/ Font 5-6 Slabs in the Peak

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Quick question for the masses...

We've just received an article from Katy Whittaker + Ned Feehally on classic slab climbs of the Peak. The focus is very much on bouldering, so no routes, but so far we're looking a little short at the easier end of the spectrum - namely Font 5 & 6s. Being that this is what most people climbs it seems like a shame to omit such a critical grade range.

The criteria is quite strict insofar as it has to be a pure slab, with climbing based upon friction - we don't want any compression or aretes in there! Ordinarily I'd include a few myself, but the only one that sprung to mind is The Big Slab (f4+) at Higgar Tor (which whilst easy, is pretty high!!) - hence we're after some more accessible suggestions that everyone can enjoy. 

I'm sure there's loads of others, but for now am after everyones fun favourites.

Thanks in advance!

spenser - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Pink Slab at Cratcliffe Tor would get my vote, there are a couple of others on the slab on the left of the path as you walk into the stride too which are reasonable.

Good stuff on the lower tier at the Roaches too.

Sorry I can't be more specific, my guidebook is at home!

Smelly Fox - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Sex Dwarves (f6B+)

Summit Slab (f5+)

Seventies Style Wall (f6B+)

Just a few off the top of my head...

tjdodd - on 11 Feb 2019
JLS on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I'm not sure if these are the same problems as there seems to be a big grade disparity...

The Lone Slab (f6A)

Lone Boulder Slab (f4+)

Droyd on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I'm sure there are loads more and this list is very Eastern-centric, but a few that stand out to me in terms of quality (although some do have the odd hold/pebble):

Below f5:

Flight Exam (f5+).

The High Road (f3+) Probably my favourite easy boulder in the Peak.

Wall End Slab Direct Start (f4) There are a few others on here.

f5:

The Lone Slab (f6A) Several more on here at 5/low 6.

Crozzle Slab (f5).

Tiny Slab Left (f5) (also Tiny Slab Right (f6A)) - essential, surely.

Blind Pocket Wall (f5+) Several others on this block too, as well as everything else at Cratcliffe/RHS.

Buckstone Groove (f5) Possibly doesn't count but I think it climbs quite slabbily.

f6:

All Quiet on the Eastern Front (f6A+).

Scoop Eliminate (f6A+) (the non-eliminate version, Open Flakeline (f5+), at 5+ is also class).

D.I.Y (f6B) Highball (and I've not actually done it yet) but supposedly fantastic.  Same for the nearby Shock Horror Slab (f6C).

Acid Reign (f6C) (although there's an arete, so possible not...).

Beauty (f6C) Class.

Graeme Hammond - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Beauty (f6C)

Matchbox Slab (f5+)

Flight Exam (f5+)

Three Pocket Slab (f6A)

Joe's Slab/Joe's Direct Start (f5+) + the 6c pocket thing "Mono seam" to the left I did the other day. Rockfax have a right hand version too in the guide which I think is described wrong as is about 6a not 7a. I think it should avoid the large ledge completely on Joe's.

Acid Reign (f6C) if you do the left hand method, the RH way slaping up the arête though involves slab foot work and the whole thing is a steep slab.

Anyway back to work so something to think about this afternoon

Post edited at 13:15
Graeme Hammond - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Droyd:

Looks like typing the same thing at the same time!

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Great minds think alike ;-)

SDM on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Appliance Friction (f6B) at Stanton in the woods. So good I repeated it about 10 times.

Graeme Hammond - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Droyd:

> D.I.Y (f6B) Highball (and I've not actually done it yet) but supposedly fantastic.  Same for the nearby Shock Horror Slab (f6C).

Forgot about those both amazing! In a similar style (ie feel like a solo at the top) and location Sleepwalker (E2 6a) & Daydreamer (E2 6b) are also excellent the latter I got a rope chucked up + gear the first time i did it and tied a bowline round the waist to top out. The crux is near the bottom but the high green finish might be too much for some.

