/ Inapt route names
Lots of routes have names that relate to the nature of the route, but some turn out to be totally inapt.
Heather Wall (HVD 3c) is one. Though it has a short wall to start, most of the route lies up a slab, in fact a corner crack at the side of a slab with an angle probably less than 45 degrees. Not much Heather either.
Proud Corner (VS 4c) is another cracker. Called a corner but actually follows the complete opposite, an arete.
Any more examples?
There's lots of examples of irony in route names. Can't remember where (it's not on the logbooks), but there's a route called Pleasant Slab. It's an offwidth!
Maybe I'm missing some intended irony, but presumably Heather Wall once sported heather, and Proud Corner is an outward-facing corner, i.e. one that stands proud of the wall rather than is recessed into it. In the earlier days of describing rocks, this use of 'corner' was quite common.
The "Easy way down" at Wintours Leap.
Not actually an official climb, but I'm sure that it could warrant a grade. It's frightened the whatsit out of a number of people who get led down it.
> In reply to Rog Wilko
> Whoever named this had some funny ideas about what constitutes a roof.
> It is in fact a bloody awkward crack next to an awkwardly angled slab. Wear one B3 and one climbing shoe.
The slab is about the same angle as a roof no?
Coronation Street, Its not a street and there's no chickens on it.
Malbogies ... never seen a bad snotter on it
Charming Crack at Brimham doesn't look it!
> The Right Unconquerable (HVS 5a) is actually conquerable. As is the left.
The names are all to do with the history. They were called that in the 30s because they proved to be literally unconquerable. It was nearly 20 years, until higher standards were ushered in with Brown, before the names were proved incorrect. There is a very well-known Unclimbed Wall at Harrison's which was called that for the same reason.
It isn't! Charming Crack is horrendous, or at least it used to be, because it's (was) lined with vicious quartz crystals.
There is a deliberate misnomer at Joshua Tree called Friendly Hands, which looks from a distance like a perfect hand crack cutting through a slightly overhanging bulge. It is only when one gets up there that one finds it's actually a shallow, flared crack that will only take very insecure jams - and only then does one realise that the name is a joke to lure one up there!
But it's not as evil as Charming Crack!
Jim's Chimney on Helsby is a very technical and bold slab
Left Wall and Right Wall if you face outwards
Or upside down !
The Douglas Boulder must up high in the understatement ranking.
Then, of course there's always First Pinnalce Rib, which is actually the Second Pinnacle Rib and which may, or may not, be The Overlapping Rib on Tryfan.
If you face the crag its left and right Logical.
Hard what is hard ?
Easy Picking I'll second that although not he hardest route I've done but up there with the feel off it.
I can think of a number of similar examples. Compass Point and Etive Slabs descent routes being a case in point.
Kids: spelling is important. There is only one letter between decent route and descent route!
Profitofdoom is right. You've only "conquered" it if you top out with some degree of elegance. Nobody ever has or will, ergo: unconquerable
Well yes - I knew that!
I am trying to find the climb, isn’t there a boulder problem in Switzerland called Font 7A, but is in fact graded 8A?
much angry dry humping ensues.
> Profitofdoom is right. You've only "conquered" it if you top out with some degree of elegance.
You never conquer anything as a climber. The mountain or the route have just allowed you to succeed - this time.
Our Friday Night Video this week is a look at a bright young talent in British sport, trad and competition climbing: Jim Pope. Jim's climbing starts in the Lake District and catches up to his present day visit to Norway to sample some of the hardest...