UKC

Agden Rocher

The crag is in good nick at the moment and weather looks good for the week. Conditions were pleasant even on some of the obscurer lines Moff and I were climbing yesterday.  All the starred routes Ive done (most below E1) are worth their labels. I'd trust the grades more in the latest Eastrn Grit than the BMC definitive (eg from yesterday Double De-Clutch (HVS 5a) is solid HVS 5a* and Deadnettle Crack (S 4b) is possibly S 4b). Yes there is some suspect rock (especially friable banded stuff on the first metre of some starts and some loose Millstone like finishes on unstarred lines but nothing that should faze experienced climbers too much on starred routes. The bracken on top has died so stakes are a bit more visible again.

Please be considerate with parking: stay as far off the road as you can and don't park too near or opposite gates. The walk-in is only 5 minutes anyhow.

slab_happy and I did a nice unlisted line last week: Campsite Capers (VS 5a) VS 5a*... take the twin cracks right of Campsite Crack (S 4a) (with blinkers) and above this jam up through a bulge. From the ledge (we belayed) take a groove and move left into Campsite Crack. Climb this for 2m and then traverse airily back out right to the arete, just under the roof, and finish up the arete (save a Camalot 3 or equivalent).

For my money the most beautifully situated crag in the Peak.

Worth noting that approach from the other end of the path ( a point just N of the junction  between Agden Side Road and Smallfield Lane) provides a pleasant 20 minute walk with apparently unlimited parking.

Good to know. The outlook from the crag is indeed fine.

apart from the one in the middle of the descent path that I managed to trip over every single time!

Some photos if anyone's interested

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2158321064191670&type=1&l...

Nice pix, thanks for sharing.

Agreed. The view from the top is second to none in the Peak.

I climbed here in the mid 70's and we had the place to ourselves. I recall several really good routes but can't remember which ones we did. Fond memories.

The Pubs in Bradfield are good as well. More so the one back down near the dam.

Don't forget the village also produces one of the finest beers on sale in Farmer's Blonde.

And cyclists might like the challenge of the full Bradfield climb, from the cricket field, up to the Old Horns then on up Kirk Edge, all newly surfaced.

I never liked the bottled version of Farmer's Blonde so was foolishly put off it for years. Belatedly discovered it's really lovely as a draft beer.

Anther vote for the Rocher, lovely this time of year with the leaves falling and the sun on the crag.

Not sure about Double de Clutch 'solid HVS' maybe grudgingly 5a, but a one mover and good gear, interesting 'new line' offwidth have to check it out, over 20 new routes have been done since the last guide- some rather good.

Only one place to go for a beer after - the brewery tap - The Nags Head...great beer, great prices and Belgian Blue on soon.

And now Offwidth can witness that I'm a real person!

I really enjoyed my first visit to the crag -- I thought Bianco (VS 4b) in particular was excellent, especially if you make life more interesting for yourself by sticking to the right side of the arete as much as possible.

I look forward to seeing you in the 'king of the mountains' jersey.

The second prize is the climbing helmet I dropped off the crag when we climbed at Agden.  

From my logbook comment "2nded Matt earlier in the evening but soloed whilst Matt was setting up an abseil to retrieve a runner he dropped in a tree. Not really HVS, even sticking right on the arête as I did, the two cruxs have excellent gear on route without resorting to the VDiff to the left despite what others have said. For instance if you are climbing the arête properly at the top there is a thin crack that takes multiple wires on the right hand side. Good climbing but VDiff is a distraction to the left in places/makes it escapable."

Wouldn't personally be bothered too much about a bit of grade fluctuations, more useful is that the rockfax guide isn't described back to front! Sorry Paul but it is infuriating to use please use L-R in any more guide books you write.

Would be nice if the crag was listed L-R on UKC too

As crag moderator I decided to leave the sequence the same as the bmc guide to reduce confusion. If people think it would be better reversed then I don't mind changing it? 

