UKC

Any ideas? preferably on main cliff and preferably without too much death potential for the leader...

ta

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Dinosaur.

Low in grade. Doesn't traverse. Good (strong) belays. Not too difficult to remove gear. Can pretty much see/hear second from stances.

Cheers,

Jack

And - it's a brilliant route. Hope you enjoy!

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Depends what the leader is like with the gear placement really, I got totally pumped many years ago seconding the first pitch, the leader totally welded the kit in, I lowered off from the stance and I`m not a weakling ! Run Fast Run Free might be easier IMO !

In reply to mike lawrence?: Thanks for the ideas, will try Dinosaur first as like the main cliff best but will keep Run Fast Run Free in mind.

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

Maybe I'm completely biased, but I would say that much though I love the Upper Tier E5s none of them are a patch on any of the ones down at Main Cliff - they're good, but kind of missing the point.

Furthermore, all of the E5s on Main Cliff are comparatively well protected. Ordinarily I carry a couple of sets of cams, it's a bit on the heavy side to begin with but usually you've unleashed half a rack of them into the crag by the half way point anyway!

Whichever you do settle for, you won't be disappointed!

Rob

p.s. if you do end up on Dinosaur leave it until late in the day, early on it suffers badly from the greasy conditions.