UKC

/ Great Crack, Duke's Quarry - almost in condition!

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Chris Craggs - on 09 Jul 2018

Great Crack (HVS 5a)  Duke's Quarry

As in the title, the start is still greasy, but the gear is great and the upper part is clean - maybe worth a visit if you have never done it. Felt like HVS 5b today.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=313523

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=313524

Chris

Post edited at 20:59
Coel Hellier - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Still greasy?  How does it manage that?  When was the last time it rained?

Sam B on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks for the tip

jon on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Damp? Pah, my only ascent was 2 Feb 76. God we were 'ard in them days

J Whittaker - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Must be one for the dank quarry aficionados. The high mountain crags beckon in this weather.

TobyA on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Covered in chalk as well from the number of ascents it's had in recent days too! I want to know if someone has led Dharma next door to it. That was chalked up too.

Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA:

It seems to have had 16 ascents by UKCers already this year. First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago. But Chris says it's still greasy; so there seem to be slightly conflicting accounts as to its dryness. I suspect it'll be quite a long time before the weather is this hot and dry again. It's certainly a route I regret not having done.

Chris Craggs - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

There is a tiny stream coming out of the base of the crag, and today was still and humid, I suspect conditions can be optimal or less so on a daily basis,

 

Chris

jon on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Probably wetter in the afternoon with the snow melt, Chris.

Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It's fascinating to see (in UK gallery) how green the wall to the right is this year compared with 2011.

TobyA on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

It is definitely greasy for about the 5 mtrs or so (or at least was Saturday morning) but you can foot jam there and that works ok. There is some crozzly rock to the left of the crack at about 5 mtrs, if you make it to there you're out of the grease and its all cruising beyond!

Don't regret it, go and do it now!

Kipper - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> ..... First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago.

It was like this last weekend, as I suspect it always is. As I mentioned previously, the first flake is very loose. Dharma did have a lot of chalk on it.

 

CPH - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

...still greasy? I'd have thrown in the towel!

So good effort Graham, Steve and Chris.

Mick Ward - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Great route. Did it with Jim and Will Perrin, late on a dank November afternoon in the 1990s. Jim remembered the way into the quarry, despite not having been there for a quarter of a century. Jeez - I get lost in a broom cupboard!

Mick

paul mitchell - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.

Will Hunt - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to paul mitchell:

> Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.

 

Who did the first ascents, Paul...?

1
thommi - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

great crack is an enjoyable route. I wasn't climbing very well when i did it, and remember spending a long time in the pod after a very slippery time getting up to it. Top half is ace.

Rog Wilko on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Nice pics, Chris. According to my logbook I did this nearly 20 years ago. It made half a memorable day, the other half being Original Route on High Tor. Top grit HVS followed by top limestone HVS. These are the sort of days that stick in the memory.

Jon Greengrass on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.

Rog Wilko on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

> Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.

Not a very eco-friendly comment from someone called Jon Greengrass!!

Mick Ward - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

> Who did the first ascents, Paul...?


Thought Zippy did T.L. (in memory of Tim Lewis). May be wrong though (often am!)

Mick

Will Hunt - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

I'll confess. On a hunch I looked it up. They're both Paul's routes. Oddly, the guide makes no mention of them being the best of their grade on quarried grit, which seems remiss.

1
TobyA on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

Lolz. We're here for the bantz innit?

I want to know when Paul wrote them up for the guidebook whether that included the same eclectic approach to the uses of spaces and grammar that he favours here on UKC. ;-)

Actually I suspect that many of the routes there -if dry and clean, and that's a huge if- would be amongst the best on grit, they're just big compared to most other ones.

Alkis - on 11 Jul 2018

Did it last night! All of it dry, bottom greasy, as described, but nothing problematic at any point! Glad you started this thread, I'd forgotten about wanting to do this gem!

Dave Garnett - on 22 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It was lovely today - it's not often you do a 25m pitch of top jamming in the Peak, superb.

Has no-one tried Destroying Angel since 2015?  I was tempted but thought that anything else would be an anticlimax and retreated for ice cream.

 

Post edited at 23:03
Stoney Boy on 23 Jul 2018
In reply to paul mitchell:

TL AND Dragon ares still damp and have trees growing out of them. They would require a fair bit of graft to get them clean.

Long Nosed Hawk Nasty however is dry and would clean up. It looks every bit the 3 star route.

Surprised no one climbed the flake, thin crack and ramp to the left. A large gap.........

Graeme Hammond - on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Anyone want a belay on this classic route tonight, am keen to try another route. Ideally meet at crag at 6ish as would prefer to drive south from there but could share lifts. Also up for Willersley

In reply to Chris Craggs:

How's Dharma looking Chris?

Dan Arkle - on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

I hear Dharma has been thoroughly cleaned and chalked. 

snoop6060 - on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

We were on it a few weeks back and gave it a good clean/chalk. My mates been back since and gave it another clean so I reckon it's in as good a nick as it will ever be. Bloody hard tho! 

steveb2006 - on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Some worthwhile routes in the nearby Robin Hood Quarry 3 - worth nipping im there after youve ticked Great Crack.

Chris Craggs - on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

> How's Dharma looking Chris?


Well it looked brushed, chalked and utterly impossible!

Chris

ebdon on 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Had a play on this a few weeks ago. It still felt a bit dirty but that was probably due to the horrendus humidity in the quarry that day making everything seem greasy. The pegs seemed in a good state but there was not much other gear, a very bold lead! Fantastic on-off wall climbing and way to hard for me

Graeme Hammond - on 04 Aug 2018
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Dharma didn't look chalked yesterday (it did rain a fair bit last sunday), as previously mentioned the humidity in the quarry is a problem, need some wind! - great crack is less affect as mainly jams but still feels a bit greasy. 

Climbed Thunderstruck (HVS 5b) in the Robin Hood Quarries which was properly cleaned a few years ago. I gave it a 10 minute brush on Thursday it feels more like a E1 but is as good as any 3* route at millstone well worth seeking out while you are there. 

Graeme Hammond - on 04 Aug 2018
In reply to steveb2006:

Did Thunderstruck (HVS 5b) which was excellent! Looking at the comments it looks like you might have had some part in cleaning it a few years ago so many thanks for any effort, but is there any other routes you particularly recommend? 

Post edited at 10:33
Neil Foster - on 06 Aug 2018
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Thanks for brushing up Thunderstruck, Graeme, and to anyone else involved in bringing this classic route back to life.  If really is a fantastic pitch, made all the more satisfying by featuring not one, but several of the best friend placements I've ever encountered.

Don't be put off if the starting crack is damp, which it certainly was yesterday - probably with condensation.  The flake to the left helps, and soon gives access to the immaculate upper crack.

This really is a gem, and probably in the best condition its been in for years.  Grab it whilst you've got the chance....

Neil

Dave Garnett - on 06 Aug 2018
In reply to Neil Foster:

I'd not heard of this one, but I'll go and have a look!

CPH - on 08 Aug 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Dry today all the way.

Chris Craggs - on 08 Aug 2018
In reply to CPH:

Nice one - VS 4c then

 

Chris


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