I was a bit surprised it was right to left when I looked the other day - I would deffo say swap them round,

Chris

I agree its reasonably well protected. I thought it tough for 5a and although it would be VS for giants I had to commit off balance for the top of the middle tier (gear at waist level but the edge wasn't all as good as I'd have liked) and also on the top tier (gear on crack on rhs). Moff was climbing  at least a technical  grade harder (as she often has to on grit with her reach). We are pretty wired in by now on judging what's VS for VS onsight leaders, so we will stick with our view unless we missed a trick.. Compared to old school grading its maybe VS (or if you stray left off the arete): Burbage Infinity is the earliest of the new series and Paul sure is old school.

I also think it's VS not HVS for the reasons Graeme outlined above...

I also agree that its a great crag!

Knowing your opinions about spelling and so on, I'm reluctant to point it out but......

You may as well. To add to my lifetime problem with spelling I now have poor eyesight and a tablet autocorrect 'on the blink'. It's why most of my 'off belay' posts get an edit: I do my best to get posts right but beyond a certain level of effort I find it's quicker and easier to spot mistakes in the live post (utilising instilled shame?).

You know I was only poking fun (I hope).

An American would say I was wrong, anyway!

A real person? Still not entirely sure... someone I'd only recently met subsequently keen to go to Agden did have a small potential risk of being a wind-up or even a possible delusion !?  If the meeting hadn't been at the Stanage Forum I may have been seriously worried

Hopes? I am an obsesive climber on a forum I 'd like to have more 'proper' climber input. My 'tribe' are often ruthless in their banter. I can cope with such people, have even encouraged them at times by playing the fool, and tbh I can even tolerate those being outright insulting if their site contribution is positive.

Agden is the bomb although some big loose stuff on the far left. But how do you pronounce 'Rocher'?

Are you going to update your site with the routes you've done? Would be interesting to see your thoughts on grades, particularly the obscurer routes...

It always used to be known as Harecliffe Rocher, I wonder when that changed?

It was also a lot more highly regarded than it is these days - this from Eric Byne:

"Peter Biven, by his lead of this [Moyer's Buttress], and of Congo Corner on Mississippi Buttress on Stanage, proves his right to stand alongside Joe Brown as one of the great rock climbers of today. It is worth noting that he has also led the overhang crack on the right hand wall of Moyer's Buttress, the Sloth on the Roaches, and moreover has led in nails on a wet and windy day, that superb climb on Harecliffe Rocher, the Whittler."

Email me through UKC  and I'll send you the word file. Our computer, with all the Flash software we use for the site, crashed just as we were ready for a big update. Might be back again soon as its still the Peak crag we have the most left to do for good routes we can climb that are currently in condition. I could even go tomorrow if anyone is interested in meeting up.

Nah, I'm far too implausible to be made up.

If someone wanted to invent me as some sort of catfishing persona, they'd surely go for something much more credible.

Implausibility is a sign of potential delusion (pour moi), non?

pm'd you about tmrw.

We used to go back then, it was the cheapest bus ride out of Sheffield to a crag less than 10p I seem to recall, never saw many climbers, great location.

In reply to overdrawnboy:

You youngsters When I first lived in Sheffield in the 1970's it was 5p anywhere within the limits of the Council boundary. Getting to Castleton was a lot more expensive. We used to get the bus on a Sunday from Hunters Bar. In fact, there was a whole fleet, as so many people used the service. You often had to wait until the third bus turned up before there was any space for new passengers.

I remember in the mid to late seventies that I used to hitch up to Sheffield but then take the bus to the city limits at the Fox House Inn cause it was so cheap.

Buses everywhere else felt so expensive.

4 more excellent routes today.

Man of God (VS 4b) welcome Offwidth and pray for what you are about to receive. Easily worth a star.

Spring Lamb Dopiazza (VS 4c) it really doesn't look possible at the grade from below but it works out beautifully. A tad reachy in parts. Star worthy. 

Gordon's Climb (VS 4c) just lovely apart from the last few metres (which was safe). Great climbing, great position so a 2 star contender.

S.O.S. (VS 4c) seemed pretty obvious with the BMC guide. The tree doesn't get in the way. A contender for 2 stars in my view. Fun bouldering start then takes the easiest way up the crag via a very beefy upper corner.

Plus some true esoterica with a finish harder than the climbing (which was good). 

Bull Crack (VS 4b)

Which way did you go on S.O.S as per the topo or the description?  The sandy cave is very cool!

