UKC

Something of a stupid question, but...

My hands after the last few outdoor sessions have been trashed.  Very specifically, the backs of my hands getting gouged whilst trying to ie explore cracks for holds etc, particularly under "pressure" (cough fear cough)

Certainly to some extent the answer is "move more slowly", but would be interested to know if people have specific techniques or exercises around improving this. 

I don't know how to replicate and train this indoors.

By your logbook it looks like you mean on gritstone? In which case it's quite unavoidable really. 99.9% of my climbing is on it, and the backs of my hands are permanently bearing cuts and grazes. There are always pebbles and edges that'll be unseen by eye, but easily caught by skin. Moving slowly may help to some degree. 

You could of course buy some cheat glov.. I mean, jamming gloves These cover the backs of your hands so take the brunt of the damage.

If you're climbing grit cracks then tape gloves are not a bad idea:

youtube.com/watch?v=wu-RUQWJtYw&

I made the second option which starts at 3:50 in the video. All you have to do is cut the bit around the wrist off after use and you can put them back on next time. Just uses enough tape to go around your wrist a couple of times each time. Way less obstructive than all these rubber jamming gloves that seem to be about (and ethically a bit less 'cheaty?!). 

I'm sure jamming masters have the technique to not mash their hands up but I don't. 

The skin on the back of your hands is thin and doesn't heal very well so it's better to keep it covered if it's going to be rubbing on rock. 

Your best option is to do laps on Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b)

i actually did it on the swanage climbs too, slightly different situation (just caught on sharp edges around/inside cracks).  Not actually jamming (intentionally at least) just feeling around!

I adopt a similarly strict ethical position with regard to cheaty rubber. The trouble is making a new pair of tape shoes before each route takes longer than climbing the damn thing.

The problem is that you're trying to use the jam without weighting it properly. Much dragging a nut around inside a crack trying to find a placement, this doesn't work so well. 

• Spot the jam placement.
• Make your hand thin and place it into the right position.
• Engage the jam. 
• Weight the jam. 

With a bit of getting used to, this reduces skin impact significantly. I also use jamming gloves because I'd be a fool to ignore obvious good equipment  

Gloves = less hand impact = more routes = awesome.