UKC

Wondering whether the crags were busy or not this weekend.

Went to Nesscliffe on Saturday, only two other teams on the ropes on the whole crag, plus some boulderers somewhere (saw some setting off from the parking). Plenty of space at the official parking up the lane past the school (slightly longer walk in but I think it’s sensible to use this as it’s away from the village). Fair few families out for a stroll in the woods. Some friends went there today, looks like there were at least a couple of teams there.

Went to Water-cum-Jolly on Monday. Monsal Head car park rammed with walkers and sightseers but there were a few parking spots free in the usual place down in Cressbrook. Fair few walkers on the paths. Rubicon was deserted until a team of four and a couple of boulderers turned up (plus a very friendly crag cat!). We headed over to Moat Buttress, where there were a couple of other teams, one Crunch Buttress and one on Moat Buttress itself. Another team wandered over and said their plan A had been Horseshoe but it was rammed (of course) so instead they headed to Swamp Wall (I think) - they agreed it was a much nicer spot!

I drove past the Birchen/Gardom's parking today at ab out 10.30 am and it was really busy - don't how many were walkers or cyclists though, and how many were climbers.

No other teams at Chasecliffe, one other team in Duke's Quarry no other teams in any of the Robin Hood Quarries.

Millstone on Thursday or Friday evening (can't remember) had a couple of other pairs of climbers, Gardoms on Saturday was the busiest I've ever seen it as its a crag you normally get to yourself. I was in a group of four and there was about 8-10 other climbers doing routes and some boulderers walking around. I didn't go to Marks Roof but there's always someone there too.

Went for a family walk yesterday around Stoney yesterday. Horseshoe was heaving. Stoney West & Goddards only had one pair and the whole of Stoney only had one pair. 

There were quite a few people about between Hayfield and Hadfield yesterday, some on bikes, some walking. 

I couldn't see any teams on the downfall from above Hayfield. 

Went to Back Forest yesterday but didn't turn up until 5:30. Parking at Roche End was ok by then (part of my cunning "go late" plan 😁) but still lots of cars. Must have been heaving round the front at the main Roaches and Hen Cloud parking.

I was the only one climbing there but more people walking than usual. A lot of those were obviously not walkers but just people out enjoying the countryside.

Plan today is to arrive at Stanage/Burbage area mid/late afternoon to avoid any crowds. [working from home has facilitated my master plan of working Mon and Tue mornings and having 2 afternoon/evening climbing sessions (rather than Mon holiday, Tue work all day) - not sure what my hands and arms are going to feel like after today though 😔]

I took a reverse psychology approach to finding a quiet spot yesterday and went to Stanage (fully prepared to move on if reverse psychology didn't work). Hooks parking was full, but nobody on the verges. Carried on to Plantation parking which was fairly quiet in the pay and display with, again, nobody on the verges. Astonishingly, as we walked in we couldn't see any other teams on the crag, and we weren't there early. A handful of other teams were around for a few hours but by late afternoon it felt like we were the only climbers out again. Even the full Hooks parking might have been mostly non-climbers because the crag didn't look remotely busy from below.

Obviously not ideal conditions yesterday for climbing hard on grit but the combination of blazing sun with a pleasant breeze made it perfect for cruising, which was all we had planned.

Popular end of Stanage was busy yesterday but not ridiculously so. Certainly no issues keeping away from other groups. 

A lot of people bouldering at Widdop. Drove past more cars than I've ever seen there on my way to somewhere with no-one else  

I got a message from my climbing team mates that the parking at Masson Lees was full by 10am. Not bothered going out since this Covid thing there are loads of non climbing things I want to do and seems like a good time to do them. Keeping training for when I finally do go outside.

Wallowbarrow on Sunday - just two of us all day.

Dow Crag on Monday - four teams all day.

I spent Monday on Hound Tor, few other groups climbing, few boulderers, loads of walkers, plenty easy to distance - everyone respecting personal space, had a lovely time. Got asked quite a few times what we were carrying, seems to happen quite a bit when you have an organic big pad strapped onto your 5'1 partner.

