/ Font 5-6 Slabs in the Peak
Quick question for the masses...
We've just received an article from Katy Whittaker + Ned Feehally on classic slab climbs of the Peak. The focus is very much on bouldering, so no routes, but so far we're looking a little short at the easier end of the spectrum - namely Font 5 & 6s. Being that this is what most people climbs it seems like a shame to omit such a critical grade range.
The criteria is quite strict insofar as it has to be a pure slab, with climbing based upon friction - we don't want any compression or aretes in there! Ordinarily I'd include a few myself, but the only one that sprung to mind is The Big Slab (f4+) at Higgar Tor (which whilst easy, is pretty high!!) - hence we're after some more accessible suggestions that everyone can enjoy.
I'm sure there's loads of others, but for now am after everyones fun favourites.
Thanks in advance!
Pink Slab at Cratcliffe Tor would get my vote, there are a couple of others on the slab on the left of the path as you walk into the stride too which are reasonable.
Good stuff on the lower tier at the Roaches too.
Sorry I can't be more specific, my guidebook is at home!
I'm sure there are loads more and this list is very Eastern-centric, but a few that stand out to me in terms of quality (although some do have the odd hold/pebble):
The High Road (f3+) Probably my favourite easy boulder in the Peak.
Wall End Slab Direct Start (f4) There are a few others on here.
The Lone Slab (f6A) Several more on here at 5/low 6.
Blind Pocket Wall (f5+) Several others on this block too, as well as everything else at Cratcliffe/RHS.
Buckstone Groove (f5) Possibly doesn't count but I think it climbs quite slabbily.
Acid Reign (f6C) (although there's an arete, so possible not...).
Beauty (f6C) Class.
Joe's Slab/Joe's Direct Start (f5+) + the 6c pocket thing "Mono seam" to the left I did the other day. Rockfax have a right hand version too in the guide which I think is described wrong as is about 6a not 7a. I think it should avoid the large ledge completely on Joe's.
Acid Reign (f6C) if you do the left hand method, the RH way slaping up the arête though involves slab foot work and the whole thing is a steep slab.
Anyway back to work so something to think about this afternoon
Looks like typing the same thing at the same time!
Great minds think alike ;-)
Forgot about those both amazing! In a similar style (ie feel like a solo at the top) and location Sleepwalker (E2 6a) & Daydreamer (E2 6b) are also excellent the latter I got a rope chucked up + gear the first time i did it and tied a bowline round the waist to top out. The crux is near the bottom but the high green finish might be too much for some.
This thread is fantastic, I'd been mulling over this for weeks (albeit alongside a number of more pressing matters, if anything could be considered to be more pressing than this) and for some reason my mind kept coming up blank.
Appliance Friction is an excellent suggestion, as are the great many others that have been made.
Keep them coming!
I think that's a pretty solid list there. Only one I haven't done is The High Road, but the rest are pure quality...
Central Groove Thing at Burbage South
Rabbits Paw Wall at Secret Garden
Caley Slab Burbage South
Open Flakeline Burbage South
The only ones that I can think of that haven’t already been mentioned
Some nice "easy" slabs on the Wimberry boulders all detailed in the RF guide.
I was just scrolling through this thinking that there must be some at Wimberry.. and then what should the final post suggest?!
Really good easy one at the Very Far bit of the Roaches:
Loads of stuff on The Egg boulder at Cratcliffe.
railway slabs at black rocks
Renaissance and Mad Bilberries at Baslow both excellent highballs.
Egg arête at Cratcliffe a frustrating grit classic,
getting a bit more obscure
the Way of The Spaniel at Houndkirk has a good pebble move
There’s a good one at the far end of Burbage south, called something like A Way To Spend Easter which is nice
and County Line at Dukes Seat
> Really good easy one at the Very Far bit of the Roaches:
This was it: Lazy Trout (f5+) or the line up the middle of the slab.
Other favourites already mentioned: 3 Pocket Slab; The Stanage Highballs: Shock Horror Slab, DIY, Daydreamer, Sleepwalker (also Nightrider - not done it, scarier probably);
Shouldn't forget Nicotine Stain (f6B) - bit eliminate but still classic.
Controversially, one of the best ever slabs in the font 6s is Dry Wit in a Wet Country (f7A).
Norwegian climber Mari Augusta Salvesen has made the first female ascent of the burly Ray's Roof E7 6c at Baldstones in Staffordshire. First climbed by visiting American Ray Jardine in 1977, the horizontal offwidth crack remains a gritstone testpiece...