/ Direct finish to Fratricide Wall (Carreg Alltrem)

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Paul Sagar - on 14 May 2019

Fratricide Wall (HVS 5a) Carreg Alltrem

Anyone know if the direct finish to this is graded? I climbed it inadvertently not realising you are supposed to finish right up the easy arête. 

Felt really bloody serious with full deck potential off hard 5c(?) moves. E2?

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JonesE on 15 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Not seen it given a grade but I reckoned the whole route worthy of low E1, so I'd give you at least that. The finish arete might be 'easy' but getting to it is the psychological crux of the route and feels very delicate. I got a good wire in around near the peg (peg looked like it wouldn't hold a fall), but not sure whether this would protect you enough to top out safely. A few of the comments mentioned doing what you did but no estimated grade given.

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Paul Sagar - on 15 May 2019
In reply to JonesE:

Yeah I'd say E1 for sure - the traverse lower down at the start of the second pitch feels in that territory alone. Was totally crapping myself as I did the direct finish, not least as I ended up with the rope behind my leg. Would have flipped and brained myself on the slab (had gear in under the peg, as I also suspected it wasn't good, but looking from above after I topped out I thought it far too low to stop a fall safely).

More attention paid to the guidebook would have been wise, as ever - but the peg is oddly placed as it gives all the indication that you should be continuing up and past it to the top via a direct finish. I recommend somebody get it out!

Post edited at 01:05
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Greenbanks - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Carreg Alltrem has been my bogey crag. I've only ever got up a single route there - and that one gibbering on the end of a rope. I am drawn to the crag - great lines etc. But it messes with me, big time. I'm close to falling out with it.

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Paul Sagar - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Greenbanks:

I can see where you're coming from - it's surprisingly intimidating! I did like the two lines I did there, though (Fratricide Wall; Lavaredo)

I'd be keen to go back as there is clearly a lot more worthwhile climbing there, but the Rockfax and Ground-up only have 4 climbs shown and the CC guide is pretty hard to make out.

If there is a new edition of North Wales Climbs ever coming out with Rockfax I'd recommend giving Carreg Alltrem comprehensive coverage. It will only take an extra page and it would be worth it. You can even include my E2 direct finish of Fratricide Wall as an official grade  

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Chris Craggs - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

If it has 5c moves, high up and with ground fall potential, it will be more like E4 than E2,

Chris

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baron - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

The 2002 Meirionnydd guide has a route called Midgicide which is graded E2 5C and follows a more direct line than Fratricide Wall.

Could this be what you did?

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wilkesley - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

I seconded this route many years ago. I think it's the one where you can place side runners in an adjacent route (as described in my ancient guide book). Haven't got my old guide to hand at the moment, but if its the same route it was graded HVS5a, but with warnings about lack of protection.

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Paul Sagar - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Sorry, to clarify: you wouldn't hit the ground (it's the top of a second pitch, about 40 meters up), but you would hit a nasty ledge and do yourself some very serious mischief. You wouldn't die, but you might need a helicopter.

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Paul Sagar - on 16 May 2019
In reply to baron:

I think 'Midgicide' is a direct alternative lower down, avoiding the technical traverse on the original route - but I could be wrong.

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Paul Sagar - on 16 May 2019
In reply to wilkesley:

The moves needed to exit direct are way harder than 5a. Small hold out left, very high right foot, big move to not amazing hold, then a top-out with no holds just the flat of the ledge that I executed with a graceful whale flop. Very hard and very scary.

Post edited at 12:07
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Ron Rees Davies - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Midgicide, as submitted on the UKC logbook (which I need to get round to updating - sorry) is described as a variation second pitch to Fratricide wall. 

There do, however, seem to have been several confusions and reclaimed first ascents on this crag. See the comments on 'Pin up' and 'Civetta' for example. 

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Paul Sagar - on 16 May 2019
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks Ron - as above, I think Midgicide is a  lower variation avoiding the airy traverse on the seconde pitch. But could be wrong - if so, just delete my addition of the direct finish and I’ll log Midgicide

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wilkesley - on 17 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Just looked at my 1983 and 1989 guide and both mention making difficult moves right to the arete. Neither guide mentions finishing directly. There is a nice photo of me on Laverado in the 1989 guide

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Paul Sagar - on 17 May 2019
In reply to wilkesley:

One of the older members in my club - who has been climbing in North Wales and beyond for 35 years - reckons the direct is E2 5c. Take note, future guidebook writers!

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Paul Ha on 18 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

just checked my old log I have this from the first ascent... Midgicide  E2 5a,5c  P1 as for Fracticide. P2 5c  follow the thin crack of Fracticide  then go up and right to gain overhung ledge below a thin diagonal crack. Stretch up and right and finish direct up the leaning wall above via a thin crack. FA Paul Harrison, Mike Snell 1.6.90 (on sight)

Hope that helps... long time ago!

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Paul Sagar - on 18 May 2019
In reply to Paul Ha:

Ah so Midgicide IS the direct finish then! Mystery solved!

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