Description... topo line obviously wrong. Its much easier to make topo line mistakes so I'd normally always trust descriptions where they contradict. Everything about the route was cool.

The Eastern grit topo is also wrong. I think it shows that on wooded crags like Agden its best to use topo diagrams or crag sketches.

Hi Graeme I will check out the description to SOS when I get back, I have done it many, many times and I think its accurate (always find it tough on that upper corner). The BMC added the topos later which are on the whole next to useless!

Paul

The SOS BMC description was spot on. Eastern grit implies the tree gets in the way (it doesn't) and calls the square cut vertical upper corner a groove. I'd say both guidebooks understate the quality of the climbing. It's similar in diffculty (maybe a tad easier) and almost in quality to something like Lyon's Corner House for me.

On S.O.S. (VS 4c) I found the start hard for the supposed "4b" but Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a) was much more strenuous high up.

For me, SOS sums up both the good and bad of Agden. On the negative side I found the rock worrying approaching the tree. On the good side, you really go on a journey through terrain you can't fully assess from the ground. The upper corner feels like a very different place to the bouldery start or tree negotiating section and you encounter some cool features along the way. This is fairly unusual for "grit" where you can often judge the style and atmosphere of a climb from the ground.

I probably prefer The Whittler (VS 4c). It's a fun varied trip as above but with better rock.

Despite some of the more complementary things posted here, I thought the loose rock at Agden seemed pretty bad even compared to similar graded routes on peak limestone. (e.g. at Ravensdale)

I found White Rose Flake (VS 4c) particularly bad since it features a sort of hollow, quivering chimney-groove which reminded me strongly of rotten chipboard and sounded like it when knocked. The large blocks resting on top of campsite crack also had me wondering whether they're just waiting for one unlucky climber. By contrast The Whittler (VS 4c), Scarred Climb (HS 4a) and Bianco (VS 4b) seemed fine.

I didn't notice that on WRF. But the whole upper section of the face left of it seems to be a slab just an inch or two deep in places with a gap behind it. If you pull outwards on the holds right of the finishing crack of Martini/Bianco, then the rock visibly flexes...

Thats similar to my experience too. Will have a look next time at the finishes right of Bianco as its been a few years since I climbed those lines. WRF looks E1 and climbs beautifully... worth its star.

In reply to J Hiley

I really liked the exploratory feel on SOS..The start might only be tough 4b but I should imagine the easiest way is not so easy to spot onsight and it's brutal looking face on (*beta alert for info below). The rock is good if you stay right of the tree and the amazing rock finger (going straight to the tree takes you through much dodgier looking terrain). The corner was tough 4c... it reminded me of slightly shorter version of the GNR crux, without the airy approach moves and exposure.

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*Beta alert

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Climb the steep right side of the groove to a jug , walk your feet up and get your left foot or knee out on a ledge left of the groove and pull for the top.

Eek... It was a few years ago but I remember wedging into a v-groove which felt spookily hollow. For someone who enjoys peak limestone I have a fairly low tolerance for loose rock though.

I'm gradually working my way through the sub-HVS routes there, done 50 so far, hence am onto the generally obscurer stuff. There is much, much more worrying rock than on White Rose Flake!!

I always think the 'now you see it' photo in the crag photos is a pretty good indication of what to expect!  To be fair, I have done ten or so routes there and love the place, but there is some pretty poor rock in quite a few spots.  Part of the experience perhaps?

Belatedly - 'Roacher' not 'Roshay'

Rosher surely?

A few more worthy adventures from the obscure stuff we did today:

Square Chimney (VD) ... need to check the official line as its not clear in the latest guide..... we, escaped left below the top of the green but clean chimney (behind the yew) and finished up the wall 2m left with nice exposure. S 4a ish the way we did it, on solid rock and really surprisingly good.

Oak Tree Saunter (VD) varied wandering including some oak  tree climbing to gain holds on the upper wall. Take care with loose rock in the corner. A bit reachy leaving the tree and maybe more like S 4a for that.

Bradfield Arête (S 4a)  good steep wall and crack  jugging to reach the arete in excellent position near the finish. Avoid some of the tilting blocks (no harder doing this). Upper end of S 4a.

