/ Great Crack, Duke's Quarry - almost in condition!
As in the title, the start is still greasy, but the gear is great and the upper part is clean - maybe worth a visit if you have never done it. Felt like HVS 5b today.
Still greasy? How does it manage that? When was the last time it rained?
Thanks for the tip
Damp? Pah, my only ascent was 2 Feb 76. God we were 'ard in them days
Must be one for the dank quarry aficionados. The high mountain crags beckon in this weather.
Covered in chalk as well from the number of ascents it's had in recent days too! I want to know if someone has led Dharma next door to it. That was chalked up too.
It seems to have had 16 ascents by UKCers already this year. First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago. But Chris says it's still greasy; so there seem to be slightly conflicting accounts as to its dryness. I suspect it'll be quite a long time before the weather is this hot and dry again. It's certainly a route I regret not having done.
There is a tiny stream coming out of the base of the crag, and today was still and humid, I suspect conditions can be optimal or less so on a daily basis,
Probably wetter in the afternoon with the snow melt, Chris.
It's fascinating to see (in UK gallery) how green the wall to the right is this year compared with 2011.
It is definitely greasy for about the 5 mtrs or so (or at least was Saturday morning) but you can foot jam there and that works ok. There is some crozzly rock to the left of the crack at about 5 mtrs, if you make it to there you're out of the grease and its all cruising beyond!
Don't regret it, go and do it now!
> ..... First 4m described as 'slightly damp' a week ago, but whole route 'bone dry' three days ago.
It was like this last weekend, as I suspect it always is. As I mentioned previously, the first flake is very loose. Dharma did have a lot of chalk on it.
...still greasy? I'd have thrown in the towel!
So good effort Graham, Steve and Chris.
Great route. Did it with Jim and Will Perrin, late on a dank November afternoon in the 1990s. Jim remembered the way into the quarry, despite not having been there for a quarter of a century. Jeez - I get lost in a broom cupboard!
Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.
> Worth getting on The Dragon |Whose Fire Went Out and T.L,two of the best routes on quarried grit,at E2 asnd E3.Great even on top rope.
Who did the first ascents, Paul...?
great crack is an enjoyable route. I wasn't climbing very well when i did it, and remember spending a long time in the pod after a very slippery time getting up to it. Top half is ace.
Nice pics, Chris. According to my logbook I did this nearly 20 years ago. It made half a memorable day, the other half being Original Route on High Tor. Top grit HVS followed by top limestone HVS. These are the sort of days that stick in the memory.
Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.
> Would be a great venue if all the trees were cut down to let the light in.
Not a very eco-friendly comment from someone called Jon Greengrass!!
> Who did the first ascents, Paul...?
Thought Zippy did T.L. (in memory of Tim Lewis). May be wrong though (often am!)
I'll confess. On a hunch I looked it up. They're both Paul's routes. Oddly, the guide makes no mention of them being the best of their grade on quarried grit, which seems remiss.
Lolz. We're here for the bantz innit?
I want to know when Paul wrote them up for the guidebook whether that included the same eclectic approach to the uses of spaces and grammar that he favours here on UKC. ;-)
Actually I suspect that many of the routes there -if dry and clean, and that's a huge if- would be amongst the best on grit, they're just big compared to most other ones.
Did it last night! All of it dry, bottom greasy, as described, but nothing problematic at any point! Glad you started this thread, I'd forgotten about wanting to do this gem!
It was lovely today - it's not often you do a 25m pitch of top jamming in the Peak, superb.
Has no-one tried Destroying Angel since 2015? I was tempted but thought that anything else would be an anticlimax and retreated for ice cream.
TL AND Dragon ares still damp and have trees growing out of them. They would require a fair bit of graft to get them clean.
Long Nosed Hawk Nasty however is dry and would clean up. It looks every bit the 3 star route.
Surprised no one climbed the flake, thin crack and ramp to the left. A large gap.........
Anyone want a belay on this classic route tonight, am keen to try another route. Ideally meet at crag at 6ish as would prefer to drive south from there but could share lifts. Also up for Willersley
How's Dharma looking Chris?
I hear Dharma has been thoroughly cleaned and chalked.
We were on it a few weeks back and gave it a good clean/chalk. My mates been back since and gave it another clean so I reckon it's in as good a nick as it will ever be. Bloody hard tho!
Some worthwhile routes in the nearby Robin Hood Quarry 3 - worth nipping im there after youve ticked Great Crack.
> How's Dharma looking Chris?
Well it looked brushed, chalked and utterly impossible!
Had a play on this a few weeks ago. It still felt a bit dirty but that was probably due to the horrendus humidity in the quarry that day making everything seem greasy. The pegs seemed in a good state but there was not much other gear, a very bold lead! Fantastic on-off wall climbing and way to hard for me
Dharma didn't look chalked yesterday (it did rain a fair bit last sunday), as previously mentioned the humidity in the quarry is a problem, need some wind! - great crack is less affect as mainly jams but still feels a bit greasy.
Climbed Thunderstruck (HVS 5b) in the Robin Hood Quarries which was properly cleaned a few years ago. I gave it a 10 minute brush on Thursday it feels more like a E1 but is as good as any 3* route at millstone well worth seeking out while you are there.
Thanks for brushing up Thunderstruck, Graeme, and to anyone else involved in bringing this classic route back to life. If really is a fantastic pitch, made all the more satisfying by featuring not one, but several of the best friend placements I've ever encountered.
Don't be put off if the starting crack is damp, which it certainly was yesterday - probably with condensation. The flake to the left helps, and soon gives access to the immaculate upper crack.
This really is a gem, and probably in the best condition its been in for years. Grab it whilst you've got the chance....
I'd not heard of this one, but I'll go and have a look!
Dry today all the way.
Nice one - VS 4c then
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