/ Horseshoe Quarry rammed on a Friday!
I was heading down to the Roaches yesterday (Friday) (actually ended up in Churnet Valley) and the Peak crag car parking spots were quiet as expected as we passed. That is, except for Horseshoe which was rammed at mid day, with parking also in the lay bys up the road. I pass regularly from where I live, and this isn’t rare.
I first went back in the ‘80s to do stuff like Shot yer Bolt, which I remember being a bit bleak to lead with really spaced gear. I guess I’ve only been back 2 or 3 times in the intervening 30 years (I only live a couple of miles away!), so it looks like the BMC investment was well spent regearing the quarry. Who would have thought it?
Kill me now.
I saw it busy there too around lunch time en-route to Froggatt. The more people there, and the less out on the decent climbing the better as far as I'm concerned!
I think it's like Kilnsey... sport climbing has been becoming for some time now relatively more popular within the family of climbing games. I'm just waiting for someone to blame it dishonesty on the BMC as part of the current dirty AGM politics.
I climbed at Rivelin yesterday and had the crag to myself..............
Except a good bit of Peak trad climbing needs more traffic to keep it clean.
I'd still rather brush off scrittle as I went at Wimberry than queue..! (Tongue in cheek, I might add).
I guess those thirty or so Gentleman Adventurers may see it as a threat to Alpenstock sales ;-)
PS as far as we could see (which admittedly isn't far down there), had the whole of the Churnet to ourselves and had a simply brilliant afternoon bouldering and a suitably quirky cuppa at the Ramblers Rereat.
> I think it's like Kilnsey
Took my wife there a few years ago. She didn't appear to particularly enjoy it. "Try to drag me to horseshit quarry again and I'll divorce you" was her verbatim summary of the experience. Next time we went to Stanage which she seemed to enjoy more.
I was referring to the popularity not the quality.
We drove past Stanage Popular today which looked hateful, as did High Neb, as did the Uni Club at Crow Chin, luckily sanity returned a couple of hundred yards further on and we hardly saw anybody all afternoon. Really nice day today too.
Hell is other people. Good that folk are enjoying themselves, but if one finds little comfort in queuing for a polished severe then hateful might be a feeling towards them regardless. It's not personal, per se.
Pule Hill Quarry, about 5'o'clock on a drizzly December evening IS the place to be.
I went to the far right around Apparent North on the Bank Holiday Saturday and virtually had the place to my self.
(.....Dovestone Tor on BH Monday and, apart from one other party, we did have the crag to ourselves)
Dovestone Tor on BH Monday and, apart from one other party, we did have the crag to ourselves
Yeah, but its miles. I bet it was a bit cooler there than Stanage, mind
> Kill me now.
I soloed across Popular End on a busy day in my 100 routes in a day effort and didn't queue once and recieved plenty of encouragement from strangers, including letting me climb their route first. I find most climbers kind and good company... more heaven than hell. Despite an attraction to Stanage and its crowds I've climbed pretty much every route below HVS on the edge and know there are always quiet areas with really good routes. I also always enjoy Pule Hill and Dovestones but not because they are quiet, more that they have great routes in an impressive setting. I've never climbed at Horseshoe: just had a look, on a few occasions, and shook my head in wonder: no offense to those who enjoy it but its just not me.
> No, no it's good! Shitty quarries acting as "sinks" for the people crawling out of climbing walls; the BMC should bolt up a few more ;-)
Stanage popular end and Burbage is a ‘sink’ too, it’s the price we pay in having a critical mass of climbers paying for the successful clmbing walls we rely on in the Winter or when it rains or when we just need to train.
Plenty of quiet routes and problems on Burbage North as well and like Stanage on an early spring or summer morning you could think its a different crag. Its not a sink, nor are they keeping climbing walls open for 'us'. They are all us.
Hi, yes that probably looks like a brutal analysis which I didn’t mean it to be, I served part of my apprenticeship at Stan Pop. I’d be interested to hear what Graeme A has to say about the financial model though.
By ‘we’, I meant the population of long-term climbers which represents a fairly constant income stream to the walls (higher in areas like Leeds, Shef and Nottm etc.). If walls are like most other businesses, then they improve their offerings and grow by growing their income. In the case of walls, that requires a growing ‘churn’ of beginners, a high proportion of whom won’t be climbing in a few years time as life pulls them in a different direction. A lot of these beginner climbers are to be found at Stan Pop.
I wasn’t being disrespectful, but observing that this is the model which keeps the walls open. (Or Graeme will tell me that’s a load of nonsense) ;-)
> I think it's like Kilnsey... sport climbing has been becoming for some time now relatively more popular within the family of climbing games. I'm just waiting for someone to blame it dishonesty on the BMC as part of the current dirty AGM politics.
Oh FFS Steve. Give it a rest! That has nothing, NOTHING, to do with this thread.
P.S. Horseshoe is nothing, NOTHING, like Kilnsey.
I'll stop when someone on the tier 1 side starts apologising for the dirty tactics of some of their supporters, spreading rumours that continued SE funding for participation would unleash hordes of ignorant indoor climbers on the outdoors or that the BMC would soon be abandoning the Risk Participation Statement. Or maybe when Bob apologises for accusing myself and others of defaming him, in his letters, when all we are doing is publicly complaining about his continued bad behaviour. At some point these communications will leak and people then can see whats what. Do you deny these things are happening?
I've said before: fair debate is not possible when faced by dirty tricks like secret distribution of abuse and fake news.
PS I still maintain the crowding problems at Kilnsey and Horseshoe, which is what I commented on here, have the same main cause: a relative increase in popularity of sport climbing amongst climbing games, for existing outdoor climbers, especially at the upper ends of the ability range.
Thats more like the fair minded UKC Paul I know and respect. In my experience, especially at Nottingham Depot, only a small minority will have climbed routes at Stanage Popular. Things have changed significantly from when the Foundry opened as a wet weather and training option for outdoor climbers.
just got back from Stanage (again), and walked into a BMC thread. This is getting as bad as the Brexit thing......
> What a real master stroke bolting up this dump and thus taking the pressure off the good crags.
I led Shot yer Bolt for advertising photos for a new Wild Country harness in ‘86 or ‘87, the skill of the photographer really came to the fore when he made it look like Boux (or some other better crag ;-)
> (.....Dovestone Tor on BH Monday and, apart from one other party, we did have the crag to ourselves)
I'd say you were lucky. Quite often you won't be the only person who thinks heading to a more remote crag on a typically busy day of the year is a good idea. Both times I've been to Dovestone Tor I've found at least two other parties there, once an entire mountaineering club.
I'm ashamed to say it was my first trip in 25 years climbing in the Peak.
Won't be my last, hopefully.
Funny thing but having got some younger friends started in trad it's all going very well.....until. We took a trip to Horseshoe for a change and they got the sport bug straight away. With the news of Megos and Ondra hitting the big bolted numbers, the reduced gear faff and the need to buy less gear means the younger breed are drawn to it.
Personally I won't climb on sport but this is great news for those of us more trad inclined, quieter crags.
> In the case of walls, that requires a growing ‘churn’ of beginners, a high proportion of whom won’t be climbing in a few years time as life pulls them in a different direction.
They also fuel a great second hand gear market.
Horseshoe most definitely does not attract me as a 25 year old man! Personally I like my holds to look like they will stay put, why can't we have a bit of Pembrokeshire in the Peak?!
Quite a lot of Pembroke is disposable too! But infinitely better
Fair enough on the disposable front, not difficult to be better than inland UK limestone really...
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