UKC

how hard ?

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 osheye 28 Aug 2021

hi all you clever people , can anyone tell me is there any protection on the crux of amphitheatre buttress on craig yr ysfa , thanks

 Offwidth 28 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

'Crux' steep wall is protected. Tons of other info here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/craig_yr_ysfa-530/amphitheatre_but...

The initial slabs are good but much harder than advertised in some guidebooks, especially in big boots.  Some people find the pinnacle pitch very airy. The top pitch might require care as there has been some rockfall a few years back.

 Trangia 28 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

Plenty of protection there, technically the earlier moves are a little more tricky than the moves on the exposed steep wall once you have stepped round the corner onto it, where, although steep it is pretty juggy and you can safely enjoy the exposure. It's a lovely pitch, and I'd say the best on the route.

Post edited at 19:22
 wilkie14c 28 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

I found the descent far scarier than anything on the route

In reply to wilkie14c:

That descent - oh my god! - -

Removed User 29 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

Just remember the crux is not always the crux.

 NBR 29 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

Was on it last Saturday in the loverly drizzle, started too far left and struggled to fin gear there but when on the actual route gear was found when needed. Got a good wire and ok cam just before crux so all good.

 Cornish boy 29 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

I remember there being decent protection on ‘the crux’ and it certainly is polished! As Trangia mentioned, the holds improve once you go around the corner as the exposure really starts to bite. Good nut placement(s) on this steep wall. 
Take plenty of slings for the knife edge traverse and my advice would be to split the final pitch into two shorter pitches of approximately 30m, even if you’ve got a 60m rope. 
Hope that helps. It’s a great route! 

Post edited at 14:12
OP osheye 30 Aug 2021
In reply to osheye:

thanks to all for replies

 John Mcshea 30 Aug 2021
In reply to wilkie14c:

We went to do this route as teens, after wimping out of starting the actual route we proceeded to come close to dying scrambling up the gully to the ridge. The words Craig yr ysfa became synonymous with the word terror. We never returned.....

 wilkie14c 30 Aug 2021
In reply to John Mcshea:

I’m either a glutton for punishment or just very stupid as we only descended the gully to retrieve sacks and make a start on Great Gully! 😬


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