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Crag cleaning etiquette

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 k.e.urquhart 06 May 2022

I've recently moved up to Inverness and noticed a few of the local crags could do with a bit of a clean. 

What is the etiquette with cleaning routes? Are any brush types (soft metal, plastic, etc.) recommended or frowned upon? Is it acceptable to clean lichen off holds, or should it be left there as it takes so long to grow? 

 Gary Latter 06 May 2022
In reply to k.e.urquhart:

Wire brush should be fine fine unless it's particularly soft rock, such as sandstone. Most of the rock up your way Schist or Conglomerate, so shouldn't be a problem on that front. Only issue would be if the venue is a SSSI (Site Special Scientific Interest) where the designation identifies the presence of a particularly rare moss or lichen, and should be protected and left alone.

On your doorstep, Creag nan Clag (The Camel) at the southern end of Loch Duntelchaig would provide some great long mid-grade sport routes on the front face; unfortunately development is restricted to the already developed area on the gully wall, due to a rare lichen, I believe.

In contrast, was a bit underwhelmed by our visit to the Tynrich Slabs, by Loch Ruthven last year. Thought the write up in the current Highland Outcrops South bit overenthusiastic - many of the starred routes were pretty dirty. Surprising, as it's very convenient from Inverness, with a good spread of grades.

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 Gary Gibson 06 May 2022
In reply to k.e.urquhart:I use a masonry brush, it’s stiff enough but doesn’t do the same damage and abrasion that a wire brush does

 CantClimbTom 06 May 2022
In reply to k.e.urquhart:

Masonry brush = good

Mortar and Brick cleaner (etc) = Don't even think about it!


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