UKC

/ Great Crack, Duke's Quarry - almost in condition!

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Chris Craggs - on 09 Jul 2018

Great Crack (HVS 5a)  Duke's Quarry

As in the title, the start is still greasy, but the gear is great and the upper part is clean - maybe worth a visit if you have never done it. Felt like HVS 5b today.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=313523

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=313524

Chris

Post edited at 20:59
Coel Hellier - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Still greasy?  How does it manage that?  When was the last time it rained?

Sam B on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks for the tip

jon on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Damp? Pah, my only ascent was 2 Feb 76. God we were 'ard in them days

J Whittaker - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Must be one for the dank quarry aficionados. The high mountain crags beckon in this weather.

TobyA on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Covered in chalk as well from the number of ascents it's had in recent days too! I want to know if someone has led Dharma next door to it. That was chalked up too.

Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA:

It seems to have had 16 ascents by UKCers already this year. First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago. But Chris says it's still greasy; so there seem to be slightly conflicting accounts as to its dryness. I suspect it'll be quite a long time before the weather is this hot and dry again. It's certainly a route I regret not having done.

Chris Craggs - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

There is a tiny stream coming out of the base of the crag, and today was still and humid, I suspect conditions can be optimal or less so on a daily basis,

 

Chris

jon on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Probably wetter in the afternoon with the snow melt, Chris.

Gordon Stainforth - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

It's fascinating to see (in UK gallery) how green the wall to the right is this year compared with 2011.

TobyA on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

It is definitely greasy for about the 5 mtrs or so (or at least was Saturday morning) but you can foot jam there and that works ok. There is some crozzly rock to the left of the crack at about 5 mtrs, if you make it to there you're out of the grease and its all cruising beyond!

Don't regret it, go and do it now!

Kipper - on 09 Jul 2018
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> ..... First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago.

It was like this last weekend, as I suspect it always is. As I mentioned previously, the first flake is very loose. Dharma did have a lot of chalk on it.

 

CPH - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

...still greasy? I'd have thrown in the towel!

So good effort Graham, Steve and Chris.

Mick Ward - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Great route. Did it with Jim and Will Perrin, late on a dank November afternoon in the 1990s. Jim remembered the way into the quarry, despite not having been there for a quarter of a century. Jeez - I get lost in a broom cupboard!

Mick

paul mitchell - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.

Will Hunt - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to paul mitchell:

> Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.

 

Who did the first ascents, Paul...?

thommi - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

great crack is an enjoyable route. I wasn't climbing very well when i did it, and remember spending a long time in the pod after a very slippery time getting up to it. Top half is ace.

Rog Wilko on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Nice pics, Chris. According to my logbook I did this nearly 20 years ago. It made half a memorable day, the other half being Original Route on High Tor. Top grit HVS followed by top limestone HVS. These are the sort of days that stick in the memory.

Jon Greengrass on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.

Rog Wilko on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

> Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.

Not a very eco-friendly comment from someone called Jon Greengrass!!

Mick Ward - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

> Who did the first ascents, Paul...?


Thought Zippy did T.L. (in memory of Tim Lewis). May be wrong though (often am!)

Mick

Will Hunt - on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

I'll confess. On a hunch I looked it up. They're both Paul's routes. Oddly, the guide makes no mention of them being the best of their grade on quarried grit, which seems remiss.

TobyA on 10 Jul 2018
In reply to Will Hunt:

Lolz. We're here for the bantz innit?

I want to know when Paul wrote them up for the guidebook whether that included the same eclectic approach to the uses of spaces and grammar that he favours here on UKC. ;-)

Actually I suspect that many of the routes there -if dry and clean, and that's a huge if- would be amongst the best on grit, they're just big compared to most other ones.

Alkis - on 11 Jul 2018

Did it last night! All of it dry, bottom greasy, as described, but nothing problematic at any point! Glad you started this thread, I'd forgotten about wanting to do this gem!


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