/ First Climbing Trip

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Tasha on 18 Jan 2019

Hello  

Just looking at planning my first climbing trip with a few friends. We are all fairly similar in ability, easy to intermediate bouldering/ trad/ a bit of sport.  I'm after a few suggestions regarding destinations with a good mix of trad and bouldering for a group of 4/5 around the mid - end of February time this year. Easy about accommodation, happy to camp e.t.c. 

Thanks in advance!

Post edited at 13:14
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Iamgregp - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

That's quite a hard one to answer, there's areas that are amazing for for all 3, but they mostly focus on 1 of the three so for example: 

Kalymnos is amazing for sport, but there's little trad, and not much in the way of developed bouldering (though loads of potential).

Font is amazing for bouldering, but there's little of anything else.

Trad I wouldn't have a clue on, but there's likely to be no sport anywhere where the trad is good.

By all means if anyone can think of anywhere that can deliver on all 3 then shout out, but I'm thinking if you narrow it down to 1 of the three you might find that you'll have a better holiday?

 

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wbo - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha: Hi - where do you normally climb?  Sorry if the q seems a bit dim, but it might mean first trip , ever, or first trip to a different place/country

 

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Martin Bennett - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

Being a Lancastrian I hate to say it but Yorkshire comes immediately to mind for all three disciplines. Admittedly much of the moderately graded sport is mediocre but for single pitch trad on both lime and grit it's great and the bouldering, I'm told, is legendary.

Other than that Tafraout Morocco suggests itself as having large quantities of exceedingly good trad climbs from 1 to 30 pitches, a fair helping of sport on the granite near the town, admittedly much of it not of the greatest quality, and a sea of granite boulders, though how much of the bouldering is written up I wouldn't know. Have a look at Climb Tafraout website for much info including, I believe, a new guide to the granite which has the sport routes. Worth noting in case you're not aware it's pretty adventurous and there are no rescue facilities.

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TobyA on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Iamgregp:

> Trad I wouldn't have a clue on, but there's likely to be no sport anywhere where the trad is good.

There's plenty of places I've been where trad and sport coexist - often on the same crag, or on some nearby crags. In Europe most of Scandanavia is mixed like that, although that doesn't help the OP as February isn't the time for rock climbing in Finland or Sweden!

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Neil Williams - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Martin Bennett:

I was going to say it's not very adventurous but go to the Peak District and camp at the North Lees campsite (assuming it's open at that time of year, if not there are other Peak sites that are open or a few YHAs).  Cheap and you've got access to all the classic venues (Stanage and the likes), which is a fairly decent place to start out!

If you want to do sport and want to go abroad, you can do far worse than Sicily, but why not start closer to home?

By the way for good UK sport the likes of Portland are good (there's a decent campsite just on the mainland, I forget what it's called) but it'd be freezing in Feb!

Post edited at 15:35
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MischaHY - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

Definitely Spain or Italy etc if in Feb. Even there it can be cold but will at least be dry. The UK climbing scene haunts places like Chorro, Costa Blanca etc so this is a good place to start looking. 

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Iamgregp - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Interesting, I didn't know that!

I've been a couple of places where there both sport and trad on the same crag (Sardinia and Mallorca) but both of those are really more sport crags with a couple of not-that-great trad routes in there... 

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danm on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

At that time of year, the weather can be a bit of a lottery. In the UK, I'd suggest the following as options:

Yorkshire - the best bouldering but venues tend to be quite spread out.

Peak District - good bouldering and trad options close together. Burbage, Stanage, Roaches all have good bouldering and trad at easy-intermediate levels.

N.Wales - Porth Ysgo and other year round venues, trad possible especially on the coast and if the weather is poor great walking/trips round the slate mines etc.

Overseas - maybe Annot? Quite high so may be cold. Personally I'd sack off the trad and just go to Font. Great food, awesome climbing for all abilities and the logistics are easy,no flying needed.

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ianstevens - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to danm:

> At that time of year, the weather can be a bit of a lottery. In the UK, I'd suggest... 

Not camping until at least May as it will be chuffing miserable

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Mark Eddy - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

Costa Blanca can give all 3. I can't vouch for the bouldering as haven't done any, but the Sierra Helada near Benidorm I believe has plenty. There are a few bouldering spots inland too, Pena Roja crag in the Xalo valley and some nice boulders near the village of Tormos, and below the Segaria ridge.

Tons of sport and trad climbing. A copy of the current Rockfax guide has all you'll need. I did a short right up a while back: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/costa-blanca-rock-climbing.html

Mark

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zv - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

For February, I would just book a cheap flight to Malaga and head to El Chorro for some sport climbing and sunshine. 

It is quite refreshing to be suddenly at 18+ degrees in the full sun and to be enjoying both the climbing, the climate and the food. 

