/ gogarth enchainments

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rustaldo - on 11 Oct 2012
anyone have any good suggestions for logical enchainments on the gogarth main cliff?

got an idea of doing emulator into cordon bleu. (any superior alternatives?)

is there any option to reaccess the traverse at the base of the cliff via abseil (potentially leaving gear that could be recovered on the way back up)

just curious..
alasdair19 on 12 Oct 2012
In reply to rustaldo: emulator also goes well with ramp or gauntlet and is more straight up! this would allow u to leave water bottles at the bottom of the upper tier.

worth getting along the bottom and ticking hud and mestizo and or scavenger and Night ride... have fun
Jon Stewart - on 13 Oct 2012
In reply to rustaldo:

Does Main Cliff lend itself well to 'logical enchainments'? I think for a really big day, you're better off going for the second option of abbing back down before the rambly upper pitches. Not as satisfying I suppose, but you could get a few great pitches done on the trot that way. I'm afraid all I can help you with is that after the 2 amazing pitches of Assassin you could ab back down off the massive ledge with the blocks to Nightride/Scavenger/Mestizo etc.

Something like this must be possible in Easter Island Gully too. Great routes (I've only done Hombre, thinking for a while it was This Years Model), but with so much steep grass between the climbing and escape, it's surely worth doing some sort of up-and-down-link-up? What about linking something down there into an ab down and traverse onto the LH side of Main Cliff (Mestizo maybe)? I'm not sure it's a goer, but I think the Gogarth North guide will tell you (or you could pick a nice low spring tide and try).
In reply to rustaldo: You can do Imitator the VS first and abseil back to the bottom. Then do Aadvark E2. You can then do Eternal Optomist to the first pitch, there is a good spike to abseil off. You can then do Cordon Bleau.

Alternatively if you have a 100m abseil rope you can abseil into the extreme far end of main cliff and do Scavenger HVS, then abseil straight back down to do Nightride, Heroine or Mestizo.
saintlade - on 13 Oct 2012
In reply to rustaldo: As a connoisseur of ledge shuffling I've been eyeing up doing Imitator (VS) into the Girdle Traverse(HVS), then Dream (HVS)into Annie's Arch but in reverse (E2) and onto Mistaken Identity (HVS) or the first 3 pitches of Flytrap (E2) into Route 66 (VS) for 24 pitches of horizontal action. Yet to find someone else silly enough to come with me yet though.
Old Skooled - on 13 Oct 2012
In reply to saintlade:
Rather than abbing how about downclimbing? One hot day we decided to leave approach shoes at the roping up spot rather than at the top. We did Citadel and near the top realised our shoes were now all the way back at the foot of the main cliff (and our feet already hurt like mad). A neat solution presented itself; we reversed Cordon Bleu until we reached the juncture with Gogarth then down climbed that (all bar top pitch). Voila, back at shoes!

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