New thread since the original has been archived
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/derbyshire_hard_rock_routes_in_a...
Was inspired by the idea and did this yesterday. What an amazing day. Very long and I confess I did underestimate it. Today I am broken.
Run-down of the day.
6.40 meet in Hathersage, swap gear into one car and head to Matlock
7.15 start Debauchery feeling excited. Some time later, don't remember P2 being this hard. Why am I pumped already? It's ok, this is just warming up.
8.55 back in car heading to Cratcliffe
9.15 finally leave Matlock after sitting in traffic jams
9.30 at base of Suicide Wall. Jeez it's hot in the sun. Off you go, Tony. My turn. Wow this is slippery. How do you jam again? When did I last climb on grit? Good job these holds are big.
10.25 back in the car and heading to Topley Pike
11.00 At base of Sirplum. Never done this before. It's even steeper when you're under it. Tony's given me the main pitch. "So it's just pull up, jug?" "Pretty much". Stepping across from the plinth I had to stop and take it all in. What an amazing position. How does an E1 get here? Wow. I'd agree it's the best E1 in the Peak.
12.30ish about to start Chee Tor Girdle. Remember, if you've nothing good to say then say nothing. Hmmm. Ok, it's not as polished as the VSs at Stoney. And I never have to do it again
3.30 heading to Stoney. 4 routes in 8 hours. Ok we've done 10 pitches out of 17 but we've got the hard climbing to come. Have we been climbing slowly? Didn't feel like it. Ok, this is a big day.
3.45 "Let's gear up at the car so we don't have to take bags". Tony heads up P1. Shit, where's my chalk bag? Bugger...Right let's climb this slowly. Maybe the sun will go in. Maybe there will be a bit of a breeze. Nope. Glad they're big holds. P2 is mine. So glad we reccied this a few weeks ago so I know there's only a short tricky section. Have these holds shrunk? They're so slippery. I'm off. No, just held it. Blow on hand, got to dry it somehow. There's the thread. Clipped. But now the holds get even smaller, and shinier, and more slippery. Shit, shit shit. Balance, use your feet. There's the cave, don't over-reach, slowly, phew. Get to the belay on Windhover. So glad Tony's got the crux and I can relax for a bit. Eventually it's my turn on those small holds where it gets steep. "I was nearly off there. So pumped and I couldn't see the holds in the sun" he says. I'm so glad we did this a few weeks ago and memory gets me through. The final pitch is just pleasant. But we know without looking that we were slower than the 2 hours we took last time.
6.35 on our way to Curbar. Walking up we comment on how there's nobody else there. Why not? Because it's a still evening in June. The moment we stop the bastards descend on us. Every bit of bare skin gets covered with those black biting dots. No time to waste. For once I'm glad to be leading Elder Crack as it will give me some respite. No points for style but plenty for efficiency. Up you come, Tony. Right, let's get out of here. Feeling good now. That's all the hard climbing done and just the 2 HVSs to go
7.30 walking up to Froggatt. Has this hill grown? It wasn't this far last time. My legs are SO tired. Tony's lead. Midges aren't so bad here and we've got repellant on so belaying isn't too bad. Hmm, looks like he's struggling a bit on the crack. He's made it to the arete. And he's up. My turn. This is so slippery. Where are the good jams? Foot slip, held it just. Move up, hand slip, get it back in, just. I am not falling off. Somehow I made it to the arete. In the right conditions this is a brilliant climb but today everything is so greasy. Eventually I got to the top and swore at Tony as he had no more leading to do and I still had to do Right Unconquerable.
8.50 walking up from the Plantation car park. So tired. Everything aches. Hope those chocolate biscuits do some good. As I set off up the sun comes out and bathes everything in a beautiful orange glow. Come on. I've done this enough times. Through the crux, place some gear, it's all ok. Move right. Only 10 feet left. Pump hits. Fight it, breathe. Get that cam in quickly and move on. At the semi rest under the top out. Gear in, chalk up, move. Where are the edges on top? Fk where are they. Can't hold on for long. There's one. And another. And I'm up. Wow, there's a breeze up here and no midges. And just look at that sunset. "Climb when ready". "Climbing". Fantastic. Double fist bump.
9.50 back at the car. Too tired to go to pub
What an excellent day. Individually none of the routes are particularly hard but when you add in all the walking and the volume of climbing it adds up to a big day out. Thanks to Tony for agreeing to do it.
