UKC

/ grigri -:- slight slippage

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la xerra - on 10 Apr 2018

hi, i have noticed a slight slippage of the rope through the grigri..... i climb solo and, f.e. when i am seated and the (top)rope is loaded a minimal movement of the rope occurs ... normal¿...  or do i seek a parachute¿ cheers -:- pit

2
mcgovern - on 10 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

Best to get a parachute 

HeMa on 10 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

Parachute or Redbull

CasWebb - on 10 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

Perfectly normal, and is why you must always keep hold of the rope whilst belaying using a Gri Gri. 

routrax - on 10 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

Have you got a new rope or skinny rope?

I've had slippage on a gri gri 2 with a new 9.5mm, nothing bad just a very slight creep  It goes away when the Rope gets a bit of use.if you've got a really skinny rope (around 9mm or less) it could be that 

Does it slip if you're free hanging? Could also be that you've not got enough weight on it. 

la xerra - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to CasWebb:

yeah, but climbing solo you belay ´yourself´... and in the case i put up, hanging from the rope, you typically dont have one hand on the loose end of the rope... due to removing hardware, etc... a lot of times i am also just seated hand-drilling for new bolts

la xerra - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to routrax:

no, no new rope... and, yes, the slippage is slight... maybe 1-2mm per second... never really timed it..... ita also seems like the heavier the load the less slip..¿¿  ....

& yes, slipping while ´free-hanging´ (although i am unsure what exactly you mean by that.... vs an ´unfree´-hanging?) danke

 

CasWebb - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

The grigri is not designed, or recommended, for self belaying as it cannot guarantee no slippage, as stated by the manufacturer.

routrax - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

Free hanging = just on the rope, no part of you touching the rock.

If it locks with extra weight then it could be the rope, or that you are too light to engage the cam enough to lock the device.

Eat more pies or use a prussik/backup knot. 

la xerra - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to CasWebb:

yep, but moss is also not made to be used as toilet-papper, and yet, it beats it anytime

gotta push the envelop -:- anyhow: since i dont belay with the grigri:: if you belay a climber with a grigri and keep the hand off the rope as recommended > the slippage occurs as well?

if thats the case: why would they manufacture it like that¿ meaning: the slippage is almost meant

gracias

la xerra - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to routrax:

talking about cam-action: are there any studies etc that talk about the wear (hardware) of the grigri... like: after threading X miles of rope through the grigri Y mm(?) get grind off? cheers

deepsoup - on 11 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

> if thats the case: why would they manufacture it like that¿ meaning: the slippage is almost meant

At a guess because it's a belay device and you have to be able to pay out reasonably smoothly. 

There's a spring that holds the cam off the rope, and that's what allows you to pay rope out gently without putting your thumb on the cam.  The Grigri Plus even has a little knob that adjusts the pre-load on that spring, so you can make it less 'grabby' for belaying a leader and more so for top-roping.

Petzl make an industrial lanyard called a Grillon that is basically a Mk1 Grigri semi-permanently threaded onto a short caving rope.  The Grillon has a screw to hold the device closed when there is no carabiner clipped.  (You need a screwdriver to take out the rope.)  And it has no spring, making it super grabby.

The early ones had a funny little knob instead of the handle for lowering, but they've stopped doing that now because it's useful to be able to kinda-sorta abseil/lower with it.

It's never occurred to be before but I think if I wanted to use a Grigri for TR soloing a lot, I think I might look at getting hold of a Grillon and using that instead.  (Second hand most likely, they're quite expensive.)

 

la xerra - on 12 Apr 2018
In reply to deepsoup:

deepsoup, i admire your take to take it all apart, down to the very last damn screw -:- appreciated.... but then: the flipside of that approach is that one is (could be) aware of all those many parts that could fail one day >> and maybe turn one into crunchy peanut-butter...... *ignorance is bliss*, no¿ tschuess

BrendanO - on 17 Apr 2018
In reply to la xerra:

I think if the only thing keeping you off the ground is a GriGri, AND you take your hands off it, then please tie a knot in the rope beneath it now and then. Not perfect, but might be a safety net. Or have a second line with a DMM Catch, Shunt, or similar. Starting to get complicated, but more chance of not getting hurt.

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