Maybe can't quite  give any of these a star in BMC terms but they all had very interesting climbing for the adventurous minded who can be careful with some loose rock.

"Monsieur, wiz zis Agden Rocher you are really spoiling us!"

Good effort Offwidth, I am down to 6 or so routes to tick the crag (routes I cannot find or girdles) if you run out of routes to climb let me know and I can send you details!

As ever with Peak grit we climb everything we know of that isn't shit and that we can get up, so always glad to be sent stuff not available anywhere else. Thanks are also due to slab happy who by a happy accident agreed to go on a cold sunny day a few weeks back. It reminded me how good it, was and how much Lynn and I still had the potential to climb there. Its one of the few places like that on eastern grit where we hadn't pretty much already climbed everything in those terms and the return to some  quality new adventure is much appreciated.

As A Barnsley lad I use't to go there quite a lot, a great crag with a great view nearly as good as Wharncliffe, the number of times I have just gone there in the evening and soloed for a few hours then watched the sun go down, sheer beauty ?   

keith s

Your judgement has been impaired by your itinerant lifestyle, Keith.

The view from Agden is far more attractive  and the fact that it hasn't got a route called Pylon Crack is a bit of a clue.......   :}

Been meaning to remark on this thread for a while. I recall one of my earliest climbs on grit was The Whittler (VS). It seemed not to be too broken or loose - in fact, it was the first VS I'd done, so was moderately chuffed as a 17 year old (especially as the crag was, in my rather inexperienced mind, a 'big' gritstone crag. I don't really recall being put off by the outlook at all either.

Thee are about 4 excellent variations on that route, with the main line being very friendly for the grade with good protection and  holds appearing just as you need them. Certainly the best VS introduction to the crag.

Cleaned the stuff around the yew on Deadnettle area.

The wall of    Hypotenuse Wall (VD) seems to have a tricky HS 4b ish crux at 6m, unless you follow the easiest line, use the tree and move left to the ledges behind it, then back right on the wall above. Also cleaned a variation starting crack just right (S 4b). 

Square Chimney (VD) is now clear of the yew and ivy  (why I missed it)  and makes a pleasant VD. Move right from the chimney at 5m to small ledges and take the groove behind the yew to below the bulge and then move right to finish as Hypotenuse (or top-out the bulging groove direct at HVD). The direct finish of the chimney is about HS 4a and has very loose rock so not recommended.

For Arachnid Cracks (HS 4a) I clipped the yew and pulled off some ivy at the crux (VS and not so great) . A good finish and worthy of HS 4a (easier, more fun and less suspect) is to bypass the crux a bit further left.

Get them while they are cleaner than normal!

But hurry - I also cleared the ivy off Arachnid Cracks when I climbed it last year, it doesn't take long to return...

My new recommended finish (from our first attempt at climbing Square Chimney) traverses below the most affected bit.  Its HS 4a that way, rather more fun and less suspect and vegetated above. Sometimes lines can be a bit too straight.. I prefer my climbs to folllow some natural climbing line rather than a geometric one.

Yes a great little crag. On a recent visit was particularly impressed with Flamingo Wall (HVS) engrossing climbing from start (a little bold) to finish.  Given 5a but thought could be 5b.  

Parking wise - If the little 'corner' parking (1 car) is full,  if you go about 100m NW of the start of the path you can park completely off the road on the grass (SW side of road) in the area of what looks like a wooden gate in the wall but is a permanent bit of fence.  

Steve

What a great thread this is! 

Haven't been there for at least 10 years so I'm excited for a return

Can't remember how I finished any of the routes round there, about time I had another look. 

Got inspired and paid a visit last week. Great spot - we'll be back for more! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2018/11/06/agden-rocher/

Off topic for the Rocher, but on topic for the bus fares at that time, early 70s.

For a under 16 year old, 2 pence to Fox House, a whole 4 Pence to Castleton.

Wow , just found this thread , camped there in the summer of 1975 with my mate from school , we hitched to sheffield ,from north london , and got bus 66 from Campo lane to the terminus at low bradfield . We found our way to the crag and pitched our tent at the campsite area , we stayed there for four weeks . Daily we would climb a route or three , we used to only see other climbers at weekends , occasionally one or two would come in the week . 