Then later in the spring/summer I'd head to Font or book a trip to Pembroke and enjoy the classic trad there. 

The quality of the routes will increase vastly if you pick a destination that narrows it to one primary style of climbing.

 

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Ratfeeder - on 18 Jan 2019
In reply to Neil Williams:

> Peak District and camp at the North Lees campsite...Cheap and you've got access to all the classic venues (Stanage and the likes), which is a fairly decent place to start out!

> By the way for good UK sport the likes of Portland are good (there's a decent campsite just on the mainland, I forget what it's called) but it'd be freezing in Feb!

So would Stanage in all likelihood.

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gilesf - on 19 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

I've just come back from Costa Blanca, plenty of sports, trad and although I didn't see it, bouldering too I'm told.

The weather was ace, shirt off all day, so ideal for bouldering.;-) Flights were cheap and so was accommodation, we stayed at the Orange House.

I can't recommend the whole experience enough.

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Neil Williams - on 19 Jan 2019
In reply to Ratfeeder:

> So would Stanage in all likelihood.


True, though not quite as bad as the sea breeze!

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Ciro - on 19 Jan 2019
In reply to Neil Williams:

> True, though not quite as bad as the sea breeze!

 

I used to climb in Portland quite a lot in the winter. There's pretty much always something sheltered to go at, and if you're lucky you might find yourself sport climbing with no shirt on in Feb. There no guarantees but the climate is significantly warmer and drier than up north!

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Steve Broadbent - on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

Plus one for Tafraout! I can't think of many (any?) better places for trad climbing in February, with a little bit of of bouldering and sport climbing thrown in for good measure. The town now has an amazing mix of all sorts of climbing, and 10 or so fun bouldering circuits. Great rock, great weather, great culture... it's a top spot for a winter trip.

There's some more detailed info at https://www.climb-tafraout.com/ or https://www.facebook.com/ClimbTafraoute/

 

Post edited at 21:43
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petegunn on 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Tasha:

Would recommend Tenerife. 

They leave most of the crack lines for trad and bolt the rest. Lots of newly developed areas and boulders and cheapish pad hire from the shop in Arico.

 

 

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Sam Mayfield - on 21 Jan 2019
In reply to gilesf:

Glad you had a good trip and cheers for the mention of Orange House.

End Feb we are closed though as large school group and we dont mix when so large.

Sam Orange 

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BrendanO - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

+1for Tenerife!!

LOTS and LOTS of easy well-bolted stuff, shady or sunny side of gorges, helpful folk at shop in Arico, guaranteed weather. No queues, and if away from Arico Gorge you MAY see no-one else!

Car hire needed.  Bouldering possible, mat hire possible and we have done it, but mainly sport climbing. Three friends went within 6 months of starting indoors, and I have now been three times. New stuff every time plus old favourites. Flights etc not as cheap as Costa Blanca, but it totally does what it says on the tin.

Mallorca pretty good too, but weather not as bomber...just "pretty good". Crags felt busier too, at easy/middle grades.

Costa Blanca still has it, just everything a bit more spread out and less perfect than Tenerife. We REALLY liked Montesa, a wee crag with tonnes of stuff at low/mid-grade,

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Chris Craggs - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to BrendanO:

> +1for Tenerife!!

> LOTS and LOTS of easy well-bolted stuff, shady or sunny side of gorges, helpful folk at shop in Arico, guaranteed weather. No queues, and if away from Arico Gorge you MAY see no-one else!

I'm quite surprised at this - we were on Tenerife this time last year - first visit for 20 years - and struggled to find much good stuff below 6a, maybe we were visiting the wrong places!

Chris

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badgerjockey - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to BrendanO:

Yep, that’s quite a specific mix of climbing you are looking to cater for but I agree that Tenerife does the lot. Plus has bomber weather. 

There are better places to go bouldering and trad climbing (ok and sport too) but if you really realistically will be doing all three then Tenerife is a good shout. 

Never been to Costa Blanca. As great as mallorca is, it won’t tick all the boxes. Neither will Morocco. Some crags in Catalunya northern Spain will satisfy sport and trad (and a mix of both) but not bouldering particularly. Dolomites has all three and is an amazing quality destination but under several feet of snow this time of year. Turkey might do you but the climbing styles are massively spread out. Greece? Hampi? Thailand? I could go on but just buy flights to Tenerife. 

Post edited at 20:32
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Jaytaylor - on 02:08 Thu
In reply to Tasha:

If you get the weather.. St Bees could be a good shout  

St. Bees Head

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Kemics - on 05:20 Thu
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Yeah i was thinking Tafarout too. Really safe bet with weather and the climbing is incredible. Maybe slightly too adventurous as a first trip? Or just the right amount...

Northern spain/costa verde would be good option for sport climbing, maybe a little less safe weather wise 

Northwales has it all, but weather would be a massive risk factor

Post edited at 05:24
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