UKC

https://rockandice.com/climb-safe/climb-safe-the-dangers-of-short-static-fa...

People actually QD themselves directly to bolts!?

Probably everyone except you

Many years ago trying Traffic Jam at Stoney I kept falling back below the crux (different time I know). I clipped into a nut and tried the moves and fell about 12" - the impact was shocking - never did it again,

Chris

Fair enough! :-P

I don't *think* I've ever done this while working a route, only while threading etc.

It saves your belayer having to hold your weight while you rest. 

I had something happen to me a couple of weeks ago that has never happened to me in all the time I've been climbing and which nearly had the same effect as the examples quoted in the article. I clipped a bolt on the lip of a bulge - of a route I've done dozens of time - and clipped my rope in. The move past the bulge is quite dynamic and the moment you get the hold above, your feet come off the footholds below. Just as I reached the hold and started pulling over the bulge the quick draw clipped itself into my harness belay loop and as I tried to move up the quickdraw inverted so my waist was now 30cm above the bolt itself. I realised what had happened but couldn't unclip it with my free hand but neither could I reverse the move without falling onto the bolt. At this point I was facing a factor 2 fall which I knew would hurt but was getting tired. Eventually I grabbed the draw with my free hand and tried to absorb as much of the fall as I could. Still hurt quite a lot though!

Me to,  Elbebandstein, clipped a bolt, two very hard moves later could not move, over the shoulder sling had manage to clip the quickdraw, so effectively a noose over my shoulder. I fell it hurted.

Tony

Me too.

The quick draw clipped to the rope loop rather than a free running rope.

I did not realise it had happened until I fell.

It hurt a lot.

Had something similar happen a couple of years ago. Was doing Last Rose Of Summer, in Blacknor, did the crux and suddenly found myself pinned to the wall... my leg loop had gotten itself clipped to the top krab of the quickdraw. Took some frantic struggle to get it unclipped without falling, which I suspect would have hurt quite a bit.

Age 50 I  got my hand on the top ledge of Ramshaw Crack,2nd go up.Wasted out and fell.Mistake was having 2 ropes clipped.Extreme jolt in a 1.5 metre rag doll fall.

Ouch !