We had a great time ,loved the place , every eve , we'd walk down to low bradfield and drink in the New Inn ? , walking back via high bradfield , we would have another pint in the pub there before getting back to tent , then we would cook up some packeted food , chicken supreme or some such gloop , the plates and pan left outside would be cleaned by the sheep in the night ! 

We put up three routes , which we described and posted through a climbing shop in sheffield , it was a sunday , we did kind of cheat by top roping them first , the crag is great but needs care ! 

Gimli , The Crumbler and Armstrongs Eliminate , that was the hardest / daftest , we were both 15 year old schoolboys who had just finished our secondary education . As you can imagine it was a great adventure for us .

A guy turned up one day with a see through helmet and a chalk bag , soloing various routes , don't know what he made of us boys ? he however was very confident , we showed him our favourite routes and spent the afternoon mucking around , he wished us well ,Ed Drummond was his name , spoke with a american type twang . We never knew at the time he was a famous climber.  , nice guy ! 

We left at the end of august , i went to sea in merchant navy , so climbing was out the porthole for me , went back about nine years later and camped for a few days on my own , it didn't seem to have changed much , must revisit , this time i'll cycle that climb from low bradfield !! 

Got to say it's one of my favourite crags ,not busy , and great atmosphere, i'll have to re acquaint the pubs though !!

Dylan Fernley ,my buddy was Matt Armstrong , who sadly i've lost touch with , it was 44 years ago ! 

Great memories - thanks for that

Chris

Totally agree with Chris. Fantastic post!

You've beautifully caught that sense of innocence - of just going out and getting on with it.

What climbing is all about...

Mick

P.S. Particularly loved the bit about leaving the plates for the sheep to clean. I remember, in Donegal, leaving my mucky plate for the local sheepdog to lick clean. My mates insisted I'd get some dread disease. But am still here - well, just about!

HVS, E1 and E4, not bad for a couple of schoolboys!

one of the best things I have read in quite some time thanks for sharing your memories !!

It sounds like a rather wonderful idyllic summer, thanks for sharing your memories.

There's a little independent brewery in High Bradfield now, making really excellent beers.  The Nag's Head, a mile and a bit back along the road towards Sheffield, is their 'brewery tap' and it's definitely the best pub in the area these days.

http://bradfieldbrewery.com/

They've just opened another one on the main road in Deepcar, the King and Miller, handy for Wharncliffe.

Providing underrated crags with top quality pubs - you have to admire their work!

cheers mick , i'll have to visit the nags head , sounds like a cycling trip from north wales needs planning !  camp at the crag , drink i the nags head , do a few rides in the area , maybe a scramble or two ! 

I mind one night we came back late and cooked up some grub , the sheep were poking their heads into the tent wondering where the plates and pan were ! we thought it hilarious , never had to wash up , they would lick them spotless , no doubt as you say , folk would warn about infection , rubbish , did us no harm !!  

I remember beer was 25p a pint , get four for a pound , we never got asked our age in any pub ,even in sheffield , we thought we'd found paradise ! 

When thecricket was on in low bradfield they would open all day , whole district were there , drinking and watching cricket , proper sport in those circumstances! 

Another older climber who turned up one day , took us to sheffield in his van , he took us round his local pubs , we went back to low bradfield , drank till closing time , then foolishly went looking for a takeaway on the stockbridge road , the guy dozed off at the wheel , hit a parked car , which caught fire , my mate cut his face , i was in the back of the van with his two dogs and a huge bucket of giblets , we were all covered in the things , the owner of the car came out shouting , police appeared pretty quick , our friend was arrested , me and my mate were took to hospital ..... another one of life's little experiences... never saw the guy again , police took us back to agden rocher at some silly hour ! 

Climbers , they're all mad , some worse than others ! 

In replying to rudebwoy

Brilliant, get yourself over, beer is better than ever and the roads are like billiard tables courtesy of the tour de france and tour of Yorkshire.

Is that a different event from the Tour de Yorkshire or is it a bit of tarn stubbornness creeping in?

Neither, I put it down to Belgian Blue last night.

Excellent stuff, you can still spend the night up there ..low profile, no fires. Particularly enjoyed Crumbler, Armstrong's Eliminate was very bold, good leads!