UKC

Hi everyone I am staying at the Druidstone hotel this weekend sitting atop of Druidstone beach / Cliffs (Pembrokeshire Wales), has anyone got any experience climbing there? (cliffs or caves)

Thanks!

Nice, it is an unusual and interesting hotel.

Nearest routes are near st davids which is about 20 minutes drive, but I have done some bouldering on the beach at the south end of newgale, which is less than 10 mins drive. Probably some bits to scramble around on at druidston haven and nolton haven also, but haven't really looked at them.

Some routes have been done at the Dru beach there but they’re total horrific choss fests.

The Newgale bouldering is decent enough for half an hour or so. Pointz Castle is the next nearest crag, but probably better to just keep heading to St Davids! 

The rock further south is generally pants but there are some routes and bouldering between Dale and Martins Haven, but again isn’t really worth bothering...

All in the CC North Pembrokeshire guide.

Out of interest, where is the bouldering you are thinking of at the south end of newgale? I pretty much spent my childhood on that beach, and I can't picture where there could be that much bouldering interest. What am I missing!?

where the road south towards nolton leaves the coast and the cliffs start, there are some sections of solid rock and some caves with bouldering possibilities between there and maidenhall point (i think that's what its called). i havent heard of anyone else climbing there and i haven't seen any published information but there are definately possibilities to (carefully) explore.

The bouldering is in the CC North Pembs guide, more to play at than what’s detailed...

Ah, thanks - I'll take a look round there some time. As I'm sure you know, there's also at least one bit on that stretch that's had some significant rockfall over the years, so I wouldn't have thought to look there. I should look more carefully though!

Last time I was there was at least two years ago. Yes a lot of that area did look like it was quite changeble.