In reply to SDM:

This thread is fantastic, I'd been mulling over this for weeks (albeit alongside a number of more pressing matters, if anything could be considered to be more pressing than this) and for some reason my mind kept coming up blank.

Appliance Friction is an excellent suggestion, as are the great many others that have been made. 

Keep them coming!

joeldering on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Sticking mostly to stuff I've done, and desperately trying to avoid aretes:

Beauty (f6C)

Appliance Friction (f6B) (haven't tried this one, but it gets rave reviews)

Three Pocket Slab (f6A)

Lone Scoop (f5+)

The Big Slab (f4+)

The High Road (f3+)

Post edited at 14:02
planetmarshall on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Two Pocket Slab (f5+)

In reply to joeldering:

I think that's a pretty solid list there. Only one I haven't done is The High Road, but the rest are pure quality...

joeldering on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Class setting and a unique feature - combine with A Case of Mistaken Identity (f7B) and Hamper's Hang (f7A+) for a quality day out

JoeFoster59 - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Central Groove Thing at Burbage South

Rabbits Paw Wall at Secret Garden

Caley Slab Burbage South

Open Flakeline Burbage South

The only ones that I can think of that haven’t already been mentioned

Post edited at 14:47
Michael Hood - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Some nice "easy" slabs on the Wimberry boulders all detailed in the RF guide.

mrphilipoldham - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Michael Hood:

I was just scrolling through this thinking that there must be some at Wimberry.. and then what should the final post suggest?! 

Post edited at 17:15
Jon Stewart - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Really good easy one at the Very Far bit of the Roaches: 

afx22 - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Loads of stuff on The Egg boulder at Cratcliffe.

gravy - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to afx22:

railway slabs at black rocks

slab_happy on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

The Careful Trotter (f4)

mark20 - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Renaissance and Mad Bilberries at Baslow both excellent highballs. 

Egg arête at Cratcliffe a frustrating grit classic, 

getting a bit more obscure 

the Way of The Spaniel at  Houndkirk  has a good pebble move 

There’s a good one at the far end of Burbage south, called something like A Way To Spend Easter which is nice

and County Line at Dukes Seat   

Jon Stewart - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Really good easy one at the Very Far bit of the Roaches: 

This was it: Lazy Trout (f5+) or the line up the middle of the slab.

Other favourites already mentioned: 3 Pocket Slab; The Stanage Highballs: Shock Horror Slab, DIY, Daydreamer, Sleepwalker (also Nightrider - not done it, scarier probably); 

Shouldn't forget Nicotine Stain (f6B) - bit eliminate but still classic.

Controversially, one of the best ever slabs in the font 6s is Dry Wit in a Wet Country (f7A)

Rob Gillespie - on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Squeezy Slab (f5)Pine Slab (f5+)

These two must be some of the most climbed slabs on grit. it’s hard to walk though the trees on the lower tier without have a quick go. 

Some lovely friction climbing on the very far skyline boulders lazy trout, loner etc

slab_happy on 12 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Gillespie:

There's some good slabby stuff at the Spring Boulders, for anyone willing to brave the bog to reach them, e.g. Violence (f6A)

joeldering on 23 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Went and did Appliance Friction today  - totally superb and worthy of all the rave reviews (and, for my money, harder than Beauty...)

Bolehillbilly on 23 Feb 2019
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

 Hi Rob,

A few more South Peak ones.

Appliance Friction (f6B) is a great bit of slab work as mentioned previously and Green Chapel Right-Hand Side (f6B+) is worth doing too.

Just Looking (f6A) and Everybody's Slave (f6A) also at Stanton in the Woods are really good slab highballs and currently clean.

Chicken Ninja (f6A+) is another pure padding slab, currently a bit dusty but very good when clean.

Angel Falls (f6C) is brilliant but sadly banned and probably green.

The problems on the diamond block at RH Stride if not mentioned earlier.

The Chiseller (f6B) and Edging Bets (E1 5b) are great though both involve a bit of edge work.


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