UKC

Does anyone have any Cornish route recommendations? Very roughly VS-E5, but frankly I think Cornish VDs are amazing, so whatever. Safe or safe enough routes only please, no solos. Thank you, T

In reply to Toby Dunn:

At the low end of your range, South Face Direct (VS 4c) is brilliant.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Hi Toby,

I'm sure you're aware of many of these but I thought I would mention them anyway...

Carn Gowla: Mercury (E2), Rainbow Games (E2).

Bosigran: The well known classics, of which Ghost is my favourite...but also Dominator is very good as is Patience. I really enjoyed Paragon into Patience. In Great Zawn, Xanadu is amazing.

Sennen: Swift Flight of Fancy is great. Samson Arête with the Rock Hopper finish ie straight up the arête is ace.

Lands End: A bit hit or miss in terms of rock quality but Longships Wall and Antenna are both well worth doing.

Carn Barra: Everything is fun and mostly soft. A fantastic crag for ticking through the routes. Really enjoyed Sunny Corner Lane, Glass Arête and Bottle Throttle.

Cribba Head: Both Boysen Routes are fun....in an old fashioned way.

Lizard has some gems too, The Cull and Dawn are both great as are the routes on Amnesty Wall (but they are a bit soft).

Hope you have a good trip.

Tom

In reply to tomrainbow:

That's a great list.
Ghost is brilliant, and while you're at Bosigran, do Phantom too, then walk around to Great Zawn and do Dream-Liberator.
I'd probably add Grand Plage at Carn Barra.

In reply to Toby Dunn:

My fave local lines tend to be more obscure and esoteric.

Midships (HVS 5b)

Biggles Flies Undone (HVS 5a)

The Green Face (HS 4a)

Carn Boel Cleft (VD)

Chlorophyll Cluster (E1 5b)

In reply to Toby Dunn:
For an easy life, go to Kenidjack Cliffs: fantastic routes on a very beautiful crag. In a similar style (i.e. not on the brutal granite, dainty wall climbing) Mastodon (E3 5c) is the uberclassic, and worth all the hype.

Have you seen the nice UKC feature on lower sharpnose? Inspiring!

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Thanks everyone, Jon I like Sharpnose a lot, but have unfortunately done everything there in the classics bracket up to E6, except the Devonian which I was told was a bit nasty. West Penwith mainly, as there is plenty of steadier stuff that I haven't done, Mastadon, Ghost, Dream / Lib, Saxon were already on the list, Carn Gowla is a good idea as I've not been. I like Carn Barra too - Sunny Corner Lane sounds good. Affected by rock fall?
Anyone done Bishops Rib at Chair Ladder?

In reply to Toby Dunn:

If you're going to Carn Barra I would also recommend walking a little further for the excellent American Dream (E1 5b) and then Interspace (E4 6a) at Carn Lês Boel Area. Amazing climbing in a lovely setting.

In reply to Toby Dunn:

Would agree with those who said South Face Direct and Saxon, both really good fun. Although below the grade range you mention I did really enjoy Right Angle.

In reply to Toby Dunn:


How so? Just hard, or dangerous?

In reply to Toby Dunn:

A couple more suggestions:

Burning Gold, E4/5, Carn Les Boel.

Immaculate Arête, E4, Pordenack Point.

The Cull, E3, Lizard Point.

Darkinbad, E5, Pentire Point.

In reply to Rob Oram:


I'd second all of those and also recommend Anvil Chorus and LBJ at Bosi, and Diocese at Chair ladder.
I'd also recommend Bosi Ridge just for the experience if there's no-one else on it.
I wouldn't queue for Demo Route though. Thought it was highly overrated.

In reply to Chris Murray:


+1

How so? Just hard, or dangerous?

Devonians are both hard and dangerous, its all the clotted cream.

Burning Gold, E4/5, Carn Les Boel.

Immaculate Arête, E4, Pordenack Point.

The Cull, E3, Lizard Point.

Darkinbad, E5, Pentire Point.

nice suggestions, although I've done DTB, its one of my favourite routes in the world

In reply to Toby Dunn:



No they're big softies really (says a Cornishman living in exile in West Devon).