Stony Edge the world class Lancashire bouldering venue was rammed....with 15-20 people there at one point....that's why Stanage was quiet.......

About 25 people at Kilnsey when i drove passed quite early on Monday. 

Not much social distancing going on at the sunbathing spot under quiet flight and parking was usual sh#t show.  

I thought the farmer had expressed wishes for people not to climb here. 

The whole thing just filled me with disappointment in my fellow climbers.

Dukes and Robin Hood Quarries should not have any climbers ever on the grounds of common sense and self preservation!

Great Crack (HVS 5a) is amazingly dry and clean currently. Drier than when I did it in July 2018 - in the midst of the long hot summer. The steep starting moves are not greasy even let alone damp.

Thunderstruck (HVS 5b) was still a bit damp down at the start, but looked dry above. We just bouldered around at the start, but Dave wants to go back and do it this summer if the weather remains this dry. I'm not sure I'd get up it, but happy to second and maybe give it a brush first.

Maybe 5 or 6 groups at horsehose on Saturday but we arrived later in the day

No bugger climbing up on the southern kinder edges, although a few boulders on the wool packs. my first trip up there and the climbing was awesome!

There's an astonishing amount of rock in those quarries, some of it apparently quite solid, but a lot of the tops need some gardening.  

Did you walk in from Seathwaite or go through the farm? I was wondering about the options there recently ...

Went to Stanage on Saturday and there was literally no one else climbing, (it was a bit blowy mind)

Woolpacks is great but a bit of a walk in. One of the places where I was reminded that I should check the way down BEFORE getting up a problem on anything that has a face on all sides - oops.

Ran past there today - it's empty.

Horrendous amounts of donkey lines on some of the problems.

Quiet at  Sunnybrow

But I doubt the place is often overrun. It's a great venue for beginners (and lovers of lapwings) but unlikely to satisfy the hardcore. 

Frodsham (Hoopla Buttress) for a few hours in the middle of yesterday. Saw two other couples, both headed off further down the crag. 

I've always thought it better for looking at than climbing on. 

That's interesting re Gardoms, perhaps a case of people seeking out less visited crags. Stoney - well, it's hardly busy and for good reason - everything is nails!

It's probably because it was blowing a Gail, and gardoms is great for hiding from the wind. 

If I consider only the quality of the moves/problems then I might agree with you. But as an overall experience on a sunny spring day, it was great.

Is really no one else going to snigger childishly at the typo besides me? <chortle> Ok. Done. Apologies.

We parked by the Newfield and walked across the fields. If you were planning to park at the farm, I’d suggest you phone the farmer first to ensure he is happy to have visitors.(Ours was a last minute trip, with no time to check).

Thanks ... yes agree heading to the farm without checking would be a bad idea. Not sure I'd bother them at this stage personally but they are usually very friendly.

Most of the rock is shit .. no hard surface just scrittle over the soft matrix... and since listed, despite low traffic, some problems are already trashed (with the worst affected showing orange scars where the surface has gone).

On a brief inspection (while walking) I concluded it was unclimbable due to the loosely embedded sharp pebbles.

"some of it apparently quite solid," something has to hold the choss and loose block up!

One other rope team and a couple of boulderers and walkers spotted at Gardom's on Friday. Castle Naze was pretty busy on Saturday - probably about five separate groups - but nowhere busy enough to be problematic. Hopefully with everyone trying to pick obscure crags for some space and quiet, the lesser-climbed crags in the Peak will see some traffic - every cloud and all.

I was at Swanage Winspit on Saturday and although it was busy there was some fairly good SD going on between teams as there is space to spread out. HOT HOT though as it is a suntrap but a dip in the sea solved that for my dog anayway. 

Did anyone go to Portland? what was that like??   

Well if some people are to be believed, anyone who went to Portland is probably lying in a ditch now. I might be exaggerating a bit there.

A few other teams at Nesscliffe on Saturday but no SD issues. Only two other teams on Ramshaw on Sunday as far as we could see. Fair few of tourists ambling about at the top though. Saw mountain rescue go past, presumably something at the Roaches. Play it safe, people...