In reply to Martin Bennett:
> By the way, Jim, having read some of your well informed comments in the past I'd appreciate your advice, if you've any experience of it, on the Mammut Smart belay device, in case I do decide to "go the whole sport hog" one day. Or do I take from your GrGri reference that that remains your device of choice?
Well, I'm not Jim. But I've used just about every belay device known to the human race, starting with the Pleistocenic Waist Belay. Although the Smart may be ok for single and twin ropes, I think it sucks for half ropes, which periodically require the belayer to be taking in one strand while paying out the other. The Smart just isn't set up for that and the result is a lot of grabbing while the belayer is trying to manage things.
On the other hand, the Alpine Up is perfect; almost a Gri-Gri for half ropes, except better than a Gri-Gri in a host of ways. Unlike the Smart, the Alpine Up feeds beautifully, better than any other device, and still locks up solidly during a fall. (The belayer does need to keep their hand on the rope, but doesn't have to exert any braking force.) It is much safer to lower with than a Gri-Gri, and can be used for rappelling and for guide-style upper belays, so is ideal for multipitch use. It looks funky and has a weight and cost similar to a Gri-Gri, but is simply the best mousetrap out there when it comes to half-rope technique. Every time I let someone use mine, they heap scorn on it based on its appearance and then don't want to give it back after they've used it.
These comments are based on use with 8.5mm Mammut Genesis ropes. Your mileage may vary, as we say in the States.