating stones in the Cooonty is liable to get you banished!


Chris
 Tyler 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Have you been to Chapel Head Scar since the tree fell down?
Wiley Coyote2 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Windhover always used to have a pile of rubble under the start but that may just been the bits that fallen off that day!
 Yanis Nayu 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: Bamford? By Gunpowder Crack?
 Andy Moles 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

An upturned bucket was used to start Undertow at Reiff.

These piles of stones are at Isili in Sardinia - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=219702

They are (were in 2002) held together by expanding foam.

Alan
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It was definitely the norm in the late 60s-late 70s for there to be a little pile of stones to help do the starts of those hard 5Cs at the very far right end of Harrison's Rocks, The Rift and Witch's Broomstick. IIRC, Ian McNaught-Davies had his own personal pile of stones to start The Rift.
 The Mole 13 May 2013
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com: yes
 Tony the Blade 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Is it Bowles Rocks?

http://www.mountain-trips.co.uk/includes/images/bowles_panarama760.jpg

You can see the small pile of stones in the middle.
 wilkie14c 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Verandah buttress @ Stanage? S 5b!
OP Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 13 May 2013
In reply to all:


Nope. Never been to Harrisons (really!) or Isili, and certainly wouldn't use a pile of stones on Stanage!

Must be somewhere ultra-obscure!


Chris



 jon 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Where was that classic John Allen (at least I think it was him, buckling up his helmet and stood on a pile of stones?) photo taken? Was it Edge Lane?
 Brannock 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: The slurper at Stonney has a pile of stones to avoid the (hard) first move.
In reply to Chris Craggs:

An old classic starting off a pile of stones - actually the remains of a wall - was Cave Arete Indirect at Laddow. I think the stones may have gone now.
 Enty 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Standing on the Lancashire Brick Guidebook would usually get you past the crux on most routes in the Lancashire Quarries.

There's a route with an undercut start at Baume Rousse used to have a knotted rope from the first bolt.

E
 Steve Perry 13 May 2013
In reply to Andy Moles:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> An upturned bucket was used to start Undertow at Reiff.


Was it Dave Birkett who did it first without the bucket?

Removed User 13 May 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> Where was that classic John Allen (at least I think it was him, buckling up his helmet and stood on a pile of stones?) photo taken? Was it Edge Lane?

You are thinking of the photo in Chris Allott's album. Someone spots it and says it is Green Death Millstone, then Chris confirms it.
In reply to Chris Craggs: it wasn't the cheating stack under Remergence at Burbage North was it Chris? Probably more to keep your feet dry than anything else.
 GrahamD 13 May 2013
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> An old classic starting off a pile of stones - actually the remains of a wall - was Cave Arete Indirect at Laddow. I think the stones may have gone now.

The wall is still there and used ! at least it was last year
 kyaizawa 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs: Route 2 at Crookrise?? Depends how short you are (I'm definitely on the short side) so had to stand on a pile of stacked pads to get a foot up and rock over onto the start of the route... though I can't remember if there were any stone around to pile not. And the start to Tacitation's not that bad!!
 Al Evans 13 May 2013
In reply to paul_in_cumbria: I fell onto to those and had to go to the Hallamshire for stitchies, I think Mr Brian Cropper may have pictures of this
 kristian Global Crag Moderator 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
The start to this route: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6076
or was it Breck Road?

or:http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=12250

The classic hard route to the right Nemesis is often started from a pile too, as was Chris Wrights route there abouts.
 jon 13 May 2013
In reply to Removed User:

This one. So it's Green Death not Edge Lane?

http://bp1.blogger.com/_7lj6sMMU5Nc/R8W2feGVtsI/AAAAAAAADFw/xSRhhgnhF1w/s16...
 James90 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Flake Wall bowden doors?

its not a pile of stones its a small boulder in this case people climb on and then bridge out. As this is northumberland were the guidebooks ignores the start you get an interestin diff 5a.
In reply to Al Evans: ouch! The pool dried out ages ago but the start hasn't got any easier.
 Archangel 13 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Exhibition Wall, Mt York, Blue Mountains?
Removed User 13 May 2013
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to rocky57)
>
> This one. So it's Green Death not Edge Lane?
>
> http://bp1.blogger.com/_7lj6sMMU5Nc/R8W2feGVtsI/AAAAAAAADFw/xSRhhgnhF1w/s16...

Yep, that's the one I mean. To be honest I don't know why he is on the stones there's a bolt right behind his head.
 Euge 14 May 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> This wins hands down I bet
> http://79.170.44.210/climbingvideos.co.uk/crags/SS/sand/bowles/trip/13.jpg

Ha ha... Class Stevo...

E
 jon 14 May 2013
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Removed Userjon)

> To be honest I don't know why he is on the stones there's a bolt right behind his head.

To be honest, I'm not sure I understand.

 petegunn 14 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Honeymoon Crack at Ravensheugh had a pile of stones at the start last time i visited, E36b or E15b with the traditional shoulder/combined tactics
 another_alex 14 May 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
This one with the 6a start
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=161816
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