UKC

Seconding The Laughing Cavaliers (HVS 5a) at Shorn Cliff at the weekend.  My leader had put a nut under the big flake towards the top and, as I tried to wiggle it out I am sure the flake moved, at very least it made a very hollow sound.  I eventually managed, very gingerly, to extract the nut but the whole flake looks pretty insecure, cracks on left side and almost most of top side (the bottom and RHS are open).

I can see from logbook postings that people have commented on this before but I wonder if it has got worse, certainly made me wonder how safe it is.

I led it two or three weeks ago and the flake was a little bit loose.  Sounded hollow and although I stuck a nut under there, it wouldn't seat properly, as the flake was moving very slightly.  Actually I think I put a cam in as well.  I pulled on it to climb up, but did so 'with care'.

Bet you're good at poker. 

If you don't know what mean, probably best not to put a cam in behind the next loose flake you find!

You can avoid the flake to the left at about the same overall route grade too. When I lead it I did carefully pull on the flake but I didn’t put gear behind it as I didn’t want to dislodge it if I fell.

"Safe or dangerous?" - Gareth Keenan 2001