UKC

Hi all 

Recently a friend and I were climbing a vertical crack of about red dragon 3 width (more or less), with it getting narrower towards its back. About two thirds the way up, the vertical face reduced in angle and became more of a slab crack (two planes forming an intersection). Because of this change in angle one of our half ropes effectively sawed into the vertical section of the crack as he climbed and got well and truly stuck, meaning the leader had to build a belay where he was (not ideal).

Was there a way to avoid this? 

• Build a belay before the angle change? not ideal as it would have been a hanging belay and the rope still has to go through that point anyway.
• Continual flicking? would work until you place the next bit of gear. 
• Place gear at the sides?  There wasn't any 

Thanks in advance.     

Piece of gear at the angle change to block the crack and stop the rope going in. One of the rare times a hex is useful, but a cam would do if placed with some care.

When I think that’s going to happen. I throw a hex it. The rope runs over the top and can be directed away from what’s catching it

If you can see potential spots for this to happen, you can often place a piece of gear at the point the rope would get pulled into the crack so that the rope rubs against the gear rather than getting stuck.

How far out of the crack were the carabiners? I’d normally extended them as much as safely possible (just use the full length of sling on the dragons) and then keep wiggling the rope to keep it out of the crack. Once you’re on the slab it should then just run over the edge unless you move left/right and drag it back in. 
Edit- The hex/big nut suggestions above are good!

Thanks all, i suppose the answer was pretty obvious really. 

Only note of caution is that if you leave a cam for this just make sure the rope isn't going to drive the cam to the back of the crack where ir over cams and becomes hard to retrieve. you're often better with a passive piece to guide the rope.

I'd be interested to know how you recommend placing a cam "with care" in this situation. Several times over the years placing a cam in this situation has led to my rope engaging with the cams and ether getting irretrievably jammed or, on one occasion, passing right through the cam leaving the cam pretty much where it was placed but with the rope now running behind it!

IMO a hex would always be better here, but there isn't always a handy hex placement to be found. If there are side runners above or below to keep the rope out of the crack then that's probably the best solution.

Martin

The hex doesn’t have to be the protection if it’s a better friend placement. Just stick/sit the hex in above the friend so the rope doesn’t jam or bite. 
 

it’s the same as putting a big wire or hex round the back of sling so it doesn’t bite when you’re building a belay

Yeah, that's exactly what I was alluding to but couldn't be arsed to type out. You'd probably at least have to place it stem down or even slightly inward and make sure where the rope runs didn't store up problems. Maybe even use multiple pieces in some resourceful way if you need to. Case by case, this one. Only thing you can say generically is that rope management on lines like this needs careful appraisal and thought.

OP already said this wasn't an option, otherwise obviously do that.

In addition to the good advice above, on a vertical crack such as this, a single rope is much easier to handle.

I would have thought that the hex suggestion is only of use to most people if they know of the specific situation in advance and carry the specific hex size - most people don't carry a set of hexes routinely. In practice, probably use a carefully positioned cam and try to keep tension out of the rope.

If you are using two ropes, you can, as a last resort, untie from the jammed rope and continue climbing on the other. 

I feel your pain having often found the joy of crack climbing to be spoilt by the rope jamming at your feet and constantly trying to pull it aside to fit toe and hand jams in. 

As said above, blocking the narrows with a hex only works if you can spot the problem beforehand: like the rope eating crack at the top of Technical Slab/ pedestal Route.

Placing less runners helps a bit or placing gear in breaks and cracks outside the one you are trying to climb. Not always an option, obviously.

This happens a lot where overhanging cracks transition to easy ground.  If you can get gear in above and to the side of the crack, it can help with the rope management,  even if that gear isn't your main piece.

Another thing to consider is once you have a bomber piece above the transition, lean down and remove the potentially jamming cam.

I've often placed a beer towel, a knotted sling, or something similar, into deep cracks first before placing a cam. Stops it walking further into the crack.   

"at the top of Technical Slab/ pedestal Route"--

About level with the base of the crack and about two feet left there is a runner.  If you use this you can keep the ropes out of the crack (which is a rope eating bastard).  This actually works better than jamming gear in the base of the crack (and would also be the perfect location for a revolver).

There is a wider lesson to be learned here - and that is to try not to be too focussed - the best solution might not lie in proximity to the problem.

I think you mean avoid tunnel vision and keep your focus wide. I've lost count of the number of climbers I've seen stuck in that top groove on Pedestal Route due to the infamous rope lock in the crack at the end of the roof. That traverse from the Pedestal top can feel sketchy for the second with loads of slack due to the stuck rope.

Yep - avoid tunnel vision is a better way to put this.